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Shaft flange installation question

B

bobct

Advanced Contributor
"I'm going to go ahead and

"I'm going to go ahead and replace my stuffing box and possibly the shaft logs after my post yesterday. Mark, Al... thanks I found some good write-ups on doing the alignment and the Crusader manual looks pretty good in this regard.

I was able to separate the flange from the transmission on one side. I understand the concept of using a short piece of pipe between the shaft and trans output flange and pressing the shaft out using the mounting bolts (will pick up some longer ones).

My burning question is does the flange then need to be pressed back ONTO the shaft? If so, how do you do that?

Bob"
 
"Bob, Our coupler was splined

"Bob, Our coupler was splined and once it was off (WHICH COULD HAVE BEEN A B!TCH ), we cleaned up everything adn it slip in place with just slight pressure.

Instead of using the short pipe and tightening the blots back, we bought a device at Harbor Freight called a porta power. Basically a 10ton hydraulic ram with an accessory piston that did fint in the core of the coulper sandwich. After bolting in at 3,6,9 and 12 o'clock, we just pumped the handle and it was " pressed" out.

Had we not used it I am almost be sure we would still be trying. Our coupler is also a split coupler so once you get a slight spread, it moves easily.

Again, it should slip back onto the splines"
 
"Bob:

Every solid coupler I

"Bob:

Every solid coupler I have removed from a shaft was changed out for a split coupler. I'd say it should be measured if it doesn't go back on easily. The rust will reduce the ID as it grows. (I had to split mine with a die grinder.)

If you have a torch, you can always expand it. Just watch the hammers as most shafting is pretty easy to deform."
 
"Just bolt the coupler back to

"Just bolt the coupler back to the gear, align the key in the shaft with the keyway in the coupler and tap the end of the shaft to get it back into place. Just be careful to not go too far. It works best with one guy on the outside and one guy inside watching for the index mark on the shaft to align with the set screw hole in the coupler."
 
"good deal, it sounds like I&#

"good deal, it sounds like I'll be able to get it back on assuming I can get it off first.

I inspected my shaft logs and they looked fine once I cleaned them up. They are triangular and 3 of the 6 bolt heads were broken off between the two sides. They bolts were SS though and not bonded well at all. I think I'll replace with bronze instead. I'm assuming the disimilar metals and poor bonding did them in.

I starting drilling holes into the broken studs and use a reverse threaded extractor but it got late...

When I got home I had an "ah hah" moment. I don't think the shaft logs are actually threaded and there are no nuts on the other end, exiting the boat underneath. I loosened two but only removed one bolt completely to get the size. I think what felt like "unthreading" was actually just the 5200.

I went on the Buck Algonquin website and I don't see any threads in the backing plate. After speaking with them, there's almost 100% chance they made them for Trojan originally along with the tiller arms and tie rods.

If true, I should be able to punch the studs out and be done with the shaft logs once I get some new hardware.

Mark, thanks for the add'l info.

Bob"
 
"Glad to help, Bob.

The tec

"Glad to help, Bob.

The tech support group at Buck is a great resource. If you have a flanged log, there should be a backup or reinforcing plate that matches the bolt pattern in the flange....should be thru bolts as well. I'd solicit Buck's recommendations and then follow them to the T and I'll bet you never have to repeat this repair again."
 
"Each of my shaft logs uses 14

"Each of my shaft logs uses 14 1/4" flat head screws. The original SS locknuts started to split, with crevice corrosion (my guess). I replaced all with silicon bronze, had to go with plain hex nuts and split washers, though. A good application for 3M101 sealant under the heads."
 
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