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Starting issues with 2T 3cyl 70hp help!!!

Rjg30091982

New member
Hi guys

had an issue in a previous thread which I've now sorted after 10 hours with a multimeter!!!

next issue is an issue the boats had since I've had it! It starts up pretty well and runs perfectly, each cylinder has 100psi exactly however sometimes cold sometimes warm it won't start and just turns over and over and doesn't even cough or splutter.

i used to squeeze the fuel bulb 3 times but now do it till I can't squeeze any more 30 odd times but this still doesn't change much, I've cleaned the carbs and again nothing.

today I changed the plugs and it fired up! However the old plugs were about 2 months old and about 6 running hours old, they were golden brown and not oily which I think is good.

is it fuel? Is it electrical? As I said it's not that it struggles to start it's more has no spark at all then after 2-3 minutes will cough for about 5 seconds or so then run. But it runs perfectly then!!??? Doesn't miss or cough at all. All fuel hoses are also new and new jubilee clamps all tight!

thanks in advance!

russ
 
Okay, you've apparently checked the compression as you stated that each (3) cylinder has exactly 100 psi. However, you've said nothing about the ignition/spark.

The spark on that model should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? You cannot determine whether the problem is electrical or fuel until you check the spark.

Look closely at the stator under the flywheel to see if there is a sticky looking substance dripping down on the powerhead.
 
Okay, you've apparently checked the compression as you stated that each (3) cylinder has exactly 100 psi. However, you've said nothing about the ignition/spark.

The spark on that model should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? You cannot determine whether the problem is electrical or fuel until you check the spark.

Look closely at the stator under the flywheel to see if there is a sticky looking substance dripping down on the powerhead.


Hi

ive looked under the flywheel and can't see anything? I'll check the plugs but have to be honest never set the gap on a pair of spark plugs in my life, I just don't believe it makes a difference but I'll give it a go tomorrow

thanks
 
ive looked under the flywheel and can't see anything? I'll check the plugs but have to be honest never set the gap on a pair of spark plugs in my life, I just don't believe it makes a difference but I'll give it a go tomorrow. thanks

There better be a stator under that flywheel... why can't you see it?

I said nothing about changing the gap on the spark plugs.
 
There better be a stator under that flywheel... why can't you see it?

I said nothing about changing the gap on the spark plugs.

Right got it! You meant check the stator gap! Sorry misread it

i meant I see nothing sticky

again I will check that gap tomorrow,

if if its wrong how do I adjust that? Is the flywheel shaft shimmed?
 
Right got it! You meant check the stator gap! Sorry misread it

i meant I see nothing sticky

again I will check that gap tomorrow,

if if its wrong how do I adjust that? Is the flywheel shaft shimmed?

Must checked it now the gap between stator and flywheel is 0.40mm which is 1/64

7/16 is 11mm which is a pretty big gap?

Am am I misunderstand again?
 
Sorry , but you totally mis-understand what you are being asked to do or check.----------Read this 3 times if you must.---Does the spark on each lead jump a gap of 7/16" or 1 cm on tester, yes or no ??
 
Go to the auto store and get an adjustable spark checker be under $10 set it to 7/16" gap and put it into the spark plug wire and clamp it to a bolt and check for spark. You absolutely HAVE to gap your plugs correctly it makes a difference.
 
Go to the auto store and get an adjustable spark checker be under $10 set it to 7/16" gap and put it into the spark plug wire and clamp it to a bolt and check for spark. You absolutely HAVE to gap your plugs correctly it makes a difference.

Myers but 7/16 is 11mm that's almost half an inch???
 
Correct.---------------The ignition system in good condition is capable of jumping a gap that big.-----Therefor a good way to test it on your motor !!
 
with flywheel on motor , pull a wire off spark plug install one end of tester to spark plug wire other end of tester attach to engine block(ground) adjust tester to 7/16 or what ever mm that equals, turn engine over with starter, look for spark on tester
 
10051080_atc_ac664_pri_mini.jpg
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-ignition-tester-ac664/10051080-P?searchTerm=ignition+tester
 
Well not not sure I know what you guys are talking about as my gap is not even 1mm let alone 11mm

You're speaking of using a spark plug to set a 7/16" gap which you know is impossible... and none of us here have said anything about using a spark plug to test the spark as it's a waste of time. You seem to have a problem comprehending advice and instructions as you still haven't tested the spark 13 posts later. It makes me wonder what we're going to encounter with the more complex advice.

Hopefully the following will get you on the right track... and no, I'm not advising you to take a train trip to visit us! :)

********************
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

********************
 
You may want to take your motor to somebody or get a manual. Or get a manual a spark test is one of the simplest tests you can do if you are struggling with that you may want to find a mechanic who can help you.
 
You may want to take your motor to somebody or get a manual. Or get a manual a spark test is one of the simplest tests you can do if you are struggling with that you may want to find a mechanic who can help you.


Sorry guys im just confused when you talk of 7/16 whilst talking about the fly wheel?!

anyway have tested the spark it's fine using a spark plug tester, all cyclinders Fire and show a constant flashing indicating a good spark.

carbs are clean even spotless and I know they have fuel.

compression is 100psi on all three having been rebuilt last year.

so I'm at a loss, I have compression, I have fuel and I have spark! So why does it struggle to start!
 
Sorry guys im just confused when you talk of 7/16 whilst talking about the fly wheel?!

anyway have tested the spark it's fine using a spark plug tester, all cyclinders Fire and show a constant flashing indicating a good spark.

carbs are clean even spotless and I know they have fuel.

compression is 100psi on all three having been rebuilt last year.

so I'm at a loss, I have compression, I have fuel and I have spark! So why does it struggle to start!



Well appeared to be to be the fuel pump not delivering enough fuel, rebuilt that and it started first time. Prior to this I think pumping the bulb flooded the carbs and made the plugs wet with fuel. Only time will tell.......
 
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