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starting issues

missnancy

missnancy

Regular Contributor
I have a weird one for you all. When I go to start the engine, I turn the key and get nothing. I then turn the key and it turns right over. Now after it has been run for a couple minutes it will turn right over like it is supposed to. Any ideas?
 
I'd generalize our Green Friend's comment to a corroded (bad) connection in the starting circuit. Could be a wire, the ignition switch, the safety switch, or the slave solenoid. A test light and some time will likely isolate it.
 
Hi Miss Nancy, nice to see you aboard, the last time I saw you was on the Pacemaker forum, did you ever find out why your oil pressure was acting up ? Sorry to say , I have no new ideas about your present problem , I agree with the two gentlemen before me , a corroded wire or connector on the switches somewhere, time and a test light is all you can look forward too. I would guess that the first turn heats up the bad connection and the second one has just enough connection to make it thru. Nice hearing from you again....Lee
 
Thanks Guy's,

Sounds like the seach on the wires is on!

Lee, I ended up replacing the engine with a reman from Rapido Marine. The one that I "rebuilt" chewed itself up and when I started pulling it apart it looked like a engine that had never had an oil change in ten years rather then one with only 3 or 4 hours on in with an oil change in the middle. After the shock was over with I found I could do the reman with a warrenty cheaper than doing it myself again and that included shipping! I am still on the Pacemaker forum as well as here. A great bunch of guy's in both places with people willing to share their expertise.
 
Dave, good thought but the old gal hasnt got one. I am going to start at the ingnition switch and work my way down and see what I can find. Thanks!
 
Really sorry to hear about that engine, I know you put a lot of work into it not to mention the $$$ .Other than this little irritating problem I guess she's running pretty good . Good luck on tracking this one down, do you happen to have a spare ign, switch that you can swap out for a quick check of the internals?...Lee
 
Lee, No spare but they don't cost that much and the one in Miss Nancy is 20 years or more old so I am just going to pick up a new one and when I replace it I will check all the wiring as well.
 
It could be just me, but every time I troubleshoot a electrical wiring problem. it turns out to be a switch or the component. Not sure how many total switches I have
but at least 1/2 have been replaced in the last two years. Not complaining, the boat is 22 years old.
 
Agreed, but the other switches will have to get in line, so many other projects. That's the problem with this forum, I discover more and more I need to do. My girlfriends says it is "never ending :)
 
Hey there Miss Nancy.......What's going on with that starting problem ? You've been kinda quiet for the past few days.......Lee
 
Lee,
Right now nothing. My plan is to pick up a new switch and run new wires. Niether is very expensive and hopefully they will eliminate the problem. I have already winterized the engine and hope to get her under canvas soon. I am going to try to leave a way to get on board during the winter so I can keep working on her. I want to install a new freash water tank this year as well as having an electrical panel to up grade. Which all will take a back seat to the new bathroom in the house that my wife wants. Boating rule #1, keep mother happy!

Paul
 
Had that problem for 5 YEARS on my port engine. It would initially do nothing when I hit the key then, after jumping the solenoid, it would usually start okay for a few days. Grrr!

Changed EVERYTHING in sight, including the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch, battery cables, solenoids (twice), fuse holder, etc. etc. Nothing worked until a good buddy of mine suggested installing a relay to pull in the solenoid, and it has started first time ever since! The voltage required to operate the relay is so little that IT always works. The relay ten takes 12 volts right from the battery cable to operate the solenoid. Beautiful!

Jeff
 
Hey Paul , sounds good....real coincidence I owe someone a new bathroom too. She normally won't bother me as long as the boat is still in the water, but once it's out, oh boy ! So it looks like right after the holidays I'll have to forget about the boat.Good luck on yours....Lee
 
Thanks for the idea Jeff, I just cant figure why it just started doing this. And after the engine has run, even if only for a minute it does not do it again. On a positive non mechanical note, I just checked a water tank I had in the garage, and found it will fit where I want to put it. Nice when something goes the way you want it to once in a while.
 
Paul:

They are called slave solenoids and have been standard equipment for decades. The engine builders started using them as they can't control how much harness was installed by the hull maker. A typical GM starter solenoid (older style) will draw 20+ amps to close. If its 20 feet from the engine connector to the helm, that's well 40 foot of copper for the current to go thru just on the positive side of the circuit. (probably 60 ft total). Adding the slave solenoid reduces that 40+ foot length to less than two....

If you think that's your issue, check the voltage on the S terminal at the starter solenoid when you do that first (cold) starting attempt...Going from memory, if its drops much below 10 VDC, the solenoid won't close reliably. This is one instance where an older analog meter is beneficial.....
 
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