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Shift Cable End

C

cncscout

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"In the process of re-assembli

"In the process of re-assembling after Gimbal bearing, water tube, and bellows replacement on my 1979 Searay with a 228 Stern Drive. I didn't understand the Clymer book when it said to cut the Shift cable. So I didn't. Also, I was unable to get the brass fitting out of the bell housing. Therefore, I never really got the Bell Housing completely removed. However, I did (ever so carefully) remove the shift cable stop that goes into the shifting mechanism. I did not lose any cable. What can I use to replace the swedged on cable end. Should I trust a crimped on connector? They seem awful soft to withstand pushing and pulling required. Please Help."
 
"Duane
Do yourself a favour a

"Duane
Do yourself a favour and replace the cable complete while you are there, otherwise you will be in trouble later, swedging an end on the cable will not be succesfull.
That brass end on the outer cable can be a real bitch to get out of the bell housing, I have had to use heat before to get them loose but you may as well persever while you are there, if you undo the cable inside the boat you will be able to pull the bell housing off by extracting the whole cable with it.
Should you end up stuffing the brass end of the cable completly, you may have to drive the cable out through the centre of the brass end and then carefully drill the fitting out and helicoil the hole in the bell housing, you can then screw the new cable in.
for the life of me I cannot remember the size of the Helicoil required for the shift cable but I have them at work so I can check on it if you need to know but I am sure someone else will be able to tell you off the top of their head.
Good Luck
Cheers
Peter C"
 
"Peter:

I am a firm belie

"Peter:

I am a firm believer in the use of "NEVER SIEZE" to prevent the condition Duane is dealing with now, specifically the type used for spark plugs and aluminum heads. Have you ever used it in areas other than the water circulating pump bolts that protrude thru the water jacket of the block or where a connector does not require a really tight connection due to the stress or torque load placed upon the bolt or screw?

For example, I placed a tiny amount on the threads of the mounting screws of the new fuel sending unit I installed on the tank since the old screws were corroded after years of contact with a dissimilar metal and had to be drilled out and retapped. I would like your's and anybody elses' expert opinions. Thanks.

Guy"
 
"Do exactly what the other guy

"Do exactly what the other guys have said and replace that cable altogether. It WILL cause nothing but greif if you don't. One way or another get the brass piece out and when the new one goes in apply NS, marine grease or aviation seal to it just in case any of us must work on it at later date.
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"
 
"Guy

I love the old never s

"Guy

I love the old never sieze, I use it on everything,spark plugs,manifold bolts,waterpump bolts,head bolts,you name it I use it.

After all, how many times have you spent an hour just trying to remove one bolt that was in a mongrel of a place and was thread bound with corosion.

The only thing is, I make sure, the one I use is NOT based on copper.

I think my 2 favourite things I use when assembling anything around a marine engine, or in fact an automotive engine, is Never Sieze and Loctite No3 Non Hardening aviation grade sealant.


Cheers
Peter C"
 
I did. That was a $90.00 mista

I did. That was a $90.00 mistake. I should have read the book better. Then I would have just pulled out the inner cable with the shift lever.
 
"Duane
Look on the bright sid

"Duane
Look on the bright side, you wont do that again will you.
The first one I ever did I didnt read the manual properly either and I too paid the price.
Its all a learning experiance.
Cheers
Peter C"
 
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