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Securing Hoses

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Misterrobot

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I am looking for advice on how to make the new cooling hoses easier to take off the engine and various other places. The hoses for my newly purchased ’81 Gibson haven’t been off. Probably not ever. So I cut the hoses off. Good thing as they should be replaced anyway. I don’t want to cut them off again, EVER. I put silicon on the inside of the hose to keep it from sticking. Is this a good idea? Am I asking for trouble while underway with hoses slipping off?

I assure you that my connections are tight and I put on new hose clamps. It’s just that I can rotate most hoses slightly even when the hose clamp is securely tight.

Thanks

Capt Ron

(3 months until the boat goes into the water!!!)
 
I have snap on "cotter pin" tool that is absolutely perfect for encouraging hose to release from the barb. A thin smear of a good grade of silicone grease shouldn't hurt. You should NOT be able to rotate the hose once the clamp is secured. Maybe its time for some good hose clamps to go with the new hose.

If you get the "embedded wire helix" type, I've found it beneficial to remove about 6" of each wire from the end of the hose before clamping it down. The amount to remove will vary with the pitch the reinforcing wire gets molded in at.
 
I have used that "hose Lube" before to install dnug hoses and it seems to work well. I have still had trouble removing hoses despite the application however. Since many of our hoses are removed seasonally, we dont get that crazy glued effect on all. On longer ones with access, when replacing....I spray silicone and use a slip joint pliers for grip and torque.

I sure you can overkill clamps depending on their application but for larger fittings 2" + I am now using the t-clamp instead of the worm gear type. Our nemesis has always been the left over clamp extending in free air. They slice like razors
 
Here's one source for the cadillac of clamps:
http://www.turbofittings.com/products/clamps/tbolt.asp

These are also of superior design:
http://www.idealclamps.com/catalog/clamps/detail.php?ID=28&SECTION_ID=42

The specific items that make a good clamp: stainless material, a wide band (prefer > 1/2" for cooling system hoses), & a liner or solid band to protect the hose underneath. On a hose that doesn't see regular removal, you can get away with the cheaper perforated bands (without the liner). Just my thoughts gleened from messing with this stuff for a few decades.
 
I'd think that most importantly would be the style of fitting that the hose is being secured to.
Do these offer a barb, a slip ridge, etc?
I'd not use silicone. Silicone has very little business being used anywhere on a boat, IMO.

Misterrobot said:
Thanks makomark! I had a feeling if it turned I would get burned! What do you recommend for GOOD hose clamps?
The wire type?
Capt Ron
Click to expand...
Ron, I also have an issue with the run-of-the-mill hardware store clamps.
The cuts for the worm drive screw, will cut and pull on the circumference of the hose ID while being tightened. This is not good!
These have little business being use on a Marine engine!
Avoid these if you can!
images


Best, IMO, to use an all SS British Style worm drive band clamp that offers ID hose chafing protection. Or what Mark has shown you.... the "lined" style.
These can be found at various suppliers.
Note that the worm screw drive, does not make a penetration through the band.
Volvo Penta AQ series drives use this style exclusively.

british-type-hose-clamp.jpg


The T-bolt clamps are good also.
However, I'm not comfortable using them on the smaller diameter hoses.


For fuel hoses, it it very important the the "flat" under the worn drive screw, match closely the diameter (or circumference) of the hose.
Too large, and you may have issues down the road.

.
 
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