Logo

Tilt Motor/Pump not lifting

Eddie327

Member
This system is or was lifting a 1969 Johnson 85. So my old original pump was working but has a stripped out thread port and not finding anyway to fix this I ordered a new 0172388 valve body assembly from this web site. I installed this pump filled with tilt oil and it lifted the motor maybe twice before it ceased to operate at all. I contacted Marine Engine and explained my issue and they recommended sending it back which I did and they refunded me. Not knowing what I was going to do next I made the decision and purchase a brand new aftermarket pump and motor which I installed today and filled with tilt/trim oil and this new setup has not lifted the motor not once unless I push up on the motor and it will raise if I help it up. I thought maybe I have air in the system so I raised and lowered it approximately 8 to 10 times even removing the filler plug in the case there was trapped air. It will lower just fine but it will not raise it at all unless I help lift it and when raised it seems to hold at least for the time I have messed with it. I had to put it back up so will see at a later time if it still in the raised position. Are the aftermarket motors and pumps just not up to the task or am I missing or overlooking something here for this not to be lifting at all.
This all started because of issues with the ports leaking and trying to tighten them up to stop the leaks and even on this new pump they are very tight but still having some issues with them leaking not that it matters that much now since it wont even lift the motor. The cylinder and lines are also brand new so at this point the whole tilt system if brand new and wont even attempt to lift the motor so what gives? The motor is not in any kind of bind because I can lift it by hand no problem. So on this aftermarket pump I am guessing there is no manual release like on my old original. I did loosen the two big allen head screws that you can see on the ends of the pump but the motor never let down from a raised position.
What is a good sealant or otherwise the use on the thread ports to get them to seal if I ever get this working again as it did? This listing for the pump states Johnson 85 H.P. 90 H.P. 115 H.P. 120 H.P. 130 H.P. 135 H.P. 150 H.P. so defiantly should not be a weight issue since mine is the smallest listed horsepower.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20231002_194030619 - Copy.jpg
    PXL_20231002_194030619 - Copy.jpg
    826.9 KB · Views: 35
  • PXL_20231002_194059146 - Copy.jpg
    PXL_20231002_194059146 - Copy.jpg
    617.7 KB · Views: 29
  • PXL_20231002_194109471 - Copy.jpg
    PXL_20231002_194109471 - Copy.jpg
    628 KB · Views: 28
  • PXL_20231002_194120451 - Copy.jpg
    PXL_20231002_194120451 - Copy.jpg
    820.1 KB · Views: 27
  • PXL_20231002_194138885 - Copy.jpg
    PXL_20231002_194138885 - Copy.jpg
    640.2 KB · Views: 29
not an expert i did have to replace my tilt trim motor tho and then the replacement came and i screwed the threads up because these hydraulic lines have no play in them lol so i had to replace the new one i bought with another one. after a few years of sitting i try to use it and it wouldn't work and was shorting out i was able to open it up and clean the connections on the motor and it work perfect after that thats my experience with tilt/trim motors so take my advice for what its worth lol.
i also had issues with bleeding the air out of the system it is just a process that takes patience up and down up and down fill the the reservoir up more up and down up and down just keep at it i think it will eventually work i think i just used loctite thread sealer and mabey some teflon tape on mine i also sprayed the outside with some clear flex seal to keep water out of the electrical components.
 
Yes, it takes a lot of bleeding to get all the air out of lines, cylinders and entire system. Have you ever done a brake job and had to replace a master cylinder? Lots of bleeding. While the motor was off and lines disconnected, probably all of the hydraulic fluid dranined out. So, now all the cylinders and lines are full of air. All you can do is add fluid a little at a time to completely fill up all of the components. I've never understood why they don't have a bleeder valve on these systems to help make the job easier, but I'm not aware of any tilt/trim system that has one.
 
It will raise the motor but only if I assist it. To me that does not seem like trapped air in the system but I could be wrong. But I did repeat this process approximately 10 times and could not add any more fluid as it was at the filler hole constantly. It will lower the motor each and every time but you only hear the motor run when in raise position with no attempt the raise but if you pull up on the motor then it will raise only as long as your taking some of the weight off. To me it just seems the pump is not capable of pumping enough pressure to raise motor by itself. My old original pump would raise the motor no problem but has stripped out threads.
 
Yep, you're right! If you're not able to get it working, the next step is to rebuild the pistons, since you must have fluid getting past the O-rings. Just re-reading your original post, and T/T pumps usually are only replaced when they stop running. If it's running, but not lifting, the go-to is the seals and 0-rings. Are your leaks just drips, or pressure leaks? Spraying out when attempting to lift?
 
All of this is BRAND NEW NEVER USED BEFORE pump and motor. The leaks seep around the tube fittings when trying to lift no really bad but enough to make it drip at times.
 
The motor IS a pump. I'm talking about the cylinders. The motor/pump pumps fluid into the cylinders to make the plunger go up and down. If the pump/motor is pumping, but nothing is moving up/down, the O-rings in the cylinder are probably worn and no allowing the iner plunger to go up and down.
 
Do you notice any fluid leaking?
Just the bit that seeps around the fittings on pump other than that no. I did that on the old pump but had no problem lifting motor. I kept snugging them up and that lead to the stripped threads and now to the pumps that don't lift motor any longer.
 
Make sure the pump motor is getting 12v+. Crack open the cylinder fittings until you get clear fluid and no air or bubbles.
 
Back
Top