Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Sierra water pump

S

slinky_70

New member
The pump states to torque to 8-10 inch pounds. I cannot find a torque wrench that goes below 20 inch pounds. How is anyone doing this
 
Here is the reality,

Every bolt/nut has a recommended torque spec.

Do people use every torque spec.....NO

They are most important for critical assemblies ( engine block assemblies, outdrive assemblies with bearings that need specific preload.which is required.

The impellor housing is not one of them..
 
I had a housing crack last year. I was lucky to get back without overheating. The faster I went the cooler it ran. Only thing I can think of why it cracked was it was overtightened.
 
There is nothing else to say.

Only inexperience dictates the need to explain how to properly tighten a light duty 1/4 and 5/16 nuts to a plastic housing.

The most likely rwason it cracked was due to no water in exhaust cauing plastic housing to fracture..

This thread is done!!
 
Visit the " snap on " tools truck.----Buy a torque wrench.---Often with torque that low they are in the form of a screw driver.
 
If you must.....https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=inch+pound+torque+wrench&qid=1684072341&sr=8-3
 
slinky_70 said:
I had a housing crack last year. I was lucky to get back without overheating. The faster I went the cooler it ran. Only thing I can think of why it cracked was it was overtightened.
Click to expand...
You will be better off buying an OEM merc than a cheaper aftermarket. I found on the gen one the sierra impellers lasted half as long as the OEM mercs

As others stated likely cracked due to heat from the exhaust or lack of water flow. Wen was the last time it was changed.
slinky_70 said:
Thanks guys just trying to find some information but don't need your stupid ****
Click to expand...
If you want help dont go full Karen on people when you ask goofy questions. Are you really going to spend $50-75 on a low range inch lb troque wrench ? just snug it up. That's what is meant by a calibrated elbow...
 
Dieter said:
You will be better off buying an OEM merc than a cheaper aftermarket. I found on the gen one the sierra impellers lasted half as long as the OEM mercs

As others stated likely cracked due to heat from the exhaust or lack of water flow. Wen was the last time it was changed.

If you want help dont go full Karen on people when you ask goofy questions. Are you really going to spend $50-75 on a low range inch lb troque wrench ? just snug it up. That's what is meant by a calibrated elbow...
Click to expand...
If someone asks a silly question such as this It makes you wonder if they have ever done any mechanical work on anything?

In industry such as small machine/medical instrument manufacturing, many assemblies use small screws and require specific tightening specs. Many use Inch/Ounce calibrated screw drivers...

But these parts aint medical instrument....lol
 
Dieter said:
You will be better off buying an OEM merc than a cheaper aftermarket. I found on the gen one the sierra impellers lasted half as long as the OEM mercs

As others stated likely cracked due to heat from the exhaust or lack of water flow. Wen was the last time it was changed.

If you want help dont go full Karen on people when you ask goofy questions. Are you really going to spend $50-75 on a low range inch lb troque wrench ? just snug it up. That's what is meant by a calibrated elbow...
Click to expand...
I change the impeller every year and after they came out with the one piece housing I also change that every year. I thought the Sierra was a brand that was backed by OEM Merc. If not then may I will switch to Merc. I always try to stay away from 3rd part knock offs. Definitely was not an issue with lack of water. The impeller was fine when the pump was pulled out and replaced indicating to me there no water issue. As stated originally I was able to get back by maintaining higher RPM to keep the water temp down to me indicating that by running higher RPM was able to keep enough water in pump to compensate for the air being drawn in from crack.
 
kghost said:
If someone asks a silly question such as this It makes you wonder if they have ever done any mechanical work on anything?

In industry such as small machine/medical instrument manufacturing, many assemblies use small screws and require specific tightening specs. Many use Inch/Ounce calibrated screw drivers...

But these parts aint medical instrument....lol
Click to expand...
Did not view this as a silly question just asking how people are getting the proper torque per the specifications of 8-10 inch pounds as required per manufacturer.
 
slinky_70 said:
I change the impeller every year and after they came out with the one piece housing I also change that every year. I thought the Sierra was a brand that was backed by OEM Merc. If not then may I will switch to Merc. I always try to stay away from 3rd part knock offs. Definitely was not an issue with lack of water. The impeller was fine when the pump was pulled out and replaced indicating to me there no water issue. As stated originally I was able to get back by maintaining higher RPM to keep the water temp down to me indicating that by running higher RPM was able to keep enough water in pump to compensate for the air being drawn in from crack.
Click to expand...
Merc and Quicksilver are the OEM brands. Quicksilver is the same OEM merc part with a slightly different part number so Merc can sell items outside their dealer network. Sierra is one of the better aftermarket suppliers some others are just plain junk. In my experience the merc impellers are worth the extra buck for them, would think the housing is the same.


slinky_70 said:
Did not view this as a silly question just asking how people are getting the proper torque per the specifications of 8-10 inch pounds as required per manufacturer.
Click to expand...
They aren't just snug it up. That's what people were trying to tell you... don't start cussing at folks when u needs some help otherwise you will get a bunch of wise azz answers with this crowd.
 
kghost said:
If someone asks a silly question such as this It makes you wonder if they have ever done any mechanical work on anything?

In industry such as small machine/medical instrument manufacturing, many assemblies use small screws and require specific tightening specs. Many use Inch/Ounce calibrated screw drivers...

But these parts aint medical instrument....lol
Click to expand...
Obviously but I asked some dumb ones back in the day too.... but didn't give attitude while I was trying to find my ass with a flashlight and a map
 
slinky_70 said:
Did not view this as a silly question just asking how people are getting the proper torque per the specifications of 8-10 inch pounds as required per manufacturer.
Click to expand...
As I said in my first reply, ALL bolts/nuts have a torque specification.

That does not mean that it must be followed. Common sense plays a roll in that decision. For the impeller housing tight is the answer.
If a professional wasted time torquing every nut and bolt on NON critical assemblies it would take for ever and cost 5 times as much for a repair.

Critical assemblies would be Head bolts, rod bolts/nuts. timing chain gear bolts, Flywheel bolts to crankshaft flange/ Outdrive bearing preloads, bearing/gear assemblies etc etc.....

A water pump impeller housing is not a Critical assembly. As long as the nuts are tight all will be good.

I use a SNAP ON 1/4" air ratchet for removal and re-installation. ALso use a Cordless 20 volt small type impact, Dewalt.

I have a dial type inch/lb torque wrench but only use it for bearing preloads and some of those are 4-8 inch/lbs. (Critical assembly)
 
If ya have a fish weight scale ya can use that. Measure effective length of your spanner in inches..12 divided by your wrench length multiplied by the torque required. So...12 divided by..say 6 inch wrench is 2. Required setting is 10 inch pounds. So you will need 20 lbs on your scale with 6 inch spanner to equal 10 in/lbs
 
Back
Top