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steering hood bushing

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farmermike

Member
Mine has the two allen heads. They came out easily. I was able to move it about five degrees one way then ten the other and now it doesn't want to move any. What is the secret? A clear photo of the bushing would help but I haven't found any.
 
If you have the double bolt helmet pin, and if that pin has two additional threaded holes in it, you will first clean the threaded holes out (spray them and blast with compressed air), then run lubricated bolts into each threaded hole.
This will "jack" the pin out of it's recessed area.

Some were metric (look closely), and some were 1/4" NC.
Make sure that the jack bolts have long enough threads so that they will extend through and press against the transmission clamping collar.

Use grade #8 bolts.



If your double bolt helmet pin does not have the two jack thread holes, you will need to be creative.


NOTE: make dang sure that the 3/8" NC helmet pin cap screws are not too long. In other words, don't get them mixed up!
If they are too long, they will break out the bottom of the threaded holes and open the interior up to water intrusion.

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Thanks, Only the very bottom of the holes were threaded so I didn't see that.
Also when I got the transmission off the oil smelled like gear oil, I thought it was supposed to be 30 wt.
 
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Yes..... 30W for an s/p drive if in cold water..... and 40W if in warm Florida waters.
If gear oil was used it was most likely done by a Merc mechanic who was unaware of the 30W requirement.

Again… If this was gear oil you may have sling or pump damage.
 
Slinger pump....... not sling pump.

The slinger pump impeller is driven by one or two spring pins.
Heavy gear oil places too much load on the impeller and pins. This can cause the pins to shear off. If they do shear, you will have lost the pumping action that pushes the cooler gear oil up for transmission cooling!
 
Thanks, I think I was smelling the grease that came past the rear seal. The oil that came out doesn't smell or pour like gear oil.
I will be running it in a tank and will check transmission temp.
 
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farmermike said:
Thanks, I think I was smelling the grease that came past the rear seal.
You mean grease that had been expelled from the PDS bearings?

The oil that came out doesn't smell or pour like gear oil.

I will be running it in a tank and will check transmission temp.
Running the engine with the drive submerged in a tank of water will not place enough load on the gears to create any substantial rise in transmission temperature.
The method for checking to see if the slinger pump impeller is OK, will be to pull the prop shaft and bearing carrier out. Once out, you will see the die cast impeller.
It must be indexed to the "driven" gear.
If it can be turned against the driven gear, the pins have sheared off.
Click to expand...
 
farmermike said:
Looks like all I need is 2 o rings, 2 shaft seals and 1 or 2 pins.
Thanks for the expert advice.
Click to expand...


If you have removed the transmission, you will need 4 O-rings when going back together.

.... oil drain back tube O-ring
.... larger bearing O-ring
.... dip stick O-ring
.... drain plug O-ring


If you are replacing the main drive gear seal, you will need 1 seal and 1 or 2 O-rings, depending on which transmission this is.

If you are replacing the eccentric piston seal, you will need 1 seal and 1 O-ring.

If you are checking to see if the single prop drive slinger pump is OK, you will need 2 prop-shaft bearing carrier O-rings.


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