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Three codes, things are getting worse.

B

Bluecollerboater

Contributing Member
Alright let me bring everyone up to speed. I had a remanned long block put in my boat. The original engine was a volvo 5.7 Gipmda. Before the remanned block I had no codes but it wouldn't idle below 1000 rpm. Found no compression in #3 due to cracked piston. Got boat back and it would not idle below 1000 rpm still. I read codes on engine and they came up 42 and 43 which are electronic spark timing and electronic spark control. Told the mechanic it still would not idle right. He took it back and told me it was the map sensor. When I got it home I read the codes again. This time I got code 33 which is the map sensor and 42 and 43 again. I looked at the map sensor and the mechanic cut the vacuum line to it and plugged the end going to the throttle body. It did idle a lot better. So I ordered a new map and knock sensor and put them in and cleared all codes. All three came back and my timing is all messed up. At idle(650-700) it's at 22 degrees at 1500 it's 30 degrees and at 2000 it's 40 degrees. I lowered rpm very quickly and I know that is way to far advanced. My compression is good 165-170 in all holes. I am not sure what to try next
 
Thanks kimcrwbr1 I am on my way out to test wiring and grounds in about 20 min. I basically screwed in the knock sensor. How should I have put in the knock sensor? How many grounds do you think I am looking at here?
 
Yes the old knock sensor and new both had thread sealer on them. I only screwed it in by hand then a half turn more with a wrench. My engine only has one knock sensor. when I checked my timing it was not in test mode. I checked it at idle , 1500 and 2000 rpm and again not in test mode.
 
EST = electronic spark timing. Everyone has gone to this these days. :confused:

As you know.... there is no mechanical advance to this style ignition distributor.

Since we cannot create a spark event any sooner than it is initiated by the triggering device (just plain physics), the system actually delays the spark event via electronic circuitry and algorythms predicated by the control module.
(the distributor housing's position is such that somewhere near full + advance is offered to the control module)

The control module (again, via electronic circuitry and algorythms) has no choice but to create a spark event delay.
One delay would be for BASE or Initial Advance for low rpm operation.
The delay is then varied according to engine RPM and other engine data..... such as temperature, knock sensor input, etc.

All of this is achieved by electronics... and it can be a very good system when all is working as it should.


Call me old school.... but I am not yet quite on board with EST.
If you loose a module.. or if the module goes foul..... you're pretty much done.


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So Ricardo do you think my module is causing these problems. I figured it was ok because it is advancing. I never thought maybe it is not advancing correctly.
 
Bluecollerboater said:
So Ricardo do you think my module is causing these problems. I figured it was ok because it is advancing. I never thought maybe it is not advancing correctly.
Click to expand...
Hard to say..... but this does not appear to be correct:
At idle(650-700) it's at 22 degrees, at 1500 it's 30 degrees, and at 2000 it's 40 degrees.
Click to expand...
40* at 2k rpm while under load will definitely cause Detonation.



If you take it to a shop, ask for and be willing to pay for proper diagnostics that will truly identify the problem.
Ask for a quote... not an estimate.
Only then have the work performed.

If their diagnostics were correct.... your problem is solved.
If their diagnostics were incorrect.... you should refuse to pay for the unnecessary work and parts.



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