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Replacing Risers and Elbows after winterized?

R

rmm

Regular Contributor
I want to replace my risers and manifolds this winter after winterizing the motors. They are FWC 1988 454s. How much of the antifreeze sits in these and will I lose if I remove them?

Also what shoudl I look for to determine if I shoudl replace the manifolds also?

Thanks
 
You will probably lose the majority of your A/F,what remains will most likely remain in the block ,gravity will pull some of that too. I just moved my heat exchanger and it took 2 1/2 gals. to replace what I lost doing that. As far as the manifolds, that's a tough call,20 years is good but they can last longer yours are 23 and they may look good from the outside but it's the water jackets inside that count and even if you get them pressure tested you still won't know how much metal has deteriorated. I've seen them last over 30 but I think that's pretty chancy. Mine are 21 and I think I'm pushing it. The risers and elbows were changed but I don't know how long ago, so I'm up in the air about them too. Some of the other guys will chime in and you'll be able to get a better idea when you hear more. If you can afford it I would change them all while you have it all apart,that way you won't have to disassemble it again in a year or two to do the manifolds....Good luck...Lee
 
First of all, if you do decide to do it now, be sure to drain the block and manifolds completely or you'll have coolant in the motor, which is hard to eliminate without running the motor.

I have a similar predicament with one of my engines; the riser on one side--after behaving itself all summer--decided to leak water into # 7. I was able to get the boat out okay, but was then faced with YOUR dilema: change it now, or wait 'til spring. It pains me to wait, but that's what I was forced to do.

Jeff
 
rmm said:
1.... I want to replace my risers and manifolds this winter after winterizing the motors.

2... They are FWC 1988 454s. How much of the antifreeze sits in these and will I lose if I remove them?

3.... Also what shoudl I look for to determine if I shoudl replace the manifolds also?

Thanks
Click to expand...
1.... I take it that the winterizing has not yet occured.

2.... Perhaps I'm not following some of you guys, but RMM suggests that his engines are FWC... (closed cooling systems).
He does not mention whether "Half" or "Full" systems.
Risers are always raw water supplied.... so there should be no anti-freeze in the risers themselves.
There may be anti-freeze in the manifolds (up to level of the two blocked-off mating surfaces)....... but again, no mention of "Half" or "Full" system.
Even if a "Full" system....., while removing risers ONLY, you should not loose more than what a few rags can catch.... yes/no?

3..... RMM, if you have concerns for anti-freeze here, would it be safe to assume that the FWC system is a "Full System"?
(I.E., the system includes the exhaust mans).... (**or perhaps you are concerned about anti-freeze that has been used for winterizing the exhaust mans)
If a Full System, then manifolds generally last quite a few more years than if Raw Water cooled.


In either event, there should be NO need to drain the E/G from the engine block, unless you want to replace it.
To pull the exhaust mans, simply remove the drain plug and/or a coolant hose, and catch either the Raw Water or the E/G..... then remove them and inspect them.


I would strongly suggest that you crack all bolts loose while the engine is warm.... don't risk snapping one off.
You can remove them later after all cools back down.

** if using anti-freeze to winterize exhaust manifolds, be very careful to avoid anti-freeze dilution via any residual sea water.
Most OEM service manuals will suggest draining these after installing anti-freeze....., allowing the residual "anti-freeze" to provide the rust protection.
Just Plain ole Air Won't Freeze and Expand! :D


.
 
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And if you do replace the manafolds always and I mean always replace the bolts. Don't risk having one break off as you torque them down again.
 
Crusaders of that vintage are almost always "full" so the manifolds are full of EGW. If the existing coolant is good, you should be able to drain it and catch it so loss will be minimal.

The manifolds should last a long time...the driver is the maintenance done on the cooling system. If the coolant's condition was 'kept up' the manifolds shouldn't be an issue. The risers/elbows are different and need regular replacement. You'll have to drain the HX and the manifolds before separating any parts...contaminated coolant won't be kind to your engine's block.
 
Rick...I was responding mostly to the manifold portion of his question and I assumed he has a full FWC system, of course he could try to catch it all, but from the way he worded his question I figured he was just going to open the system and wondered what quantity he would lose once he pulled the manifolds. ..Lee
 
The problem, as I noted, is that the motor HAS to be run after the manifolds are replaced to make damn sure no coolant got in. No way would I do this repair after the boat is put away for the winter and can not be started up. In fact, I have an elbow to repair on one of mine and are forced to wait until Spring (which ticks me off!)

Jeff
 
you're right , Jeff...better to wait till spring, unless he wants to winterize it all over again when he's finished.
 
if there's no pre-existing condition & the HX and manifolds get drained, how is coolant gonna get into the engine?
 
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