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Replacing bellows 270 outdrive

D

dmanars

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"ok from what I just read and

"ok from what I just read and researched, I have to remove the whole outdrive to replace the bellows right? And can I change both bellows at the same time when it is off. also Im a little confused about the U-joint. In the solec manual it doesnt say anything about disconnecting it. Or does the U-Joint slide off as I pull the outdrive back? and when I lube the ujoint, do I just slap it on?"
 
Yes the u-join will just slip

Yes the u-join will just slip off. Just pull it straight off. it is lining it back up when putting it on that is tougher. To lube the ujoint u need a lube gun with a grease fitting and you apply grease until it comes out of the joints from inside out.
 
"You can also remove just the

"You can also remove just the upper gear assembly. However, I normally remove the hinge pins from the fork and the transom shield,then slide the outdrive back a few inches. This is not the method that the manual describes, but I found it has its advantages: you don't disturb gaskets or the outdrive sealing integrity; no debris can enter the outdrive; and if the hinge pins are removed every now and then they will not become seized.

One thing you may want to consider is coating the surfaces in the outdrive in contact with the bellows with "perfect seal", "Loctite sealing compound", or even "bellows cement" like in Mercruisers. This will ensure a better watertight integrity and will prevent corrosion in those areas."
 
would anyone happen to know th

would anyone happen to know the size of the allen wrench on the steering helmet ( 3 allen bolts)
 
"OK I finally replaced my bell

"OK I finally replaced my bellows and cleaned the carbs off my aq130c 270. and I started it up and she sounds wonderful. She has a high idle, but I know how to fix that. I am concerned with one thing though.I attached my hose to her and started her up. well I had her at idle and I checked to see if my props work and they do. thank god. But she seemed to get hot pretty fast and when I felt the drive it seemed kinda warm. and there isnt as much water exiting like it used too. In changing my bellows could i have damaged the water intake? Or is it the really high idle that is doing it? there is a little water exiting and nothing is dripping from where I replaced anything. Anyone have any ideas?"
 
ok I fixed the idle today.but

ok I fixed the idle today.but the over heating is still the problem. Im convinced its the water intake. just dont know where to start.
 
RE: "I attached my hose to

RE: "I attached my hose to her and started her up"
And exactly how did you attach the hose and where?
 
"I attach the hose to the outd

"I attach the hose to the outdrive and turned the water on, like I always do when running the engine outside bodies of water. well I tried trouble shooting today, adjusted the idle while I was there. The only thing I didnt replace was the gasket to the water intake hose. Thats the only thing I think could be the problem, maybe the gasket has failed. So Im going to order it and go from there. If anyone think they have some good info let me know cause I really could use it. LOL Trial and error gets expensive after awhile lol"
 
"1) Generally you can'

"1) Generally you can't run an engine on a hose much above idle RPMs.

2) Did you block the hole at the bottom edge of the drive below the "gills" when you attached the muffs?

While its a bit more work, I've always run my engines out of the water by...

1) Disconnect the hose from the inlet of the water pump.
2) Attach a short hose ( 3 to 4 ft) to the pump inlet.
3) Fill a 5 gal pail with water and stick the other end of hose to the water pump into the bottom of the pail.
4) Leave a hose with a water supply running into the pail.

On a big V8, even at idle the best you get a min or two of run time... with a smaller engine you may get more...maybe even continuous operation at idle.

I don't like "muffs" not one little bit.
On all of my boats.. ( 1 Volvo 4 banger and 2 V8s...one a 250 drive, the other converted to a 280) I've: Changed to thru hull water inlet with a strainer and installed a "T" with two valves (both 1/4 turn bronze and stainless)...
one Valve threads directly onto the raw water scoop fitting, the other onto the "T" with the other end to a garden hose fitting. The 3rd leg of the "T" goes to the water pump..All fittings have to be bronze (except the garden hose fitting). I attach a short length of garden hose to the hose fitting and stick the other end in a 5 gal pail ....etc...etc.

This gives me a way to flush the system with fresh water after running in salt water all day. Also a good way in the fall to fill the system with antifreeze."
 
sounds good. Although Im havin

sounds good. Although Im having a little trouble visualizing it cause Im a noob. I might have to look in to that.
 
I have an AQ130C and I just do

I have an AQ130C and I just do the "hose in pail" as Robert explained above. Just make absolutely sure that the water hose feeding the pail stays in the pail otherwise you can easily run your engine "dry" without realizing it and that's obviously not good. I've thought about installing a "T" valve ahead of the water pump but I'm hesitant due to the potential of water and/or air leaks that might be introduced.
 
I have had a T piece in my AQ1

I have had a T piece in my AQ145a for years and it is plumed into the line just before the sea pump with a gate valve and a hose fitting connector.It a permanant fixyure and works exec.
 
"Im liking this T thing. Ill b

"Im liking this T thing. Ill be taking my boat on some bay trips this year, so I think Ill install one. Ok so am I puting this right before my pump from the intake hose to the water pump or somewhere after the pump. Oh where can I get the valve. Home depot? and if someone has a pic it would help a lot. Hehe. Dont think there is any hurt in asking"
 
"I have mine installed about 1

"I have mine installed about 1 foot back form the inlet side of the sea pump under the carby inlet manifold,it seems to be in a acceable area."
 
"I''m a big fan of thr

"I''m a big fan of thru the bottom of the hull raw water inlets, ESPECIALLY if you boat in an area where you are likely to run into the odd sandbar or mudbank. If you go to my website and click on "photos", there are some photos of both the raw water inlet scoop and the valve arraingement as well as some others.

http://home.comcast.net/~rfierro"
 
"Stan, can you point me to a v

"Stan, can you point me to a valve similar to the one you have installed? Thanks."
 
"Robert, was looking at your t

"Robert, was looking at your through hull water intake conversion. Looks cool, but where did you get the actual intake grate and how big of a hole or "square" did you have to cut into your hull. Also, I have twin 4 cylinders in my boat, so if I wanted to run this type of system, would I have to have 2 holes in my boat or would the one feed enough water for both moters?"
 
"Matt:
Whatever system, fuel,

"Matt:
Whatever system, fuel, cooling electrical -when multiple engines always run on separate systems for each engine.
That means one water inlet for each engine, one suction line with separate filters from fuel tank to engine. As for electric, separate start batteries for each engine, but with possibilities of cross connecting manually."
 
"Now if you do run into a mud

"Now if you do run into a mud bank or a sand bar wouldnt you clog, your intake on the hull intake system? I like it too, and I am considering that intake conversion that's why Im asking"
 
"John,

Where I boat, one fr

"John,

Where I boat, one frequently finds sandbars or channel edges with the props/drive units only and rarely make hull contact. Hull intakes don't in all cases eliminate crap intake, but unless you run the hull hard aground, reduces it."
 
"Matt... The inlet screen use

"Matt... The inlet screen uses a standard thru hull inlet. Not a square hole.

This isn't the one I used, but the one I wished I had. Also good writeup on the installation.

http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/strainers.htm

The "clamshell" scoops while touted as filtering out grass, do not... These are the ones the size of your hand with "slots" in them. "
 
"Robert, I understand how the

"Robert, I understand how the external parts work now, thank you. However, I'm still confused as to what happens to the strainer that is attached to the starboard side of the engine. There is a brass pipe that runs from the strainer to the exhaust manifold, I assume this is the outlet. But if this is no longer to be used, am I supposed to remove the strainer element from this unit. I guess i just don't quite know how I'm supposed to route things in the engine compartment."
 
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