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Replacing switchbox on 87 15hp merc tiller

T

Talon2

New member
Hi all- I'm looking for some install advice on replacing pn 339-7452A10 with an a19. Problem is I do not know where to splice the original wires. There are "boots" on the original but not sure if they need to stay on or not. Please see pics
Thanks in advance! e.jpgm.jpgr.jpg
 
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So the bullet connectors are inside of those (sleeves, boots, whatever you want to call them).

Carefully pull the wires to separate - you don't need to cut those off. They are just there to give you a good way to (store) the wires on the original switchbox so they don't get pinched, chaffed etc.

If your new switchbox doesn't have the molding in the (case) to snap them in, then just leave them off.

That "three way" wire is the stop circuit - has a single feed from the switchbox and the other two wires go to the on/off switch on the lower cowl and the second goes on through to the stop button at the end of the tiller handle. When you switch "off" or press the button in the end of the tiller, those wires will send the switchbox power "to ground" to stop the motor.

That three way (plug) is downstream of the bullet connector that attaches it to the switchbox, so should not be an issue when hooking the new one up. You need that (circuit) or you won't be able to turn the motor off....
 
galamb said:
So the bullet connectors are inside of those (sleeves, boots, whatever you want to call them).

Carefully pull the wires to separate - you don't need to cut those off. They are just there to give you a good way to (store) the wires on the original switchbox so they don't get pinched, chaffed etc.

If your new switchbox doesn't have the molding in the (case) to snap them in, then just leave them off.

That "three way" wire is the stop circuit - has a single feed from the switchbox and the other two wires go to the on/off switch on the lower cowl and the second goes on through to the stop button at the end of the tiller handle. When you switch "off" or press the button in the end of the tiller, those wires will send the switchbox power "to ground" to stop the motor.

That three way (plug) is downstream of the bullet connector that attaches it to the switchbox, so should not be an issue when hooking the new one up. You need that (circuit) or you won't be able to turn the motor off....
Click to expand...


THANK YOU. The sleeves do come apart and everything went smoothly. I searched the Internet for hours looking for any info whatsoever and obviously it had to be that simple. Thanks again friend! You're doing gods work ;)

I haven't tested anything yet but will do tomorrow!
 
fastjeff said:
Graham is dah man!

Jeff
Click to expand...

Finally got the boat out yesterday and it ran great. The problem I was having was when I would run wide open or any significant speed/load I would drop spark on one cylinder and would slow to limp mode or about 20% output. Just want to note that for the next poor guy looking at this thread that has the same problem.

P/N 7452A19 $214.91 SWITCH BOX ASSY - purchased on Amazon for $88 and installed myself saving another $125 for an hour of labor.

 
See? Switch boxes CAN fail when they heat up! Been saying that for years though the CDI technician disagreed--he claimed they were like a light bulb; they worked or not.

Jeff
 
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