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Storage of spare leg

kiwibrian

New member
"I just picked up a complete 2

"I just picked up a complete 270T leg and transom shield (~US$300) for spare parts. Crysler bellhousing completeley toasted, but my boat came with a good spare Volvo one anyway. What is the best way to store the leg, separate from the shield and store standing up, or lying down? Bottom of skeg fairly worn but the rest is in mint condition. Any advice much appreciated. Thanks, Brian."
 
Nice score!

I would drain t


Nice score!

I would drain the oil and inspect it. Make sure there is no trace of water. Refill with the proper amount of oil. Then I would fabricate a nice outdrive stand from 2x4's. I suspect it would be easiest to separate the leg from the TS.
 
"Thanks Mike. Bought on our eq

"Thanks Mike. Bought on our equivalent of ebay; with the economic downturn
sad.gif
there was not a lot of interest so good for me
happy.gif
. The thing to remember is the value of the parts for me, not the little I paid for it. The guy selling it does replacement Mercury sternlegs, said Volvo didn't break enough to make a living out of
biggrin.gif
.

With the total weight I thought 'divide and conquer' might be in order. The oil was checked by a mechanic, but I'll replace it to make sure. A frame with a slot for the exhaust/cavitation plate should be easy to knock up.

Thanks again, Brian"
 
""Depending" on where

""Depending" on where you store it... I made a real minimalist work/storage stand for use in my shed which has 2 x 4 vertical studs... At an appropriate height (in my case the exact height of my saw horse plus half the width of a "2x4") I drilled a hole crossways big enough to clear a six inch long 1/4" carriage bolt. I cut two pieces of 2 x 4 about a foot longer than the front to back distance of my 280 drive's cav plate. I drilled a hole in the both ends of each located so that when I bolted them, one each side of the wall stud, that it was free to swing. I put a second 8" bolt thru the holes at the other end. If you have a strong friend, the next part is simple, otherwise what I did was:
1)tie one end of a 3/8 nylon line to a handy rafter centered above my "fixture".
2)I ran that line thru one of the yoke pivot holes and then over the rafter and then back down and thru the pivot hole on the other side of the yoke and then back over the rafter...
Voila...This gave me a lifting line with a 2:1 advantage. I lifted the drive until it was about the proper height and tied the bitter end of the line off to the rafter. Clamp drive just below cav plate between the 2x4's. Since I only wanted a work jig, I rested the end of the 2x4 at the outside end on a saw horse. One could for a winter store:
1) leave a saw horse there
2) Tie a 3/8 line from the bolt at the outside end to the rafter (this freaks out the casual visitor for some reason...)
3) Cut a piece of 2x4 to go between the horizontal clamping 2x4 that holds the drive at the outside end, down at an angle towards the floor and bolt it to the wall stud.

Be sure to put double nuts on the bolts, jammed with a pair of wrenched."
 
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