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Spring Commissioning Surprises

knuckle47

Advanced Contributor
"For us here in the Northeast,

"For us here in the Northeast, the time frame for completing any work on the boat is coming to a close. At least for the out of water projects. Last year I had a great surprise in that, the engine I had re-done started perfectly ( nice surprise) The one that went to bed running great, woke up like JUNK (bad surprise)while sitting under the travelift !

Anyone have any tips on LOOKING for things that might indicate a developing issue ? (aside from the standard brochure checklists)"
 
Oh God! Have a nightmare like

Oh God! Have a nightmare like that nearly every year.

What's the symptoms?

Jeff
 
"Besides the oil analysis, I c

"Besides the oil analysis, I check the pH of the fresh water coolant. Pop the ditributor cap and look for 'growth' around the HV terminals and the low voltage connections too. I used to check the hoses and clamps, visually, but found a pressure tester was more efficient.

a good check on the bilge floor for drip/leak indications.

The floscans are a good indicator after commissioning.

The best way to avoid the issues is to keep detailed log book entries and then compare 'what you did' with 'what you should have done'...usually the root cause is something I forgot or ignored..."
 
"I don't get a particular

"I don't get a particular time to go over everything, so it's pretty much a continuous, year round process. Oil and flame arrestor cleaning is on a 50 hr interval, no matter the month. I have a minor maintenance interval of every 2 years, which does xmission oil changes, cap/rotor, plugs, coolant, impellors, zincs, and fuel filters. Every 4 years, add risers and belts. Anything else, is pretty much on a failure basis."
 
"Every year I select a "bi

"Every year I select a "big" project. This year it`s the 4" exhaust hoses that run from the engine bay aft bulkhead thru the aft cabin, port & strb.
OMG, what a b---- ! All the the hose had to be cut into one ft. sections and removed unless I wanted to remove all the cabinetry on both sides. It was a humongus task but welll worth it. I replaced the hose with the 10 ft. lengths of Hi Temp fiberglass tubing inserted thru the transom. Once in place I used two 8 inch long coupler hose (4") double clamped . times this all by two for the other side.
Two years ago it was aprox one hundred ft. of complete fuel system hose. Thank God, and my son, I`m able to do almost all of my own preventative maintenance, and I enjoy the whole thing. Its all part of the grand experience of boating."
 
"Fortunately, YET...I am feeli

"Fortunately, YET...I am feeling and thinking things should be ok. It is getting warmer and activity is building at the marina compared to those days last month and before when we were the only two around.

Today I went down and totally sealed the kerf cuts on the deck skins where I had to replace the balsa between the ceiling and the deck. The epoxy was set form a few weeks ago and it is SO MUCH more solid. Fortunately it was only about 12 sq ft and the 4 skins I had removed went back in cleanly. Taping and fiberglassing were done in about 2 hours.

I have a new (used) but larger front hatch to cut out and install but I hesitate with the wet resin around the taping with the flying dust. It is ALWAYS windy there in the winter and HOT in the summer. The clang clang clang against the sailboat masts almost makes you a bit crazy.

One other thing that disturbs me IS...This season..We wont be launching and sliding into the dock 40 feet away. Our first run is about 55 miles southward. With a few runs under my belt I always feel better about those types of trip but for the FIRST one of the season. I am trying to cover the bases"
 
"Al:

you should be fine mec


"Al:

you should be fine mechanically...I'm sure the cosmetic part will be fine for the run. We used to splash in the spring and then run up to 150nm to get around to the ocean. When gas broke thru $2/gal, we started using the haulout behind the barrier island.

When you get around to the hatch, make sure you let us know how that goes....I'm pretty sure i have to replace mine this year; it drips sometimes and the hardware is stiff (corrosion) and the finish is starting to flake off."
 
"Hi Mark,

Actually, The ori


"Hi Mark,

Actually, The original is 21x21 and has a raised molded in section that it is cut from. The raised section is about 23x23 so I can take a bit of space from the area and install this newer larger hatch. While it is a three hinge spring loaded double handled MONSTER, it should fit the bill perfectly. The 25 yr old one leaked, had no working rear hinge and STIFF latches to secure it. This one is really nice.

I got lucky regarding the balsa replacement. It came out so nice and stiff and the one area about 6" or so that the skin did not seal well to was handled niceley by drilling two small holes in the skin and injecting resin into the one hole, oozed out from the other and then plugged. When I tapped on it with the hammer, it sounded tight and solid like the rest of the deck...FINALLY! As for cosmetics, as long as we can float and run, I can do that stuff at the dock or even while underway if my brother is aboard.
Mechanically, my concern is going to be the UN-expected surprise. I just have no idea where it is going to jump out at me from and taking that small run a few miles and them heading back in always allows for analysing new smells, sounds, and stuff like that. Its a mental thing I'm sure..

When double clamping a fitting, IS THERE a specified distance between the two clamps that should be adhered to?"
 
"Sounds like you have a good b

"Sounds like you have a good bit of room with that hatch.

You can always 'forget something' a few miles from your haulout port...My experiences indicate another night won't cost you any more than the time to secure the boat.

Regarding double clamping; I'm only aware of three rules: 1) use high quality clamps, 2) make sure both clamps are 'over the barb' so they have something solid to hold the hose against, & 3) make sure the two clamps are separated so they don't interfere with each other."
 
"UPDATE: I was certainly not

"UPDATE: I was certainly not prepared to go into the water yet but the marina had to move our boat in order to launch sone others stored behind us. When asked what we needed to do...they graciously said...drop it in, when you need to come out ...we'll just pick you up and you can do your thing on the lift. Screwed in the plugs and it was done.

Our thing is to change the props. Finally found a set of 21x23 4 blade ...up a few steps from the 18x21 3 blades in use currently.

My startup fears were unfounded...both engines started right up after about 8-10 seconds of cranking (dry fuel lines).. Checked out everything and seems like all systems are go...

I did have an unusual generator raw water pump problem. No water...opened the cover of the pump and found 5 perfectly good rubber vanes just cleanly sliced away from the core. Took about 2 minutes to replace the impeller, lube, and it runs fine. Why that happened is beyond me. I had rebuilt that pump only last season and the generator ran MAYBE 3 minutes all year.

Regarding clamps: I have double clapms where required I have clamps on so many hoses and lines that NO MATTER where I stick my hands, I wind up getting sliced somewhere on my hand, fingers or arms.

Is there a trick to keeping these ends from attacking? I did see something about heat shrink but that seems to be difficult at best"
 
"Al:
Glad most things are wor


"Al:
Glad most things are working out for you.

On the impeller - substandard part, maybe flawed from the get???

The hose clamps - the only trick I've found that is cost effective - is to install it, mark it, then cut off the excess. Lot of work but makes for less red drips in the bilge. Another thought is getting a pair of MECHANIX gloves? Electric tape will work but will work loose over the summer.

Your going up in both pitch and diameter on the props a whole lot. I'd suggest finding your notes from last spring (RPM achieved) and take good notes after you get to the new slip. Also, see if the lift has a "scale" on it where they can get you a current weight estimate. I'm thinking these data will be handy when you go to the propscan shop to get the new wheels adjusted.

If you have a propscan shop lined up, you may want to get their thoughts Before you make that trip."
 
Somebody makes some slip on ho

Somebody makes some slip on hose clamp end protector red vinyl things. Forgot where i saw these..
 
"Regarding the props: Our ori

"Regarding the props: Our originals were done at propscan in South Jersey , The job was spectacular regarding balance and the performance we could get out of the raw material we gave them.

Their computer programs based on weight, ratios, and WOT show we can go this larger route. I know I can currently get 5000 rpm should I let it and dropping it down 600 or so rpm can be a good thing even though we usually run 3200 or so. That screaming RPM sound at anything over 4000 just seems to hurt...I can only imagine how the engine must feel

Fastjeff made a good point with some of the posts he had made and I am ready willing and ALMOST able to make this change..SO, I will let you know. They will be here Tuesday.

I will surely be anxious to see the difference. I have about 3 inches between the tip of the blade and the bottom of the hull with these new props ...I assume that is now maxxed out.

Dave: you mention the flame arrestor cleaning, How are you doing this. I did spray it once with carb cleaner but the dripping soot and chemical bothered my sense of environmental protection at some level. They do get grimey

Does any one tension conventional drive belts with a tension tool thing or is everyone just prying the two apart hoping for the 1/2" at 10 lbs deflection rule?"
 
"A tensioning tool works bette

"A tensioning tool works better and doesn't wreck anything. Hard to find nowadays with serpentine belt systems so common.

Jeff


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"flame arrestor cleaning; I&#

"flame arrestor cleaning; I've used mineral spirits with good luck, using a plastic spray bottle. Then, a air jet drying over the garbage can. Others have simply put them in the dishwasher, but that would be a bold move in my house..."
 
"THAT is the tool Jeff...Harbo

"THAT is the tool Jeff...Harbor Frieght has them as well but I am sure they would buckle at 9 lbs of pressure....I have a few turnbuckles home I am tempted to make one

Dave, a VERY bold move !"
 
"The parts washer is the easie

"The parts washer is the easiest thing I've found for the flame arrestor. bad part is it requires a trip away from the boat. For at the boat cleaning, I take the arrestors and a can of "brake clean" over to the "Waste Oil Drum" at the marina's shop. Spray them off over the 'pouring spout' inlet of the drum - about 10" ID - works out ok most of the time.

Belt tension - I use a screwdriver thru the 'inner slot' on the pump mounting bracket. The alternator is done with an adapter - looks like a giant circle hook that grabs the alternator frame - and a breaker bar. Belt tension gauge used but can't tell you the numberic value as the numbers are worn off - 1/3 into the green zone has been good."
 
"Al,
Glad to hear the twins


"Al,
Glad to hear the twins woke right up after a long hibernation. I would be nervous to if I had to go on a 55 mile trip right out of the gate after a long cold winter,heck I'd be nervous to make that trip any time.I'll bet there is not a boat out there in any better shape than yours,enjoy your trip and let the season begin!!!



p.s. if your old props will be up for sale I may be interested."
 
"Thanks Jody, BUT..I saw yours

"Thanks Jody, BUT..I saw yours and I like it. She is starting to shape up cosmetically also. I replaced the forward decking soft spots and it came out great. The v-berth below is getting new headliner this week and then the interior decorating begins. Do we have a section on that here?


As for the props, I have to keep a set as extras JUST in case. These are going to take some tuning to see if they are really too big...I don't know 100% until I take her out.

That trip gets me anytime also...it always brings out that part of me when I see that last little piece of land just blink away and its all just ocean, and then we keep on going ! I blame it on a sincere respect for my blood pressure."
 
I didn't know you had that

I didn't know you had that much "reserve" with your old wheels....when will you get that assessment on the new ones?
 
"That WOT can go over 5K IF I

"That WOT can go over 5K IF I let it keep building. As I get over 4500 rpm the roar of the motor makes me feel like I am abusing it and I do NOT like to run it like that BUT...It still builds rpm within about 6-10 seconds to 5K.

The assessment for this new set was done in January 09. I had spoken with the guys that did the initial propscan. He told me they use several programs to determine size and pitch calculations. With our drive ratio, weight, hull, and current WOT we came up with a few but 20 x 23 seems to be what it would like. These are 21's but I will get them up and running to see where I need them to be for the next haul out. I have wanted to use 4 blade props for some time. The ones I had found were always either $$$$ or for larger shafts. These were close to the size I need, very reasonable $$ and...they fit."
 
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