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Repair Kit or parts for Cooling 1993 Mercruiser 3.0

delVincent

delVincent

Member
Thank you everyone for all of the help so far with my boat. The specifications including serial numbers are at the bottom of the text in this email. My questions relate to cooling hoses, thermostat, and hose connections I removed for winter maintenance and flushing- I wish I could keep the boat in the heated garage.

Anyway, I attached three images including the diagram of the exhaust manifold with part numbers. I think that I found replacement parts EXCEPT part 31, the elbow that fastens the hose between the transom and thermostat. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to get a replacement for part 31?

I want to replace the hoses and fittings. because it was really difficult to get separate them from the thermostat housing and both the hoses and mating fittings are degraded due to corrosion. I want to also replace the thermostat.

So far I found the following kits and parts:

861493A07 thermostat housing kit that includes the hose between the exhaust manifold and thermostat housing.
32-8M0071007 hose between the thermostat and block. This is part 39 on the attached diagram.
54-815504232 clamp for the above hose, part 40 on the diagram.
32-8M0062634 hose between transom and thermostat housing, part 17 on the attached diagram.

I appreciate any feedback, suggestions, or confirmation on parts I listed or additional parts I should get.

Thank you all again for everything.

Vince





Boat Specifications
1993 Chaparral 180 SL Limited with a Mercruiser 3.0, Alpha 1, Generation 2 power train. This power train includes XD hydraulic cylinders for the Power Trim.
Engine, 0F005343 (430B1003S).
Transom, 0F040195, (6010000FS).
Outdrive, 0D893909 (50101983S).
 

Attachments

  • 120125-01 exhaust manifold.png
    120125-01 exhaust manifold.png
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  • 120125-02 engine showing cooling hoses.jpg
    120125-02 engine showing cooling hoses.jpg
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  • 120125-03 engine showing cooling hoses.jpg.png
    120125-03 engine showing cooling hoses.jpg.png
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They look like the 90* fittings on the exhaust manifolds on my OMC. Hose ID is 3/4”, not sure of the thread. Made of brass I think.
 
Thanks for the replies. I will take the cover off of the engine compartment when we have a warm spell and get measurements. Removing the cover is the hardest part. If I ever get another boat it might be an outboard or jet boat instead of a stern drive due to the work involved in getting to the engine compartment.
 
I looked for the Hose 90* part Item 31. NLA everywhere and NO description of its size.

Here is a link to a Barbed fitting. It shows its measurements but it is only for reference.

1/2" Male NPT x 3/4" Brass Hose Barb Elbow

www.suremarineservice.com www.suremarineservice.com

What you need to do is get these measurements. (ID=Inside diameter, OD = Outside diameter)
1. Barb ID and OD
2. Threaded section, Either the thread OD ~ mid way or match it to a known NPT thread size and The Threaded end ID.

A simple scale will do but if you have vernier calipers that would be best

Many of us have lots of spare parts from many engines and may have one laying around so lets get the specific measurements and maybe we can find one in our parts inventories.
 
delVincent said:
Thanks for the replies. I will take the cover off of the engine compartment when we have a warm spell and get measurements. Removing the cover is the hardest part. If I ever get another boat it might be an outboard or jet boat instead of a stern drive due to the work involved in getting to the engine compartment.
Click to expand...
I/O's are a great boat, What matters is the boat manufacturers design. Chaparrals are well made boats. Also Once this is done you may not need to remove the entire cover.

One other note, Depending on how you winterize your engine, Maybe there is a simpler way. You may want to ask and review your method. Many of us have winterized hundreds if not thousands of boats. It is not often at all that parts replacement is needed in an Inline 4 cylinder as they are 99% of the time used in fresh water only. The pics of your engine do not show any corrosion. It seems odd that you need new parts.

Its also possible the previous owner(s) did not manually winterize the engine but flushed it or had a shop flush it. That may be why the hoses were difficult to remove as flushing does not require any removal of anything.
 
Great feedback once again.

I look forward to discussing flushing options that don't require as much access. Can you pump the antifreeze thru the earmuffs and get a thorough flush without removing the drain plugs?

I will post some pictures to illustrate how I get access to the engine. I agree my boat is made really well; I don't have any deterioration at all in the hull, frame, or deck. Access to the engine is really a workout even for routine maintenance like checking oil plus it is wear and tear on the upholstery both on the cover and the nearby seats.

I also need to show some pictures of the corrosion I described on the fittings which resulted in some pitting. Hopefully there is another 30+ years left in the wall thickness of the fittings!

Maybe we will get a warm spell and I will get back into the engine compartment to get the pictures. I want to get feedback before buying replacement parts. I did purchase the kit for the impeller replacement, but I won't actually replace it for a while so that the new impeller doesn't just sit in the housing without moving for months and take a set.

I think a thermostat replacement is a good idea, but let me know what you suggest....... Maybe the thermostat will last the life of the boat????

Thank you all again for the helpful discussion.
 
Impeller replacement for Alpha 1 Gen II drives is typically not required as often as the Gen I.

That being said,
If this boat is new to you, I always try to base line a new to someones boat outdrive.
I will drain gear lube, Pressure check, then drop lower unit and replace impeller with a new kit. There is also a vertical drive seal under the impeller base plate, Its good to replace that also. There is a "dam" that separates the intake path from the exhaust path that requires confirmation that it is still there and in very good condition. If not it should be replaced.
Once all that is done, reassemble the lower to upper and re-pressure check and if it passes, Refill with gear lube. (note: some details left out as this is just advice)

I personally do not recommend the Flush method for winterizing But I know many who do it that way and a few indy shops that do it also.

I have always manually winterized every boat I have worked on.

One thing all Boat techs learn, Engine covers often have to be removed for any engine work at all. Cant begin to count how many i have had to remove to do work........Its part of the process for some boats. Just be glad you dont have to hang upside down to service an engine. My boat is one of those......I converted the on engine oil filter to a remote mount just for that reason. Got tired of hanging upside down to replace it every year.

If a boat is used in fresh water only, The thermostat can last a very long time, But, If this boat is new to you then this will most likely be a Once and done for the time you own it so I would say YES this one time.

Keep in mind This boat is at least 25 years old so dont assume anything.. That way you may be able to keep it going another 25 years
 
New exhaust on OMC V6 with longer bolts for alignment.jpg

Look at the fitting at the front of this V6 exhaust manifold, the hose side is for a 3/4" ID hose, the threaded portion is NPT and the same thread as the plugs on both ends of the manifold, I think you need something like this but you need to verify the hose ID and the NPT threads first.
If you can remove that part #25 take it to a good hardware store and have them measure the NPT threads inside, then just measure the ID of the hose that attaches to the other side.
These 90* elbows don't have to come from Merc or Volvo, you can order them from online machinist places and will for sure be cheaper. Just make sure you understand what you're ordering there are many variations and it can get confusing.
 
Agreed with everything above. Thanks again for the info. I can measure the threads and other geometry for the elbow and will post the results.

One reason I asked about the part now is to have everything ready for the maintenance so I don't have to start and stop but it looks like I will have to do that for this part.

This is a good website. I wish it was warm 12 months of the year......
 
delVincent said:
Agreed with everything above. Thanks again for the info. I can measure the threads and other geometry for the elbow and will post the results.

One reason I asked about the part now is to have everything ready for the maintenance so I don't have to start and stop but it looks like I will have to do that for this part.

This is a good website. I wish it was warm 12 months of the year......
Click to expand...
if you cant find the exact fitting would be easy to make out of a brass threaded street elbow, and a MNPT to hose barb adapter. WIlling to bet you can get it through a decent local hardware store or HD.

here is a list of options from Mcmaster carr

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
I definitely have some options on the elbow.

Thank you to everyone here. I look forward to more of this collaboration.

Again, I wish it was warm all year and/or had a closed coolant system so I could get out during warm winter days.
 
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