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stator? 1973 65hp

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keith3232

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I have a 73 65hrs johnson powershift 2. It will run at slow throttle, but when I try to speed up it doesn't go in gear. It'll rev up like it is but I go nowhere. Had a local mechanic look over the mechanical componets(fine), he told me I burnt up the stator using a to large 12 v battery! ??? My battery is 75 amp, 550 cca. What do you think.. And what lower unit oil do I use for this. He said its not an electic shift.. ???
 
Re: stator?

If this engine has functioned properly in the past, and now when you increase the throttle, the engine races up but the boat slows down..... that is usually due to the hub within the propeller slipping. Try another propeller.

From what you've said, the stator has nothing to do with your problem..... and 12 volts is 12 volts regardless of the ampere rating. If on the other hand, you threw 24 volts at the engine, then yes that would cause some damage.

The 1973 65hp model has what is called a Shift Assist lower unit.... a mechanical solenoid unit whose change in position via the shift cable linkage changes passageways in a oil pump.... no, it is not electrical.

Check the prop for slipping by removing the prop nut, then marking the hub and prop with a magic marker, replace the prop nut. Then water test it and hope it acts up as it did before. Remove the nut again and observe the markings. If they are out of line, the prop hub is slipping and will require rehubbing by a reliable propeller repair shop.
 
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Re: stator?

That makes sense, so what lower unit oil do I use?, now sometimes when I go into full throttle it'll die. Is it related or another issue?
 
Re: stator?

Use Premium Blend, also known as Type C. This is needed due to the oil pump being in the gearcase, available at your local dealership.

Dying out at full throttle sometimes? At the moment, don't have a clue. Will ned more info.
 
Re: stator?

Ill try to test hud this week. Also, before the issues came up when I would go into gear it would hit real hard, I was told that that was normal for these motors. Now it doesn't hit hard at all. ???
 
Re: stator?

You will be told a lot of thing by dealers. After all they are trying to make some money off you.---------Lots and lots of stories out there. If the motor is idling it should shift smoothly.----------Shifting should be done with a quick firm motion( no granny shifting )--------------The shift system used an oil pump to provide pressure to a hydraulic servo valve. When the cable moves the valve it provides pressure to the piston in the valve to move the clutch dog.-------Quite a good system.
 
Re: stator?

ok, so i went to do the pull the propeller and noticed the nut was fairly loose, another forum post said it should be tight, if so could this be causing the original problem?
 
Re: stator?

NO---------Prop is driven by the spline.--------Hub in the prop might be slipping.-------------------Prop is made of an outer portion and a hub connected by friction via rubber between the two.
 
Re: stator?

Put a mark on the outer portion and a mark near the shaft.-------------------Run the thing and see if the marks move relative to each other !-----The prop is not a one piece item. ------Look closely and you will see.
 
Re: stator?

Usual method of tightening the prop nut is to simply tighten it securely, then back it off to the first cotter pin hole.

Propellers are a three (3) piece component.... a bronze splined hub in your case matched to the propshaft splines, then vaulcanized rubber similar to what you would see in a motor mount, then finally the propeller.

The vaulcanized rubber secures the hub to the propeller. When the vaulcanized rubber fails, this allows the bronze hub to slip within the propeller.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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