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Tilt clutch

K

kountzelightdiesel

Contributing Member
With nothing better to do I sit and read this forum about problems I'm not likely to ever have but sometimes it sparks a new thought about my own issues.

On a stringer drive should the tilt down be a slow and controled fall?

This is something I am aware of on my boat so its not really a problem but I don't think its right either. When lowering my drive I just "bump" the switch several times to get it down "easy". Otherwise it will slam down tearing up God only knows what.

These days I'm not the only one driving the boat so it is something I may want to address.

Thanks in advance
 
Mine is the same. Down really quickly, and up nearly as fast.

When I had a old battery, it was slower, but now I use an Optima, it is like it is on steroids.

The first time I used the tilt, I went around the stern to see if I had done some damage, and expected to see the leg laying on the ground.

Now it is a case of tap the switch, and gently raise it and even more gently lower it.

I have even considered limiting the voltage to the motor, but not sure if it could damage the windings, as there are no replacements readily available here. But, still thinking about it.

What were they like new? I don't think the factory would have wanted them to be that quick.

Bruce.
 
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Yeah Bruce I don't think that is the way it is suppose to be as long as eveyone is aware of it and is careful I guess its ok.

Its more like a freefall I haven't even looked at it but I would think it would be more like some hoists work where gravity actually lowers it and the motor just eases off of the brake. Basically if it falls faster than the motor it tightens the brake slowing it down again. I don't know just a thought.
 
Going down when the boat is in the water is what i think they designed it for.

Cause mine almost floats down, and when in the water coming up is faster.
 
Mine doesn't matter if it is in or out of the water.

When going down, if I keep the finger on the button, boy, the bang can be heard across the bay. Going up is almost as fast.

Could it be that the modern 12 volts is "better" than the old 12 Volts?:rolleyes:

Bruce.
 
I wondered the same thing about the speed but then again my drive is a 85 in a 86 boat. Lasted all these years made like a tank.

I also wondered where i could put a rubber bumper besides the ones on there ,
to absorb some of the slam when it goes down maybe someone else got a idea ?
 
When I first got my boat the floor was rotten and the stringers under the front engine mounts, it didn't have the cover over the engine either so you can imagine the suprise when she hit bottom and the engine jumped off the floor 6 inches.

That was one of those moments when knowing what I do now you roll her out to the road and put a for sale sign on her and let the next unsuspecting "fix anything kid" deal with it.

But lesson learned the first thing I do when I look at boats is jump up and down on the floor!
 
Gents,
I'm in need of some advice - have an 84 OMC 3.8 with the older style tilt with a quandrant gear that runs on a pinion from the tilt motor. went to take the boat out yesaterday and couldn't tilt up - did hear a clicking when Iflipped the switch up and down so there's a power signal but the tilt motors not turning - id there a relay or something that needs replacing? A marina told me that the motor itself sometimes sticks (brushes need cleaning )and tapping on the motor can sometimes free it up. I had to take the quadrant gear off and tie the outdrive up to trailer it. ironically the trim function is doing the same thing - and the trim is a separate hydraulic setup as opposed to hte newer drives where the tilt trim function are on the same set up.
any thoughts?​
 
Saying that it happens with two different parts, indicates to me that there is a contact/corrosion problem within the electrical wiring.

The Clicking you are hearing is the Solenoids operating the internal switch, but if there is no current flowing past the contacts when they are closed, then the problem is there.

The way the Solenoid works is by creating a mechanical switch that is operated by an electro magnet that presses the switch plunger into contact with two heavy electrical contacts at one end of the Solenoid Body, creating the main circuit for the power to continue from the battery to the unit requiring the power.

I would be removing and reconnecting the electric cables and ensuring that each contact is totally clean.

Bruce.
 
run a cable straight to the solenoids for the tilt, and one to the trim. they will bypass the ones that run thru the harness won't hurt a thing.

You read my post on fixing the tilt?
 
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