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Sheared off woodruff key/keyway....HELP

C

cody_stl

Member
So if you have read my other posts on my boat ( http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...24-New-Jon-Boat-Problem-(&p=387956#post387956 ) , you would know I have done ALOT to get this motor running properly. Today, I was given a shred of hope as I tore up the river, engine humming like it should....only to have it shattered when a mile up river the engine abruptly died...and would not start again. On the side of the river I was able to determine that I had no spark...none at all.

When I got home ( after rowing a mile against wind), I pulled the flywheel to check points, etc. I then saw the problem, the key in the crankshaft that slides through the flywheel had sheared off. Thus, the timing was out of whack. This is the second time this key has sheared off. It was sheared off when I purchased the motor. Instead of replacing it with an evinrude part, I used a generic woodruff key from parts store. Now today, this key sheared off.

PROBLEM: the key sheared off flush with the crankshaft....I can't figure out how to get the remainder of the key out so I can replace it. The last time it had enough sticking out for me to grab hold of and pull it out. I don't have that luxury this time. Anyone have ways of getting this little piece of metal free of my crankshaft? If it includes a blow torch or anything crazy, I will have to take it to a pro.

Thanks
 
try using a pinpunch....do not use anything that will damage or mar.....replace it with a key from a marine parts dealer....preferably the key for that motor from an evinrude dealer...make sure you torgue the flywheel to specs...i dont have the specs...
 
Most people believe the key is holding the flywheel, it is NOT! It is just there to align the flywheel and get correct ignition timing. You may use any key or whatever you have to get it aligned, but be careful it is not to high from the crank and bottoms in the flywheel groove.
Use a small punch on the upper or lower part of the old broken key and it will flip out.
Degrease both crank cone and flywheel.
Get some valve lapping paste and carefully lap the cones together (flywheel and crank).(put engine in gear, block the prop from turning with a piece of wood between prop and cav plate)
Clean good with acetone, carb cleaner, install the new key and torque to correct value!!
 
It is not a standard woodruff key.-----You must use a factory key.-----------------As Haffiman says the key lines it up for proper timing.-----------The locking tapers drive the flywheel.----------So use the valve grinding compound to properly clean up the tapers. They will lock together when the correct torque is applied.
 
racerone said:
It is not a standard woodruff key.-----You must use a factory key.-----------------As Haffiman says the key lines it up for proper timing.-----------The locking tapers drive the flywheel.----------So use the valve grinding compound to properly clean up the tapers. They will lock together when the correct torque is applied.
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I disagree with the statement that you can't use a standard woodruff key. I have been using standard keys in my vintage Evinrude motors for years. I have 2 1962 40HP Larks and a 30 HP Lark. I bought keys at my local auto parts store and ground them to fit. The most important thing is that the key gets the flywheel lined up both horizontally and vertically. If you do that, and tighten the flywheel to the correct torque, a standard woodruff key will last forever.
 
When you grind it to fit it is no longer a " standard key "---We know how this stuff works !!--So why the argument ?
 
Boobie said:
As you said "ground them to fit". Don't have to do that with a factory key. O' Well, to each his own.
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I do it this way because I can't always just run to my local marine shop to pick this up. My Evinrude motors are older than I am, and I am not a young man. Grinding one that cost me .99 at the auto parts store can be the difference between fishing tomorrow, or waiting a week.
 
This thread is six years old my question is wait a week or row back every time you go out? You need to knock the burrs down on the crank and flywheel so they properly seat together. Otherwise it will keep happening.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
This thread is six years old my question is wait a week or row back every time you go out? You need to knock the burrs down on the crank and flywheel so they properly seat together. Otherwise it will keep happening.
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Why did you assume that I have breakdown problems?
Apparently I am pretty good at making them fit. I have never had to row back due to a woodruff key problem. My 40 HP Lark has had the same key that I ground down in it for 3 years and going strong. The woodruff key is not the only part I have had to make due to to availability. When you work on motors that are nearly 60 years old, you had better be able to fabricate some parts, or you're going to spend more time at home than on the lake.
I just bought a 30 HP 1956 Lark. I got it for $40 because the seller couldn't get it to run. Problem? Woodruff key. It cost me .99 to fix and I will probably sell that motor for a couple of hundred bucks. It runs great.
 
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Not every body knows what you know about fine filing, grinding and fitting of parts.-----When a novice on here post about shearing a key we advise them to get a factory key to solve the problem....----Much easier then trying to teach some folks to measure and fit stuff.
 
racerone said:
Not every body knows what you know about fine filing, grinding and fitting of parts.-----When a novice on here post about shearing a key we advise them to get a factory key to solve the problem....----Much easier then trying to teach some folks to measure and fit stuff.
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That's true. I believe that people are smart enough to know if they have the aptitude to attempt that stuff. Those who don't have the tools or the skill will probably buy the standard key. Others might decide to try and fail, and then try again until they get it right. Which ones do you think will learn the most from their experiences?
 
kkdlik said:
I disagree with the statement that you can't use a standard woodruff key. I have been using standard keys in my vintage Evinrude motors for years. I have 2 1962 40HP Larks and a 30 HP Lark. I bought keys at my local auto parts store and ground them to fit. The most important thing is that the key gets the flywheel lined up both horizontally and vertically. If you do that, and tighten the flywheel to the correct torque, a standard woodruff key will last forever.
Click to expand...

Yeah... right!
 
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