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Shift cable removal on a DP-C Drive

J

jon_allen

Regular Contributor
Hi Guys,

Is there a special tool for removing the shift cable from a DP-C transom shield? It looks like a 1"1/8 weatherhead socket will do the trick. I'd just like to know before I buy one.




Thanks,
Jon Allen
 
Jon, on the DP-C drive, the shift cable slides down through a rubber sheathe.
The sheathe is intended to have the inboard end up high, and above water level.
The shift cable itself is a "wet" cable beyond this point!

There is no need to do anything but slide the cable up and out of this sheathe, once disconnected from the Intermediate housing and the bell crank attachment point.

I would advise checking the sheathe "crimp sleeve", as these can become rusted, and will eventually let go of their compression on the rubber sheathe.

.
 
Hi Ricardo,

Thanks for your help. I was'nt aware of how the cable passed thru the sheathing. I will probably want to remove the sheathing anyhow as Mapp gas will not free the trim pins and I'm going up to O/A for heat. I don't want to melt the sheathing like I melted the cable. Oops. I have the PDS shaft puller that I made, it's not 100% finished but it works perfectly. If you need it just let me know. The best part of owning a V/P drive is having a forum with folks like you onboard.


Thanks Again,
Jon Allen
 
Jon, two suggestions for you:

Be very careful when using Oxi/Acet on the aluminum.
I would not advise using it!

If you do......... be sure that you are NOT using an Oxigen Rich flame.
And if you do use it, pick yourself up a heat stick crayon of the appropriate temperature for Volvo aluminum components.


The sheathe fitting will very likely be all but impossible to remove.
You may cause more damage trying to remove it, than if you were to cut the crimp sleeve and just remove the rubber hose.
Re-install with an ALL SS worm drive clamp of the appropriate hose diameter so that the "flat" under the worm drive screw contours correctly to the rubber hose.
This is a very important fitting to be completely water tight.... and for years to come!
 
Last edited:
Hi Ricardo,

Thanks again. I'll try the Mapp gas again. Now that I've removed the clamping ring I might be able to concentrate the heat better. What do you recommend coating the trim pins with to avoid this problem in the future?



Thanks.
Jon Allen
 
Plain ole water proof grease as per Volvo Penta.

When you do get these removed, look to see if anything ressembles automotive "Never-Seez" or "Anti-sieze" on them.
The use of these products (and I love these products in the right scenario) will lock things up tightly when subjected to wet areas!
The auto versions contain conductive materials..... but the automotive versions should NEVER be use below the water line!
 
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