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Replacing Crusader nylocks...

Island Bob

New member
First time pulling the risers on a set of 270s and noticed that at some point the previous owner had replaced one of the big Crusader brass nylocks holding the riser to the manifold with a regular-size stainless nylock. It's held up fine and leak-free for the four years I've had the boat.

The threads on a few of the Crusader nuts I've pulled look soft and I want to replace. Anybody know if there's a compelling reason to go with the Crusader nuts instead of regular nylocks at a tenth the price?

Thanks
 
They'd love you to buy theirs! Other than that, no.

Jeff

PS: If those are stainless studs, be sure to lubricate them with anti-seize or... Kinda defeats the value of the nylocks, right?
 
I think that the SS nylocs would be OK.

The thread length may be shorter than the big Crusader brass nylocks......, so I would snug them down, and then re-tighten them after warmed up.


.
 
Thanks guys. The big brass ones sure look purty, but 16 of them at $10 a pop... If not necessary then I'll go with the ss and re-torque.
 
Fine, but DON'T use stainless on stainless or you will be very sorry someday--possibly when you install them.

SS nuts on SS bolts/ studs tend to gall and seize unless the threads are lubricated (which cancels out the nylock function).

Jeff
 
Good point, Jeff. The ss cold weld issue must be why they use the brass. Certainly worth extra money not to snap off a stud in the manifold. All the nuts that have been on the shorter ss studs running from top of riser through fresh water adapter and then the elbows are ss, though, at least on my engines. Of course they may have replaced something else over the years. Can't find a Crusader spec for those nuts other than size. I haven't had much luck getting Crusader to reply to questions, but I'll try them again. Thanks
 
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