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Sp-c stuck in forward volvo outdrive

A

ashewitt

New member
I been searching the web for an answer to the problem I’m having. I ‘ve seen similar posts but most indicate a cable problem which I don’t think mine is. So here’s my situation. I have a 1990 21ft Walk Around Cuddy with a 4.3 engine and a SP-C outdrive. We were out this weekend and the drive stuck in forward after going full throttle for about 10 minutes. This is the second time this has happened. The shift mechanism is stuck in forward and the engine wouldn’t turn over. When it happened the first time I removed the cable link and inspected everything thing, the shift mechanism would not turn manually until I tapped it and it broke free. I replaced the gear oil, did another inspection and reconnected the cable. I tested the shift mechanism on the trailer and it seemed fine. Forward reverse and neutral all worked without a problem. It seems to work fine until I run the boat at full throttle. When I did that it sticks again. Right now it is on the trailer the shift mechanism was removed and reinstalled and it is working freely. I don’t want to risk taking it out again and going through the entire process again. Any ideas.
 
RicardoMarine said:
What do mean "stuck in forward and engine won't turn over"?

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Click to expand...

I mean it will not shift out of forward. either with the controls or after the cable has been removed from the shift lever at the rear of the gear box. its like the gear selector sleeve gets locked into the forward gear. if you tap on the housing it breaks free and starts to function normally. the engine won't turn over because the gear shifter is not in neutral so it won't start. So your cruising along and slow down to stop, you try to shift into neutral and it won't go into neuutral, you turn it off with the key then your dead in the water. it ends up with someone towing you to the dock.
 
Here's what I'd suggest:

Drain the gear oil, and inspect it.

Remove the transmission from the Intermediate housing ONLY! No need to remove the entire drive.

With the transmission sitting in a fixture (I can show you how to build one) carefully remove the four Bearing Box collar bolts and slide the main drive gear and BB from the main gear case.

Remove the top cover, and loosen the LH thread vertical shaft nut.
NOTE: this is a LH thread.

Remove from the fixture and lay it flat on it's side on the work bench.

Side the vertical shaft downwards just enough to remove the two split rings.
Remove the split ring keeper from the vertical shaft.

Now completely remove the top nut.

Now you will be able to remove each driven gear and driven gear bearing from the gear case.

Keep each one marked or labeled..... and watch for and inventory all shims..... these must go back in exactly how removed.

This will now expose both top/bottom conical surfaces of the sliding sleeve and the two gear cups.

This is where experience will come into play, as I'm not quite certain how to tell you what you'll be looking for....... IOW, this requires a trained eye!

Perhaps look at the upper side of the sleeve and the upper driven gear cup.... and compare to the lower sleeve area and the lower gear cup.
They will likely show a slightly different wear pattern that may be causing the sliding sleeve to become stuck in the lower driven gear cup.

Post photos when you can.


BTW, these transmissions will ship in a USPS flat rate box for $16 one way.
I receive these via USPS quite often.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I looked at manual and with your instructions and the pictures in the manual I have a pretty good idea of the steps and the things to do to disassemble the transmission. Unfortunately that part about the trained eye is where I would be at a loss. I'll be able to drained the gear oil and check for water tonight. After that I'll evaluate my options and post an update.

thanks again.
 
You won't have any trouble if you do not upset the pretension sleeve for the BB pre-load regarding the rolling torque value..... and if you get all shims back where they belong!

There will be several Dos/Don'ts.... so just ask if you have a question or two.
Or... ship it to me for this and a complete re-seal..... your call!
 
Well I had a chance to do some more trouble shooting last night. It appears that there is water in the oil not sure when this started because I didn't notice it last time I changed the fluids. So in addition to whatever damage there may be I have to find the leak. Right now I'm leaning toward taking it somewhere and having someone else do it. I appreciate the instructions and help you offered. I'm curious about the seals. Do they normally go bad with age? Is there any one seal that goes bad more often then others? Without a presure\vaccum checking system my only DIY option would be to replace all the seals and hope it fixes the leak.
 
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