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Replacement suggestions for MERCARB

Hi,
I have a 91 Merc. 3.0LX that is in good shape,but seems to be alittle low on power. I did a compression check and all 4 cyl. are consistent from a cheap gauge borrowed from AutoZone(read 180lbs)
Anyway, I rebuilt the original carb w/o any improvement and bought a "rebuilt" one w/ very little improvement and have determined that 99% of these old carbs leak air around the butterfly shafts due to wear on the hole drilled into the body of the carb.
I haven't found anyone who will drill out the hole and put in a bushing..
So my question: Does anyone know which companies(Holley, Carter,..) has a direct replacement for the MERCARB ( It looks like a old Rochester 2bbl).
And where is the best place to purchase it from?
Thanks a bunch !
JT
 
Welcome aboard !

180 is high, could be a bad gauge they were even then that's good.

You are right they are a copy of the rochester 2cg carb.

Your timing is good ?

No vacuum leaks around the BASE OF THE CARB ?

wot is what, i usually run only a few minutes back into the dock with a half tank of gas and one other person.

Speed is not what you need to know wot, rpm.

You say " low on power " can you elaborate a bit ?

My friend has a 93' same motor as your in a classic 19' cuddy.
 
Chiefalen,
Thanks for the response!
lack of power is that I can barely get a grown up (over 150LBs) out of the water with a power prop.
The boat idles fine and runs at top end fine.. Throttling up seems to be where the problem is..
If it had a accelerator pump on it, I'd say I needed to change it..(If I rev the motor up w/o out being in gear, it seems to be slow to respond, but doesn't stumble.)
I don't think I have a vacum leak at the base, but not sure how to test that.
I could play with the timing I guess. Any suggestions? (I do experience "dieseling" if I run the boat hard and try to shut off the motor before letting it idle for a few minutes.) This is another reason I was thinking I have a carb problem.(dumping too much gas into the intake or dripping after throttling down.
What do you mean by wot?
Thanks again for your thoughts!
JT
 
Test a vacuum leak at the base by using WD 40. WHile the motor is at idle spray the base of the carb with WD (only the base) and if the idle changes.....yup you have a leak.

When you rebuilt the carb did you use a marine accelerator bump in the carb (A specific marine type one) or one just for a carb?? There is a huge performance difference between the two. I have been through the same routine with the 3.0L

Lastly, is there a chance you have water logged foam in the boat that is 20 years old??? say 400-500 lbs worth!

WOT means Wide Open Throttle.
 
wide open throttle. Wot. Your motor has a recommended wot of 4200-4600 rpm.

You have a cuddy ? We cut a hole in the deck of my friends cuddy and it was water logged we did pull out about 300 pounds of wet foam.

What pitch are you running ?

I read you last post you didn't say you rebuilt it.

Ok say there is no water in the hull. Maybe you have water in the fuel. Follow the fuel hose to the tank, unscrew the 90% fitting.

That fitting is a one way valve make sure it's clean.

Crank the bow up ans stick a hose into the back lower corner of the tank and pump out the gunk and water off the bottom. Reinstall the fitting and hose.

The carb has a filter in the fitting that enters the carb clean it.

[FONT=Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif]Get yourself down to a auto parts store, get a can of berrymans carb soak comes with a screen in the can, like a deep fryer.

Also get a can of compressed carb cleaner.And a carb rebuild kit.

With a clean area on a table or bench i place a old cookie sheet with sides.

Break down the carb and remove all the rubber.

Remove the jets they should just screw out.

Everything goes into the berrymans, let soak for a few hours.

Well it should be a couple hours a beer and a little work another beer and a little more work hell might be 5 hours who knows.

Remove the parts from the berrymans, start with the lower carb housing and blow it dry with compressed air, it clean?

Piece by piece build it, make sure every passage is clean blow it dry and use compressed can carb clear blow it dry again.

Jets clean, Float, floating no gas in it ?

Push the float under water and if you see bubbles it's time to replace it.

Ok when you install the pin in the forks that hold the float are they pressing on the float tounge and not allowing the float to move freely ?

So if you did your job correctly the carb should operate freely, and when you install the adjustment screws be gentle.

Do not bend the tips. All the way in with them gently and out 2 turns to start.

Final adjustment on the water.

Have someone else drive about 2000 rpm maybe a little more and you do the final adjustment.

If you take your time and there are no distractions, you should be ok.

Good luck !
[/FONT]

List of possible causes of low WOT

List of possible causes of low WOT (Wide Open Throttle) rpm.

In no particular order

Engine Won't Reach Operating RPM. Check

1. Fuel condition. Type and Octane possibly old fuel
2. Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades
3. Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test
4. Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse
5. Marine growth on hull and outdrive
6. Wrong gear ratio in outdrive
7. Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor)
8. Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive
9. Poor cylinder compression Compression Test
10. Carburetor defective, or wrong type.
11. Fuel pump pressure and vacuum
12. Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed.
13. Engine Overheating
14. Engine timing and ignition system operation
15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully.

Above copied and pasted from another website Don s is the author.
 
Change the accellerator pump rod position to the other hole for a stronger shot of fuel. Decarbon the engine w/Mercury product or SeaFoam. The base gasket needs to be a thick one for a Mercarb or it is difficult to get the mixture set right and won't idle worth a crap.
 
Hmmm.Interesting questions...
I boughty the rebuilt carb from one of the "rebuilders" online and don't know what parts they used, so I will buy a rebuild kit and rebuild it myself..
I never thought about "soaked" foam.. I will run it accross a scale and see what it shows.

If all else fails does anyone know if Holley or another manufacturer sells a NEW BBL carb to replace it?

Thanks!
JT
 
Guyjg,
Thanks, I will change the podition of the rod and see how it responds.
Is seaform safe to use? I've heard mixed opinions.. I'm about ready for a oil change and it would be a good time to use it before changing the oil.
 
If all else fails does anyone know if Holley or another manufacturer sells a NEW BBL carb to replace it?

Your question above referring to the 3.0L was discussed sometime back. I believe the concensus from all of the long experienced guys was there is nothing available for this engine that will improve performance.

Chiefalen, Bondo, Kghost, et al: Do you remember that discussion?
 
Best thing is to use an appropriate prop for pulling a skier, An all around prop will give all around results.

A proplematic carb will cause running issues not slow to respond. It sounds like a over pitched prop = slow acceleration.

A 15 pitch or even a 13 pitch will help yank a 150 lb er out well enough.

WHat is your boat size?

What is a power prop?

Holley makes or made a marine 2 bbl carb, Used on OMC's for years....possibly other maunfacters also.
 
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