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Removing manifolds the less painful way

fastjeff

fastjeff

Gold Medal Contributor
"First of all, unless you'

"First of all, unless you're certain the bolts will "come right out", do NOT try to unscrew the manifold bolts! Why? 'Cause if you're wrong, the bolt will twist off at the head, which means "easy out" time at the least, and the machine shop time (heads off) at the worst. I know it's tempting to just....go at it, but...

Instead, try this:

1. CAREFULLY (remember, hours of misery are at stake here) try to remove one bolt in the most accessible spot--somewhere you can center punch and drill a broken bolt the easiest. (Ah-hem!)

2. If the bolt will come right out after it's been in there since Reagan was President, then try another accessible bolt. And if they all come out, quick! Buy a lottery ticket! You're on a roll.

3, Back to reality... When you can't get that first, rusty old bolt to turn, STOP trying! Either grind the heads off, or center punch the bolts and drill the heads off (a safer method).

4. With the bolt heads removed, wedge the manifolds off with wooden wedges.

5. Finally, soak the remains of the bolts with lots of your favorite penetrating oil and let them sit over night. Next, using vice grips, start working the bolts---back and forth, back and forth--until they want to come out. Don't simply go at them with a pipe wrench or (See # 1 above). Patience!

Good luck!

Jeff"
 
"If #5 above does not work aft

"If #5 above does not work after several trys, a propane torch is a good tool, when used properly. If the first application of heat (to the block at the bolt) does not do it, then let it cool until it just barely tolerable to touch and reapply your favorite penetrating oil. Let it cool further. The cooling will draw the penetrating oil further into the joint. Have lunch, reheat and try again. If this does not work after several trys, soak it and come back the next day (often an overnight soak does wonders)."
 
"Jeff, what are your thoughts

"Jeff, what are your thoughts of using S/S studs, bolts, nuts and washers as replacements? I read some where that they do not hold tension in temperature variations. Jon"
 
"Jeff, are your manifold bolts

"Jeff, are your manifold bolts steel? My 440s and my spare set all have stainless steel studs for the manifolds and come out easily. If you have yours apart replace the parts with stainless.

Dan"
 
"I had one exhaust manifold bo

"I had one exhaust manifold bolt break at the treads. I went out and bought a stud remover, easy-out and a couple of other "toys" but when I pulled off the manifold and went to remove the bolt it was only finger tight. I didn't need anything but a pliers. It was the tension of the manifold that caused it to seize.
PB Blaster works great."
 
"Studs that came with my new O

"Studs that came with my new Osco manifolds were stainless. At assembly I double-nutted the studs and torqued them to 15#. Removed the nuts, mounted the manifolds over the studs and torqued the nuts to 30#. The old studs were stainless and thankfully came out without much fuss."
 
Studs work great putting them

Studs work great putting them back on. (I also use studs for the manifold to elbow joint. This makes a that job MUCH easier.) You can stick the gaskets on the studs--especially if you have those miserable three piece deals that can go several ways (at the ends)--then slip the iron in place. Either way--studs or bolts--be sure to anti-seize every thread in sight!

Jeff
 
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