Trying to link and sync per the instructions in my service manual and using a Youtube OMC video as a guide. ~ 8:12 of the video, they show the idle being adjusted with the throttle cable disconnected and the throttle lever is resting against the idle stop screw. If I disconnect my throttle cable, the throttle lever falls away from the idle stop. Is the throttle lever spring supposed to keep tension on the lever against the idle stop screw? I assumed the spring was to get the spark lever and the throttle lever to work together, but cannot otherwise figure out why my throttle lever doesn't rest against the stop like in the video. Any thoughts?
Correct. The throttle cam is not the same, but the throttle lever, the spark advance lever and the bellcrank part numbers match up from '87 to '00. Does a change in design of the throttle cam change how the idle is adjusted? Figured the idle adjustment would be the same as the video due to the idle being set with the throttle cam not touching the cam follower. I am not sitting in front of my manual, but i believe the process in the video is the same as in my manual. I am just wondering if the throttle lever is supposed to rest against the idle stop when disconnected from the throttle cable, or if the throttle cable is the only thing that holds the throttle lever against the idle stop. If the throttle cable alone does the holding, it seems like it would be a pita to adjust the cable trunion and the idle screw to get it set.
Yes the lever must go against the idle stop.-----What is your motor doing / not doing that leads you do do this procedure.----If motor has issues what trouble shooting have you done?
Yes the lever must go against the idle stop.-----What is your motor doing / not doing that leads you do do this procedure.----If motor has issues what trouble shooting have you done?
I was having issues with it intermittently not starting, or it would start but die after QuickStart. Even when it would idle for a while after Quickstart, the rpm's would not remain steady and would eventually die. The carbs had not been rebuilt in a while; so i rebuilt them. Same problems. The vro fuel pump (that I had plugged years ago into a premix) had been leaky for a while. I did not want to rebuild it; so I replaced it with a BRP premix fuel pump. Same issues. Checked compression. Got 135, 132, 135 across the three cylinders. I then started checking electronics. Both the power pack and the timer base failed CDI's testing specs. I replaced both of them. The timing key and the magnets under the flywheel look fine. Key switch tested fine. Everything else tested fine. I went through the link and sync process per the manual, but am having an issue getting it to idle after Quickstart. I know it is something I am not doing right, but can not get it sorted out. After it starts, I can throttle it up a bit and get it to run ~ 1800 rpm; but when I throttle down, it dies. I read that reed valves can cause idling issues, and I did have fuel in the carb throat of #1 and #2; so I took off the intake manifold cover to check them out. The lower middle reed on both #1 and #2 had gaps in them. I am waiting for replacement reeds and a gasket to get to me; so I am at a stand still for the moment. Another thing I am curious about with the link and sync is the "start" point for the idle screw. There is no mention of a starting point in the manual. There is only instruction to make sure that the throttle lever rests tightly against the idle screw. Also, where should the screw adjuster that is on the timer base be set during this process? Thanks for taking the time to give me a hand with this.
One thing I noticed in this excellent video is that everything is like new, yet no lubrication on moving parts that often wear. As the motors age, they need these points cleaned and re-lubed. The throttle cam and associated parts are often neglected, resulting in excessive wear and clearance. Aluminum parts then wear and mix with old grease to form a compound that can bind and stick. Case in point......transom mounting bolts/clamps on smaller outboards. Every motor I get here has tightness and binding because of improper thread irrigation and resulting deposits. The solution is to dismantle and clean, eliminating the binding created by the wear particles. Lubrication with fresh grease or oil results in free operation of the threads. In your motor the arms that operate when you activate the throttle are often sleeved with a nylon, or similar composition. After 20 or 30 years, these parts need to be dismantled, cleaned, and re lubed with fresh grease. White lubriplate, or I use a synthetic Amsoil product, will give you years of service. Note that salt water operation will certainly accelerate the degredation of components as well as lubricants.
