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Starboard is locked on spring recomissioning, trouble shooting help needed

S

slauder

Regular Contributor
1991 454 1350 hours good compression last year. Standard winterizing last fall.... Heavy smoking when fogged, 5 gals of pink antifreeze. Oil does look a little dirty but all oil. Last fall I didn't change the oil because oil analysis came back good.

When I turn the key I see the belt to alternator move a little then back. It feels like a strong kick then a thud.

How do I diagnose the issue? It seemed to be running okay last fall!

Thanks Scott
 
Dave I just got back. One of the plugs came out with water. The others looked okay! Does this mean I need to pull the heads? What information should I gather? Should I do compression test. The plug that came out with water didn't look too bad. I mean its not rusted or corroded. Could this be a breach in riser? I think I remember having a bog down twice on that engine just before end of season.


ps I was able to turn over after we free the hydro lock

Pss. It's number 8... Right next to the riser.
 
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How was the engine fogged, and how was last shut down?
You may have a bad manifold or a bad elbow, or you may have simply pulled water into #8 cylinder as the engine cycled it's last few revolutions upon shutting down.

Whatever the cause, it's certainly not good, and even worse if it's been in #8 cylinder for months.



When I winterize an Marine engine, I do the usual warm engine oil change, fuel stabilizing, etc. while a water supply is connected.
I not install a new sea water pump impeller at this time (as some will suggest doing).
I remove the impeller and either shelf it, or have a replacement ready for re-commissioning.

(if you do not want to removed a belt driven sea water pump impeller, at least loosen the drive belt)

While the sea water pump has been de-commisioned (after all else but fogging), this is when I do the very last run, and cylinder fogging (carbureted engines).
We can do a 8 to 10 second "dry start" without causing any damage to any of the exhaust components.
An 8 to 10 second "dry start" is plenty of time for cylinder fogging.

The benefit is in blowing the exhuast system dry just prior to the winter layup.


NOTE: This does not circumvent the issues of a bad exhaust component, but it certainly helps to avoid water in a cylinder for the winter layup duration.


Food for thought!

.
 
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a couple of squirts of engine oil into the suspect bore, crank with no plug, if no water somes out, that's good news. How old are the salt water cooled elbows? If over 4 or 5 years, I'd replace now. #8 is low, could be from leaks in the riser/elbow area.
 
Rick, I fogged with crc spray fogger into carb when running and pulling pink 5 gals from bucket. I usually change oil hot before that but oil analysis came back from black stone clean so...

How could I have "simply pulled in water on last cycles" without a breach somewhere?


Dave,
i will check compression and visual on water today. I bought the elbows and risers last month as I have 5.5 years.
i have to move the boat from the winter marina to the summer marina. I guess if no water is seen it would be safe to run her on 7 and plug out on #8 to maneuver a couple tight spots? I don't know if they will let me stay another week and don't have time for riser elbo today.
 
I see water being thrown out the plug hole as I turn the engine over. Is there value to a compression test? If this could be a breach on riser I should proceed with that.

Dave I see why you said to take compression... When taking compression on #7 I got water on that one too. I will remove risers and see what we have there.
 
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