Tiller handle problem on Evinrude 6HP 2 stroke- Won't stay on idle.

[Islander68]

Hello everybody!

I apologise in advance if, as a newbie on the forum, I should have introduced myself in a dedicated section before posting any new thread b.
What brings me here is a little problem I’m experimenting with an Evinrude 6HP 2 stroke I purchased second-hand last year bundled up with a 14ft wooden boat. I was happy to pay the price advertised for the boat and the seller, as a goodwill gesture, added the outboard for free… Needless to say I was pleasantly surprised when I tried it at home and it started on the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] pull!

I’ve been using it for inshore lobster fishing in the north of Scotland for a few weeks and I can’t seem to keep it on idle. I don’t think it’s fuel or carburettor related (but then, it might…:rolleyes because I can keep the outboard on idle as long as I keep holding on the tiller grip on the “Slow” setting; when I let go the grip, the handle seems to slowly creep into the “Stop” zone and the outboard conks out! The only way to keep the engine running in neutral while pulling the lobster pots is by setting the handle on the “Shift” setting: the outboard doesn’t stall but it’s a bit sickening having the outboard on high revs in neutral… (and can’t be great for fuel consumption!)

I also have been trying to find out what model of outboard I have by checking the number model guide and other websites and I have to say that I have made no progress whatsoever!!!
The numbers on the ID plaque are:

Model No. 69B66E

Serial No. B036439

Evinrude Motors Bruges, Belgium

I would very much appreciate any help or advice you can offer!
Thanks!

 

[racerone]

post pictures.

 

[Islander68]

post pictures.

Hi Raceone!
Thanks, I'll take a few picts this afternoon and try and shoot a little video to show you the issue.

 

[joereeves]

69B66E......

6 = hp
9 = 1969
B = Manufactured in Belgium
66 = ??
E = Evinrude

Perhaps the nylon friction block is missing from within the tiller handle, part #303282.

 

[vics]

Hi Raceone!
Thanks, I'll take a few picts this afternoon and try and shoot a little video to show you the issue.

We know what you mean!

I have the similar trouble with my 1984 6 HP Yachtwin. PITA in a sailing boat! although I can adjust the idle speed so that it does not stop. Just wont stay set at a fast idle.

Check what Joe says above and its associated spring, #81 and #82 in this diagram

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...anufacturer=Evinrude&section=Lower+Unit+Group

Mine is very different It does not have the friction block but 8 Hp models have a clamp ! Had to improvise a friction washer in the linkages on mine.


Dunno where you get spares in Scotland but I order mine from Oakley Marine ( aka Outboards Direct ) in Brighton http://www.outboards-direct.co.uk/

 

[fdrgator]

Most common cause of that is ignition coils dragging on the flywheel magnets. Easy fix, move the coils back till they are even with the machined edges on the posts they are mounted on.

 

[joereeves]

If, as FDGator suggests, the magnets are hitting the flywheel..... Notice the slight bevel that exists where the metal portion of the coils sit upon their aluminum seat..... The upright metal portion of the coils should be aligned with the top inside portion of those bevels.

 

[Islander68]

69B66E......

6 = hp
9 = 1969
B = Manufactured in Belgium
66 = ??
E = Evinrude

Perhaps the nylon friction block is missing from within the tiller handle, part #303282.

Hi Joereeves,
Thank you very much for the info regarding the outboard and the year of manufacture. 1969! I wasn't expecting it to be that old!
As far as the nylon friction block, no sign of it anywhere in the handle!!! I've just ordered a new one and will see what happens once fitted...
Thanks again for you help!

We know what you mean!

I have the similar trouble with my 1984 6 HP Yachtwin. PITA in a sailing boat! although I can adjust the idle speed so that it does not stop. Just wont stay set at a fast idle.

Check what Joe says above and its associated spring, #81 and #82 in this diagram

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...anufacturer=Evinrude&section=Lower+Unit+Group

Mine is very different It does not have the friction block but 8 Hp models have a clamp ! Had to improvise a friction washer in the linkages on mine.


Dunno where you get spares in Scotland but I order mine from Oakley Marine ( aka Outboards Direct ) in Brighton http://www.outboards-direct.co.uk/

Hi Vics,
Thank you for your help too. Sounds like the culprit could be that friction washer! Just ordered one and need to wait for it to reach us in the North of Scotland and we'll take it from there! It looks like Outboards Direct deliver to Orkney too.

Most common cause of that is ignition coils dragging on the flywheel magnets. Easy fix, move the coils back till they are even with the machined edges on the posts they are mounted on.

If, as FDGator suggests, the magnets are hitting the flywheel..... Notice the slight bevel that exists where the metal portion of the coils sit upon their aluminum seat..... The upright metal portion of the coils should be aligned with the top inside portion of those bevels.

Hi Fdrgator and Joe,
I'll bear this in mind and if the problem persists after I've fitted the friction washer, I'll have a go at sorting out the coils... I'm no expert in outboards and I'll need to learn a bit more about the procedure before tackling it!:rolleyes:
Thanks again to you all!

 

[joereeves]

Hi Joereeves, Thank you very much for the info regarding the outboard and the year of manufacture. 1969! I wasn't expecting it to be that old!

The problem and confusion lies with the fact that the Model number being Belgium 69B66E... it is somewhat different from our (US) codes. For instance, with us... in 1969 the model number is 6902 and 6903.... in 1979 the model number is 6904 and 6905... and that brings up a guessing game as to which one would pertain to you.

As you can see... you may very well have a 1979 model instead of a 1969.

If the hood has not been repainted, pictures of it (front, sides, rear) would tell the story as the paint scheme of the hoods are never duplicated. Each year has its own individual paint design. If you could get some pictures of just the hood uploaded, that would be great.

 

[Islander68]

Hi Joe,
Thank you for spending time and giving some thoughts about my old outboard! I understand the issue of the Belgium codes vs the US codes!
I'll go down the beach later and take pictures of the hood which, I believe, is in its original attire!
You really have experts here on this forum who can tell the model by the paintwork!

 

[vics]

The problem and confusion lies with the fact that the Model number being Belgium 69B66E... it is somewhat different from our (US) codes. For instance, with us... in 1969 the model number is 6902 and 6903.... in 1979 the model number is 6904 and 6905... and that brings up a guessing game as to which one would pertain to you.

As you can see... you may very well have a 1979 model instead of a 1969.

If the hood has not been repainted, pictures of it (front, sides, rear) would tell the story as the paint scheme of the hoods are never duplicated. Each year has its own individual paint design. If you could get some pictures of just the hood uploaded, that would be great.

Hi Joe

What you said ( highlighted) rang a little bell

It is infact a 1979 model!

see http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/page/607032

and

http://web.archive.org/web/20020124182028/http://www.evinrude.com/docktalk/modref/modelyr.html

Still the same friction block and spring in the tiller handle but a cdi rather than points ignition . I guess the comments about the flywheel magnets hitting the coil is still relevant

I note also that the '79 model has a stop button and an idle speed adjustment screw, neither of which the '69 model appears to have. It should therefore be possible for Islander68 to adjust the idle speed so that it does not "conk out" as he puts it.

Still the same throttle linkages as the'69 model so no point in me posting details of what I did with my '84 model.

 

[Islander68]

Hi Vics,
Thanks very much for finding out the model of my outboard and the year! Great detective work!
Both links you mention point exactly to the same date. Any idea what the letter E at the end of the model number means? I'm glad it's the same friction block on the '79 model as I've ordered it last night and it's been dispatched this morning!
I'll wait till I fit the friction block, then I'll play with idle speed adjustment screw to try and prevent the "conking out"!
I'm attaching photos of the hood as a matter of interest:

 

[vics]

Ive known about those two sites for a long time but it needed Joe to jog my memory about them.

Make a note of them, esp the second one, then when Joe and I are in the anchorage where the wind always blows from a favourable direction, fish always bite and outboards never go wrong you will be the one to impress people.

I guess the E is just a suffix but always quote the full model number when ordering parts.

Similar colour scheme but different style to my '84 model

Keep an eye on the cooling. Consider changing the pump impeller sooner rather than later if you dont know when it was last changed.

See the manual at http://www.************/lib/evinrude/manuals/1971-1989johnsonevinrude.html#/0 before you tackle the water pump to see how to disconnect the shift rod ( and more importantly how to reconnect it correctly) Also how to guide the pin at the top of the drive shaft that supports the seal up there, through the slot it has to come through

Better still buy the proper manual from Outboardbooks.com

 

[racerone]

Decals appear to be a 78 model.

 

[joereeves]

Hmmm.... Yeah, Racerone is correct, something is still amiss. In going through my old new engine brochures... here are the 1978 and the 1979 hoods 6hp (engines).

1978 6hp

1979 6hp

 

[Islander68]

Still the same friction block and spring in the tiller handle but a cdi rather than points ignition . I guess the comments about the flywheel magnets hitting the coil is still relevant

Good morning Vics!
I received the friction block yesterday afternoon and fitted it straight away. Engine is purring away and "she's running like a sweetie" as Orcadians say!
Still a little issue on idle but now the handle stays in place when you leave it and doesn't creep constantly towards the stop setting. I'll fiddle about with the idle adjustment screw to fine tune it. A big thank you, Vics, for suggesting that the nylon friction block could be the issue!

Make a note of them, esp the second one, then when Joe and I are in the anchorage where the wind always blows from a favourable direction, fish always bite and outboards never go wrong you will be the one to impress people.

Thanks for the tip!

Decals appear to be a 78 model.

Hmmm.... Yeah, Racerone is correct, something is still amiss. In going through my old new engine brochures... here are the 1978 and the 1979 hoods 6hp (engines).

1978 6hp
View attachment 18376
1979 6hp
View attachment 18377

Thanks Joe and Racerone for looking into it. Could there have been an overlap between the 2 models, such as a '79 model fitted with a '78 hood... I suppose there's always the possibility that the hood was purchased as a spare later on...

 

[joereeves]

Thanks Joe and Racerone for looking into it. Could there have been an overlap between the 2 models, such as a '79 model fitted with a '78 hood... I suppose there's always the possibility that the hood was purchased as a spare later on...

That happens... hood stolen, replaced... some shop mixed a couple up... overboard/replaced... BUT close enough!!

 

[timguy]

Food for thought as I read this story, but this wasn't the case here. Coils set a bit too close will drag the stator clockwise, thereby slowing down the motor speed. On older, worn out motors, this can be more common as the stator plate bushing wears.