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willow

willow

Regular Contributor
Twin Crusader 1991 350s .......................10 hour trip..................5 hours into trip, (cruising at 1500 RPM) starboard engine RPM rolled back a couple of hundred RPM went back up and then rolled back about 300 RPM, then rolled back and engine quit, no noise, no backfiring,...................About 10 mins later I decided to try to start the engine .......I started the starboard engine, (started on first try), and it did the same thing after about 20 minutes of running. Did the same sequence about 6 times to get to destination.......FOR SOME REASON I CAN NOT GET THIS POSTING TO DROP TO A NEW PARAGRAPH....SORRY................. Anyhow...all fuel filters checked.....no problems evident....no antiphon valve on this boat................Tank 1/2 full of fuel...........I suspect COIL problem as the coil looks a bit rusty on the top.........new plugs, Dist Cap and rotor installed this year ........................The obvious sequence is to probably swap the coils between engines and see what happens but I would welcome any thoughts or other avenues I can explore should the COIL not be the problem....((The marina experts, (fellow-non-mechanical boaters) feel that the coil is slowly breaking down and when cooled it works again???))))............................................PS............. any idea why I can not start a new paragraph after I push ENTER??:mad:
 
For your PC problems: Try a reboot. (It's working for me.)

For the boat, buy a NEW coil (be sure but's the right one) and put that on. IF it wasn't the coil, you now have a spare, right? Never mess with a good running motor!

Something electronic is heating up and screwing up. I assume your motor has electronic ignition? The 'Black Box' (ignition controller) could also be the culprit. Better buy one of these as well, but try the NEW coil first.

Jeff
 
fastjeff said:
For your PC problems: Try a reboot. (It's working for me.)

For the boat, buy a NEW coil (be sure but's the right one) and put that on. IF it wasn't the coil, you now have a spare, right? Never mess with a good running motor!

Something electronic is heating up and screwing up. I assume your motor has electronic ignition? The 'Black Box' (ignition controller) could also be the culprit. Better buy one of these as well, but try the NEW coil first.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff...I will do that......the problem with the paragraph could be the computer.......will try a reboot Now.
 
willow said:
Thanks Jeff...I will do that......the problem with the paragraph could be the computer.......will try a reboot Now.
Click to expand...

Nope......reboot failed.....Thank Gawd Win 10 is coming out at the end of July cause that is where I am going. I also think my computer with Win7 is slowly eating itself. Going to buy a whole new setup..............................please...no "use a mac" rebuttals:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
Aha.....

Clicked on the icon above the REPLY window(((.....little A /A )))which turned blue and I now have paragraph spacing when I hit enter.

I believe that icon is WYSIWYG and it now works fine.;):eek:
 
And I was about to offer you my usual 'good' PC advice: Smack the top right hand corner.

Works for me!

Jeff
 
Could also be the ballast resistor....if your engine has one....

Could also be one or more spark plugs (or their high tension leads) breaking down....or a loose connection in that path causing loss of spark...at the plug
 
makomark said:
Could also be the ballast resistor....if your engine has one....

Could also be one or more spark plugs (or their high tension leads) breaking down....or a loose connection in that path causing loss of spark...at the plug
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice....
Presently away from the boat for a few days.
Will post any findings as soon as I get back and do more "fixin' "
 
Note to those (stuck with) ballast resistor ignition systems: Not all resistors are the same! Some have much higher wattage than others, so they don't heat up excessively (and lower the voltage top the coil). I had the wrong ones on mine and it caused all kinds of hell: stalling, missing at speed, etc.

Here's a trick that help diagnose this problem, and even get you out of trouble: Have a jumper wire handy (short length of wire with alligator clips on each end) and jumper out the resistor. If the motor immediately runs better, the resistor is killing the coil (with too low a voltage). Don't leave it on there, however, for you'll send too much voltage to the coil.

Jeff
 
Hi guys/gals,

Got back to the boat on Thursday.

The "gloink" mechanic said he changed the coil, the module, and the rotor and cap. Said the cap had a few burn marks in it, probably from the misfiring. He ran the engine for close to 2 hours and said it ran well (((there was no load on the engine as the boat was in the marina)))

We took the boat out and it was about an hour of cruising and all ran well

IS IT FIXED??

I don't think we will really know until we do a long haul trip and that won't happen until September as we will spend the summer in 1000 Islands and no island is more than one hour from the marina we stay in.

Hopefully it is fixed and we have a pleasant and uneventful summer....take care out there:D
 
I'm hoping so as well. As usual, my first sea trail of the year was a nightmare: bad impeller, ballast resistor and coil burned out, 'White Gook' in the carbs (damn ethanol!), blown fresh water pump, one clogged passage in the exhaust manifold circuit (21) ' F on one side), along with a few other things.

I guess that's what to expect with a 30 year old boat.

Jeff
 
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