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That time of year again ...

I

IPukeOnYourShoes

New member
... when idiot new boat owners find out their engine blocks are destroyed from not correctly winterizing.

I guess I have a question for the forum. Is there any Hail Mary solution that can seal a cracked block I should try?

If you're bored you can read more of my story now.

At the end of the last year I bought a well maintained running boat.

I have a 28 foot Doral Citation 1987. The engine is a 5.7 MerCruiser and an Alpha One outdrive.

I tried storing the boat in my driveway. I purchased and installed a new bilge heater. However
after I got done with all my winterizing steps the city told me to get rid of my boat. I then took the boat to a marina for winter storage. I didn't think I was able to plug the boat in for shore power. I ran antifreeze in the interior plumbing and removed my peacock valves on the water jacket. I removed some blocking sand. Unfortunately someone told me that's all I need to do. I should have hooked up the water muffs and ran antifreeze through the whole block.

So just after I paid the summer marina fee I put the boat in the water. The engine runs, but there is significant water coming out of the bottom of the engine and this water is oily. The dipstick oil is chocolate milk. The top of the engine gets really hot even though all my instrument panel gauges are good. I'll attach a video of this operational experience.

So it's likely I have a cracked block. Plug and play engine prices range from $8,500 to $10,500 for the same engine from MichganMotorz.com

The boat sits in the water at the marina waiting area. I will need to move the boat back on the trailer. I don't own a truck so every time I move the truck it costs me $50.

Seems like the only people that own boats are rich people and mechanics. Not IT industry working dads like me.
 
Snake oil sales people will try to pitch there stuff but I've never seen anything economical that will resolve the issue you describe...it typically requires sizable figures depending on the specific path taken...and dont forget the ever increasing backlog the service shops have...or that labor.
 
should have been 2 block drains 2 to 4 manifold /riser drains, and possible a drain at the ps cooler.
If you did all those then you should not have had an issue with winterizing
 
I’d suggest a remanufactured long block. Being a cheapskate, I have done this using automotive suppliers rather that marine. Verify that they use stainless steel head gaskets and brass freeze plugs. Or just change them out yourself.
 
Here is My write up on winterizing a V8 & V6. Use it or not, its up to you. If done correctly your will never need a new engine again.

Winterization for Mercruiser V8 or V6.​

Note 1: My method below describes how I winterize a marine engine. I personally do not change the engine oil/filter or outdrive gear oil in the fall. Have not for 30+ years.



Note 2 : The outdrive when it sits all winter in the cold, seals can go bad regardless if pressure checked in the fall or the gear oil is water free. If the drive is not serviced properly in the spring the gear oil could possibly leak causing extensive damage.

Proper outdrive Spring Service includes Drain and pressure check and check gimbal bearing and grease any fittings needing grease and new O-rings as supplied in gasket kit and grease the splined drive shaft and the two o-rings on shaft.





My winterization procedure: Done on trailer.

RAW WATER cooled only (not closed/fresh water cooling systems)​



Add appropriate amount of Stabil to gas tank.

With Drive Down and allowed to sit for at least 2 hours so if any water present will flow to bottom of outdrive.

Remove lower unit oil fill plug and check for water contamination. If oil looks good reinstall plug. If oil is milky or water comes out, outdrive must be serviced/repaired by (pressure checking) to find/replace bad seal before winter storage.

Hook up water hose to ear muffs and attach to outdrive and make sure outdrive is lowered almost all the way down.

Turn on water at hose.

Start engine and let run for ~30 minutes at ~ 1000 rpms. (this allows Stable added to gas tank to reach Carb)

Turn engine off.

Turn water off and remove ear muffs. (leave outdrive down for now)

Remove engine block water drain plugs, they are on the right side and left sides of engine near center of block and very close to oil pan, Typically Bronze material.(Could be two piece, Single plug, or Plastic winged screw type)

Once the plug(s) have been removed, Poke thru with small screw driver to loosen up all cast and rust until the water flows out in a steady stream.

Remove the plugs in the exhaust manifolds, they are under the manifold ¾ of the way back towards the back of engine, poke it clear until the water comes out in a steady stream. If Plastic winged type remove them and make sure water flows good.

Remove the two water hoses in the front of the engine where it attaches to the top of thermostat housing that go to Elbows. If No hoses go to elbows, Remove the two hoses at thermostat housing that go to bottom of Exhaust Manifolds

Remove the incoming water hose where it connects to the thermostat housing (the one coming in on the right hand side (oil filter side) that comes from the transom and goes thru the power steering cooler.

Remove the LARGE hose that is U shaped from the engine water pump to the thermostat housing (remove from the thermostat housing side only) and after engine block has drained from the two block drain plugs removed earlier, twist the hose down towards the bilge to drain any remaining water out of hose.

When the water has drained out of the block and the manifolds reinstall the plugs. DO NOT over tighten them just good and snug.

Have 1 gallon of RV antifreeze ready, pour ¼ of it into the two hoses that go to elbows or exhaust manifolds and it will go directly into the exhaust elbows/manifold.

Pour ¼ of the RV antifreeze into the incoming water hose (SLOWLY) and make sure you hear/see it come out the outdrive intake ports!!!
This back flushes the incoming water thru the power steering cooler and the transom assembly thru outdrive (you may have to raise the hose up several inches to allow the antifreeze to flow).

Pour the rest of the RV antifreeze into the LARGE hose that was removed from the thermostat housing, this goes straight into the engine.

Reinstall all the hoses and tighten the clamps.

Raise the outdrive to trailer position.

Disconnect/Remove battery and you are done!!

Note 3: When outdrive is in the down position it is self draining.

This applies to most V8 amd V6 cylinder Mercruiser Carbed engines RAW WATER cooled only (not closed cooling systems)
 
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