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syncing the carbs?

With cam backed off so that it is not touching the carburetor throttler roller...... make sure that the throttle linkage between any carburetor does not apply pressure to any other carburetor. That is to make sure that all carburetors open and close at the same time, and that all throttle butterflies are absolutely closed at idle.

Make sure that the throttle butterflies just start to open when the scribe mark on the cam aligns dead center with the throttle cam roller..... not before or after.

Unless you've changed the cam adjustment between the vertical throttle arm and the metal cam, the above should do it.
 
whaler i would like to get everything where it should be before i try to start the motor again. im not gonna try to start it on the stand. too many variablesto worry about im gonna put it on the boat to start it
 
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I see that you have a few posts entered, one of which pertains to timing. The following may be of interest to you.

(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)
NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.
The full spark advance can be adjusted without have the engine running at near full throttle as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.
It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem (fire) but it could happen.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

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Also...... If you're thinking of starting/running that V6 on a test stand of some kind, make absolutely sure that the stand is immoveable. Otherwise the torque of that V6 will have that stand flipping all over the place and the teeth of the flywheel will put you in a grave rather quickly.

 
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