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Success!!! So far...

Yes, I'll try to drop the idle once I get it in the water and in gear. It seems a bit shaky to me. What causes that?

I advanced the throttle with the prop disengaged a couple of times just for a few seconds. First time it backfired a lot, second time it seemed to go fine. I'm curious to see how it acts in the water, but it's 17 degrees outside today....

I'm considering doing a sea foam treatment before I put it away for the Winter. I've never done that before but considering the condition of the engine when I bought it and the crap that I've found as I disassembled it, I'm thinking there is carbon build up. What do you guys think about doing that? Is it worth it?

Is there anything else I should do while it is "apart"? Any gaskets I should change that would help the performance etc.?


Thanks for all of the help from the forum.
Rob
 
Kimcrwbr1 - Setting timing is something I haven't done or figured out how to do yet.... I need to find a good resource to learn about that.

Interesting what you mentioned about the carb... Of all the things I've replaced, I didn't replace the carb gasket, for some reason it didn't come in the kit I ordered, so I used the old one. I did order a few though and I just got them yesterday, so I will replace it today. I'll pay close attention to how tight the catb is, but the nuts are kind of awkward to get to so I don't think I over-tightend it.

That engine in the video you linked sounds to be idling at about the same RPM as mine, or at least close. It does seemed steadier though. I thought you weren't supposed to spin the prop out of the water like that.......

Thanks,
Rob
 
It does look a little shaky. As has been suggested I would try "tweaking" the timing and make sure the linkages are set correctly. Then tweak the low speed setting (after the other items are done).

If you still find it a little shaky AND the coils are old or original you may want to consider chucking 50'ish bucks for a couple of new Sierra coils. They will really smooth it out (higher voltage than OEM).

To clean out the "cooties" I use a Merc product called "Powertune" - comes in a spray can - essentially does the same thing as Seafoam (as far as the cleaning part goes) but you spray it right into the carb throat with the motor running (good directions on the can).

It's my "weapon of choice" when I bring motors out of storage after being layed up for the winter - cleans out everything but the seals and the metal - you would be surprised the gunk that comes out of even a well cared for motor...
 
Thanks for the tips... When you say "make sure the linkages are set correctly", are you talking about the throttle connection? I don't have it hooked up to anything right now the remote shift is disconnected.

Any recommendations on a good online reference for working with timing?

Thanks,
Rob
 
There is the wire (rod) that goes up to the base of the trigger plate, a couple of stop screws on the throttle etc.

Sorry, it has totally slipped my mind what motor we are talking about here. I may have a pdf file for the synchronization/timing of it that I could pass along to you (if I have it)....
 
Sorry, brain is back in gear - this is the 1987, 25 horse...

Drop me an email ([email protected]) - make the subject the motor (25 horse) or the like so "I have a clue" :) and I'll send you a pdf file on the "link/sync" for your motor...
 
Did this fix the coughing issue or the leak or both?
These guys have me doing all the seals on my 89'. I finally have all the parts, so you inspired me to finish it off this weekend.
Yours sounds better than mine.
 
Jim, I was able to eliminate the cough by increasing the idle mix, but to do so I had turned the idle mix screw about 5-6 times and the engine was idling way too high. After replacing the lower oil seal (and the wear sleeve), there is no cough and I'm able to get to what seems like a reasonable idle without the cough. The idle mix screw is only turned out 1-2 turns. So I think there was definitely an issue with air getting in through the lower seal.

The leak was something different. There was a pin hole on one of the chambers on the bottom of the engine block, that pin hole was allowing water to escape from the water passage and come out that hole. I sealed that up with some silicone sealant from both sides. I also sprayed the base gasket with WD40 silicone sealant before reassembling. I think if the gasket is doing it's job, water shouldn't be getting to that chamber in the first place. Either way, the leak is gone at least for now. There are some pictures of the hole in another thread.

Good luck with yours.
Rob
 
Yep - Sierra 18-5186 - after market replacement for a whack of Merc coils. List for less than half the price of OEM.

I'm not fond of alot of aftermarket items, but this is one of the exceptions - better than OEM...
 
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