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set time on 1977 115 hp evinrude.

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boatbickle

Contributing Member
Same problem as before, just asking more questions. Could a timeing issue be the reason I get no spark on no plugs. The boat set for a year and it ran fine at that time. Now I get no spark at the plugs. I put a new battery in it and it cranks over good. Using a spark tester I get no spark at all. Power pack? stater, I dont know where to begin. How do I check power pack? is there points under the fly wheel?
 
There are no points.-----------------Timing generally does not go out of adjustment.-----------------If you have an ohmmeter you can check the charge coils and the sensor coils .---------------If those check good it may be the powerpack.------------------ You disconnect the big red plug and crank the motor over, If you now get spark there is a problem in wiring or keyswitch.
 
will the motor crank with the red plug disconnected??. I will try it tomorrow and get back with you. thanks. I know what the coils are I have one going to each plug, but what is a charge coil and the sensor coil?
 
Key switch will not work.You need to jumper the solenoid to make the motor crank.Or pull it over with a rope to check for spark , plugs out of course.----------------------------------The charge coils feed the ignition and the sensor coils ( electronic points so to speak ) both are under the flywheel and can be tested without removing the flywheel.--------------------Have you owned this motor for a long time , or just picked it up?-----------------A manual is a priceless investment if you intend to keep this motor for a while.
 
just picked up the motor two days ago. it is on a 1976 starcraft chieftain 18' The motor looks clean and turns over good. the young guy I bought it from said it ran good a year ago, I had no way of starting the motor at that time, but I did check comp with a gage and it was 120 or so on all. How do I check the coils with out removing the flywheel? I had a motor like this in the past and it ran forever and took a lot of abuse. I will invest in a manual if I cant get a spark after tying several things. thanks for your help. I am going to unhook the plug and see if I can get a spark by jumping the solenoid.
 
Find the wires from the powerpack that go to the stator ( brown I think ) do an ohm check on them ---Check #1 is wire to wire and #2 is one wire to ground.--------------Check sensor coils the same way I think they are marked.---------If you can not figure it out I will look at a motor and assist.
 
I pulled the red plug and jumped the motor over and got no spark. I am going to check the wires going to stator from power pack in a few minutes. might be hard doing it by myself if I have to jump it and hold the ohm meter. will get back with you. thank you.
 
ok, checked brown wires from stator. with ohm meter I put one one end on brown wire and the other on the neg at solenoid. I have voltage at wire on power pack the same with the other brown wire. how do I check if power pack is getting fire to 4 coils? I havent checked the charge coil and the sensor coil? dont know how. thanks.
 
Stop , stop untill you get more familiar with testing !!!--------------You are not looking for voltage on these charge coils. you are not looking for voltage on the sensor coils.-------You need to test the resistance ( ohms ) on these coils with an OHMETER.--------Unless you are sure on how to test this stuff , do not proceed.-----------------Look for a testing guide on the CDI electronics website.
 
I am not familiar with testing, you are right. That is the reason I am on here. I have all the equipment to check or rebuild the space shuttle. I need help with this old dinasour motor, I have no spark at the spark plugs, I have no spark even if I unhook the red plug and jump it over and I am using a spark tester. What I need to know is the best way to check to see if the power pack is bad. I dont know the terms when it comes to this motor, so laymans terms would be best. I work on steam turbines as a way of generating income and they are a lot bigger than this hog head motor. If all I needed was a manual there would be no need for me to come on this site to plead for help. Somthing simple is causing this motor not to spark and I can not figure it out. step by step would be greatly appriciated. I do have voltage going to the power pack even if I am not suppose to check for it.
 
I used to work on big steam turbines too. A set of one high pressure and 3 low pressure units producing over 1 million horsepower.-------------------The ignition system on your motor is what they call " magflash " and is self energizing and does not use 12 volts at all.
 
Stator under flywheel provides approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack in order to energize the ignition. You've already checked the spark directly at the engine by disconnecting the large RED electrical plug (eliminating the instrument harness, key switch etc).

Now, assuming the spark plugs are still removed, disconnect the black/yellow wire from the powerpack and check for spark again. You can plug that RED connector together if you wish in order to crank the engine with the key switch as having that black/yellow wire disconnected at the pack eliminates the kill circuit altogether. This test is to see if a possible short exists within the engine's wiring harness.

If you now have spark, suspect a short in the engine's wiring harness. If still no spark, assume that the powerpack has failed and replace it in order to have your sanity restored.
 
I have removed the black and yellow wire from the power pack and still no spark. Like you said, I assume the power pack is bad and I will buy a new one. But I do believe that my sanity will always be a little off. The older I get the worse it gets. I will post if the power pack fixes this old tin can. I am missing out on some good stripper fishing.
 
A final note on checking that black/yellow wire at the powerpack.

Ignition key set to OFF. With that wire disconnected from the pack, hook up a volt meter set at its lowest setting between that black/yellow and a powerhead ground. Note the meter reading BEFORE hooking it up (zero) and right when you hook it up (should not move). Now, observing the volt meter closely, have someone turn the key to the ON position... the meter should still read zero (no movement period).

If any voltage is present on that black/yellow wire, the slightest movement, even a microvolt, that will destroy a powerpack. Should any voltage be present, suspect and replace the ignition switch. The switch can be checked if need be by simply disconnecting that black/yellow wire from the switch, then running this voltage test directly on the related "M" terminal the wire was attached to.
 
Ok I have been waiting on power pack to come in mail for two weeks and I have it now. The power pack looks just like mine on a 1977 115hp evinrude. but the wire diagram on the cover is not the same. The instructions that came with it have the right diagram on it. I am thinking they sent the wrong part or the cover is the wrong one. the part number on the new pack is 1131731 and is the right one going by what I have found on the internet and on here. right power pack, wrong cover??? should I hook it up? I cant believe Iboats.com would screw this up like they did. they are not open at this time I need to wait untill tomorrow to call back. That dont garantee that they will know anything. any help would be nice. thank you
 
1977 evinrude 115 model number 115793s number on old power pack 581722 number on new pack sent by iboats is 1131731 The wire diagram on the new pack cover is different than my old power pack. it looks like the diagram is for a 3 or 6 cylinder motor? Wrong stickers on power pack?
 
The numbers on the powerpacks have very little to do with the actual part numbers. The part number you need is 581731. This power pack must have screw terminals for the four (4) timing sensors leading from the timer base under the flywheel and also the four (4) screw terminals for the orange primary coil leads.

On another note...... the older V6 models had two powerpacks which are similar in appearance to your powerpack but complete different, and these V6 powerpacks would interchange with the three (3) cylinder models.
 
your saying that I need part number 581731, Ok I will order it. Iboats sent me # 1131731 and tell me it is the right one. It is not the right one, but it looks very similar to my old one and has the same bolt pattern. I will be calling them tomorrow about shipping it back and getting the right one. when I first called I gave them my model# and they said I needed 1131731 and is the one I have in my hand now. I dont believe I will be going fishing this weekend. joereeves thanks for everything and if you have anymore information that would be helpful please dont hesitate to share it with me. iboats is telling me that 1131731 replaces 581731 ?????? maybe I should try and get my money back and get it somewhere different.

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You probably have the right part.

If Joe says it should be a 581731, then it should be a 581731. That is OMC's part number that you would order if you were buying OMC parts from an OMC dealer.

BUT....you bought a CDI part from Iboats. CDI packs start with "113" and end with the last four digits of the OMC number.."1731".
Therefore 113-1731 is the correct CDI part. CDI parts are FINE parts by the way.

As time ticks by, the engineers make slight modifications to the design of these parts. The result is that MAYBE the part will look different, but ACTUALLY will function the same.

You haven't stated the exact difference you are seeing...is it wire colors?....what?
 
Hmmm....I just looked up the 1977 115 (115793S) and the powerpack is OMC number 581895 which supercedes to 582056.
One powerpack only on this V4.

ImgProc.aspx
Click image to enlarge.
​
Part Number: 113-1731
Description: POWER PACK
Install Sheet: 113-1731.pdf
Replaces: 113-1731 18-5753 18-5756 581311 581731 581895 582056
 
the power pack itself looks just like mine and it has 113-1731 on a sticker on the back of it. The problem is that the cover that they sent with it has the wrong wire diagram on it. It is a wire diagram for a different motor. they sent me the wrong pack, or they sent me the wrong cover, or the stickers are wrong. I dont know how to tell if it is right or not. I called Iboats and they said they will be getting in touch with me in a day or two for me to send it back. I would like to keep it if it is the right one, dont know how to tell.
 
Oh i see now...look at the link i posted...there was a picture of the screws/terminals of the 113-1731. The link is in blue in my above post. See if the cover matches the pinouts shown there. Right by "Install sheet"....you will see it.
 
my old power pack cover matches the one you posted and is the one I need. I was sent a power pack 113-1731 with a different cover that dont match the pinouts that you posted. Something is messed up. Is there anyway to tell if I have the right pack by looking at the pack?
 
That one there i cannot answer. The pack has a sticker with 113-1731....but the cover doesn't match...maybe tech support at CDI can clue you in....but that detail, I just don't know.
 
By everything I've read powerpack 581731 is being replaced by powerpack #113-1731 . Daselbee's hyperlink pretty well spells it out..... but if the cover diagram is wrong??? Yeh, that would be confusing.
 
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