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Shifter Problems!!!! Please help

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75SeaShark

Member
I have a i/o 1975 sea shark. It has the inline 4cyl 140hp. The previous owner said he would have to wiggle the shifter handle to get it to start. Is there a part I can buy? Neutral safety switch or something? Thank u for any help…
 

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Yes, there is a neutral safety switch built in so that you do not start it in gear, and it is in the shifter somewhere and the wire goes to the starter solenoid, so when you activate the starter, it activates that switch and shuts off the 12 volts to the coil, so no spark. It sounds like the switch is the problem, thus the wiggle handling. It looks like a single shifter that controls the shift and the speed, and you have an electronic shift in that year, I have a 76. I know nothing about that specific shifter, I have the side mount, not sure how easy it is, or the availability of parts. Check this website and see what is available and if not, check Ebay. Or just take it apart and see if something is loose or something.
 
If the " neutral start " function is built into the shift switch , it is a $$$ item to replace.----Open up / split control box and post picture of toggle switch and wires on the switch.
 
So do a simple test on that switch.----Or bypass the function of the --neutral start---part.-----Or spend many beer tokens on a new switch.-----Or find a used switch using part # on GOOGLE.
 
I wish I could find a used one. Only new. 360. I tried to bypass it and nothing. Someone said there is another neutral safety on the stern
 
Disregard what "someone" said, he probably has never seen or worked on one.
The only switch is in the control box. A little switch with a lever & roller in the lower corner if I recall correctly.

Just an idea here; Maybe you are mis-diagnosising your symptoms here.
1)When this is happening, do you here the solenoid at the engine click but no crank? 2A)Do you hold the key turned & wiggle the handle or 2B)Release the key, wiggle & turn key again?

If #1, solenoid is bad/intermittently making contact to energize starter.
If 2A, I would suspect shift switch.
If 2B, I would suspect key switch.
 
Now days, start circuit is yellow with red tracer. I don't know about 50 years ago without looking at the boat.
Regardless, circuit must go from key to box to engine. For now to bypass, route wire from key to engine. Just be careful not to start in gear & hurt someone.
 
How did you try to bypass the function on the switch.-----Do not spend the beer tokens until you determine the issue here.-----Your location ?
 
Droid said:
Disregard what "someone" said, he probably has never seen or worked on one.
The only switch is in the control box. A little switch with a lever & roller in the lower corner if I recall correctly.

Just an idea here; Maybe you are mis-diagnosising your symptoms here.
1)When this is happening, do you here the solenoid at the engine click but no crank? 2A)Do you hold the key turned & wiggle the handle or 2B)Release the key, wiggle & turn key again?

If #1, solenoid is bad/intermittently making contact to energize starter.
If 2A, I would suspect shift switch.
If 2B, I would suspect key switch.
Click to expand...
Since I’ve got the boat I can’t get it to start at all. The starter on it was toast so I put a brand new starter. I don’t get a clock at the solenoid or nothing when I turn the key.
racerone said:
How did you try to bypass the function on the switch.-----Do not spend the beer tokens until you determine the issue here.-----Your location ?
Click to expand...
Saint Joseph Missouri
 
I treat the switch and had continuity on neutral, and when moved to f or r it would break continuity. But, while in neutral it was also showing continuity for forward and reverse and wouldn’t break continuity no matter which way I would shift. I heard there is another neutral safety switch back on the stern drive. I wonder if that’s the one that is messing up. But I did find a switch for 240 brand new and ordered it. When it gets here I will be sad from the spending of beer tokens but will install switch and re-evaluate
 
And wanna say thank u guys for any help and advice. I’ve called a zillion shops to look at boat and once I say omc inboard they pretty much hang up on me lol
 
Got the boat running. Runs really good. Got to lake, crossing in idle right off boat ramp, hit a buried tree stump, break my prop. I have a spare prop. Thank u guys for all the help. I put the electric shift switch on, then had to get a starter solenoid, then an ignition condenser, then a coil. Total beer token, 260. Not bad. Not going to same lake where I broke prop ever again with boat.
 
75SeaShark said:
Got the boat running. Runs really good. Got to lake, crossing in idle right off boat ramp, hit a buried tree stump, break my prop. I have a spare prop. Thank u guys for all the help. I put the electric shift switch on, then had to get a starter solenoid, then an ignition condenser, then a coil. Total beer token, 260. Not bad. Not going to same lake where I broke prop ever again with boat.
Click to expand...
Correction, 360 beer tokens.
 
Ok now it runs & you've used the prop as a depth finder. The prop never fails to let you know when it's too shallow.

I suggest you do basic servicing prior to just using the boat:
*Water pump impeller
*Gear lube in upper/lower/intermediate & tilt clutch housings
 
Droid said:
Ok now it runs & you've used the prop as a depth finder. The prop never fails to let you know when it's too shallow.

I suggest you do basic servicing prior to just using the boat:
*Water pump impeller
*Gear lube in upper/lower/intermediate & tilt clutch housings
Click to expand...
I’m hoping when the prop broke it just spin the prop hub. When I was motoring back to the ramp anything over 1300rpms it would feel like it was going into neutral. I have a spare prop any hopefully that will fix it. I was going to check the gear lube but in the glove box of boat, there are receipts from last year where the fluid was changed, steering something was greased. Should I still check them?
 
75SeaShark said:
I’m hoping when the prop broke it just spin the prop hub. When I was motoring back to the ramp anything over 1300rpms it would feel like it was going into neutral. I have a spare prop any hopefully that will fix it. I was going to check the gear lube but in the glove box of boat, there are receipts from last year where the fluid was changed, steering something was greased. Should I still check them?
Click to expand...
Prop as depth finder. Nice 😝
 
So. Took boat to boat ramp. Backed in water and anything over 1400 rpm boat would sound like it was in neutral. I replaced the prop. So tear the stern drive down or???
 
If you read my recent thread, I'm due for another lower re-build. I was trying to think of what could cause that. Mine was a broken clutch spring, but it wouldn't work at all. Maybe they put the wrong oil in and the clutch spring is just spinning and can't grab hold beyond a certain rpm. I would empty the oil in the lower, as that is where your problem is. And the upper and intermediate, as they would have put it in there too. and then new Type C oil. Two quarts should be enough. I think Droid will back me up on this.
Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/Star-Brite-Premium-Type-Lower/dp/B002IV4RVC/ref=sr_1_4_pp?crid=7Z5SFHS2T868&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.egu015RTF3NrblfOUo-9MtpEiFEjubaTqZIF2RA428HTdNVo-27nUlHFRvj7dV-toemAYPyDBGod9mSnbEyx2ehtnmzEdmvULhSCZb9dwMZCczhGhE6Vw3Vj16C5h0BeYFKnIN-FtoLEt7lJr-oXCz2Pu8gQfQ7LA4zdO7vWVOQ2X3waYmuUx9BnCKTDaFA7vXEC3tghPIC4gKZBxzjOtQC5-NejXjRk2pVnl7lPA8d_3IkW8C6o-xYqtd77kR6wUOTb4qOUcN6nddo5FPAZ0cFf-Dc8Y7wUvsykHIJRzgM.JFHzlC0epSk5rPHHL1vzRdcN65wot0lrDC-AGFyukTE&dib_tag=se&keywords=type+C+oil&qid=1749441510&sprefix=type+c+oil,aps,250&sr=8-4&th=1
 
I don’t think its the lower unit. I just tested the switch I bought that was brand new for $270. I checked continuity on forward and reverse with just the key on motor off and they both break continuity at about 15% throttle in either direction. Wouldn’t they have continuity all the way through full throttle either way? Thank u for any advice….
 
Neal Franson said:
If you read my recent thread, I'm due for another lower re-build. I was trying to think of what could cause that. Mine was a broken clutch spring, but it wouldn't work at all. Maybe they put the wrong oil in and the clutch spring is just spinning and can't grab hold beyond a certain rpm. I would empty the oil in the lower, as that is where your problem is. And the upper and intermediate, as they would have put it in there too. and then new Type C oil. Two quarts should be enough. I think Droid will back me up on this.
Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/Star-Brite-Premium-Type-Lower/dp/B002IV4RVC/ref=sr_1_4_pp?crid=7Z5SFHS2T868&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.egu015RTF3NrblfOUo-9MtpEiFEjubaTqZIF2RA428HTdNVo-27nUlHFRvj7dV-toemAYPyDBGod9mSnbEyx2ehtnmzEdmvULhSCZb9dwMZCczhGhE6Vw3Vj16C5h0BeYFKnIN-FtoLEt7lJr-oXCz2Pu8gQfQ7LA4zdO7vWVOQ2X3waYmuUx9BnCKTDaFA7vXEC3tghPIC4gKZBxzjOtQC5-NejXjRk2pVnl7lPA8d_3IkW8C6o-xYqtd77kR6wUOTb4qOUcN6nddo5FPAZ0cFf-Dc8Y7wUvsykHIJRzgM.JFHzlC0epSk5rPHHL1vzRdcN65wot0lrDC-AGFyukTE&dib_tag=se&keywords=type+C+oil&qid=1749441510&sprefix=type+c+oil,aps,250&sr=8-4&th=1
Click to expand...
I don’t think its the lower unit. I just tested the switch I bought that was brand new for $270. I checked continuity on forward and reverse with just the key on motor off and they both break continuity at about 15% throttle in either direction. Wouldn’t they have continuity all the way through full throttle either way? Thank u for any advice….
 
To answer the last 2 posts:

Neil's:
I have seen Mercury HP+ gear oil in a 235 OMC & yes it slipped under high power settings. I don't know if it would slip with 140 hp but......
All electric shifts, both I/O and outboards use Type C oil. The upper and intermediate housings can use regular old Hi-Vis oil, it doesn't matter.

SeaShark's:
I would agree that for some reason your problem is at the control. I've owned 5 of these beasts, 2 push button (Evinrude branded), 2 single lever (Johnson branded) & 1 concealed side mount (OMC branded). Never had a switch go bad.
 
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