Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Removing lower unit1993 Mercury 175hp 2stroke 6 carbs

D

dave828

Member
"I searched the archives, but

"I searched the archives, but didn't find a reference to this particular model so I was hoping my question/problem might help someone else! (serial # 0D232887)

I recently purchased this boat/motor & decided to replace the impeller first off. After purchasing a SELOC manual I checked to see if it was an "Easy-Shift" or "Cam-Shift"...?
Since the propeller didn't "ratchet" counter-clockwise I decided it was a "Cam-Shift" model & placed the shifter fully forward (per manual).
I have removed ALL the bolts & nuts & can get the lower unit down about 1/8", but it is still frozen!
I soaked all the studs with penetration oil to no avail. I read where there was advice to put the shifter in neutral... is this my problem?

I will try the idea of replacing the nuts & than placing wood on top & slowly backing off the nuts! Any other ideas?"
 
"Yes, I removed the trim tab &

"Yes, I removed the trim tab & the bolt within the trim tab recess... After re-reading the SELOC book for the 5th times I see in the "NOTE" that "The Cam-Shift-II system is installed on lower units matched with the 150XR4, Magnum II & 150XR6". Since my engine is a 175 hp I will assume it is an "Easy-Shift" & the lack of ratchet going counter clockwise can be rersolved after I get it apart...
I will try putting the shifter in neutral & removing the lower unit...
I haven't tried the wood blocks yet & will check the parts breakdown & wait for your reply...
Thank you for your quick response!

Dave"
 
"Would the propeller need to b

"Would the propeller need to be removed just to drop the lower unit...? I can't imagine why & the manuel doesn't say you need to...
Unfortunately my boat is at the marina & I don't have a laptop, so I will be back later & wait for your reply.
The "Parts website" is excellent... I mentioned that you sent me as I registered.
Again, TY for your help...

Dave"
 
"As I assumed, putting the shi

"As I assumed, putting the shifter in neutral had no effect... I also tightened up the two top bolts prior to shifting into neutral thinking this might help if there was something slightly out of synch. I will wait for a response from you or anyone else before I attempt to use the "wedge method"."
 
"TY for the video/info... It l

"TY for the video/info... It leads me to believe that the dowel pin at the front of the case might be frozen, as the rear dowel pin is loose enough to get the case apart by about an 1/8th inch. The video did mention (near the end) about a Mercury engine that needed to have the shift linkage undone below the carb. but I'm sure my 175 has newer style shift linkage.
I'll try the "wedge method" a bit & see if I might have luck with that, but I won't force it if it doesn't come immediately!
I'll wait until Monday & see if someone else has any ideas!
Enjoy the Super Bowl!!! I know we will!!!
GO Pitts!

Cheers! Dave"
 
So far nothing has worked &amp

So far nothing has worked & I'll not push the "wedge" method any further...

I've sent your website to 5 friends! GD stuff!

Dave
 
After looking at the parts pag

After looking at the parts page I think I might try & back the front stud out by using two nuts locked together. With the stud gone it should make it a lot easier to separate the lower unit.

How about that football game???? Amazing!
 
try this turn the fly wheel cl

try this turn the fly wheel clock wise half a turn while someone trys pulling the lower leg
this worked for me
 
"I had jury duty yesterday so

"I had jury duty yesterday so this morning I took my 15/16ths socket & turned the flywheel 180 (In neutral), but it is still frozen solid!
I ordered a service/repair manual from Mercury Marine using my serial number & will wait until the manual arrives before I try anything else..."
 
"Bob, thanks for the link... v

"Bob, thanks for the link... very informative! I still think removing the stud at the front of the lower unit will solve my problem, but I will wait to get my manual. Looking at the stud, I can see a build-up of crud around the stud and the hole that it sits in!
The past owner told me he never used it on the ocean, but at a local lake that is very popular.
When I removed the engine cover there were no "tell-tale" signs of salt water that one can find in the usual "ocean motor" so I tend to believe him.
I also noticed that the fuel filter has never been changed... factory tie-wraps around the fuel filter hose & still has black paint on them...
So... it appears that the impellar is probably the same one that came from the factory!!! OUCH!
I'll keep you informed as to my progress! Should have the manual by Friday, Saturday...

Dave"
 
"Dave...A propane torch can be

"Dave...A propane torch can be very useful when trying to separate parts. Aluminum, when heated, expands more than steel and therefore, heating stuck parts is often an effective way to separate them. Be patient as the aluminum will absorb alot of heat before it gets hot and expands. Good luck, Bob"
 
"Be patient as the aluminu

"Be patient as the aluminum will absorb alot of heat before it gets hot and expands."

Are you kidding. Aluminum absorbs heat and expands quicker than most other alloys.
 
"YOWZA... I'm not sure wha

"YOWZA... I'm not sure what to do... I had considered using a torch but was worried about warping something....
I'll wait... check the manual & if push comes to shove, (after I've removed the stud) I'll start a barbeque under my boat...
Your ALL invited to a replay of the superbowl!!!

Dave"
 
"Dave, Relax and don't get

"Dave, Relax and don't get overly excited. There is a logical explanation for your problem and I'm sure you will figure it out. But I very much doubt that you should have to resort to the use of heat. Most likely it is a tight locating pin. If you don't pry the gearcase down evenly you put a bending stress on the pin which causes binding and only exacerbates the situation."
 
"Ha! I'm relaxed & not

"Ha! I'm relaxed & not at all upset... Having run Fleet Departments for 7-Up & Pepsi Cola with Forklifts all the way up to Class 8 combinations, I've seen my share of "sticky wickets"!
Appreciate the advice, all of it! That was why I'd ordered the Mercury shop manual & planned to wait until I'd received it!
I'll get back to all of you & let you know what transpires!

Dave"
 
"Ralph I think you mean "a

"Ralph I think you mean "as I wedge", which was covered earlier, but thank you for responding!
After reading the Mercury shop manual & reviewing the parts blow-ups, I see that the SELOC manual was giving me the correct information.
Unfortunately after using the "wedge method" for 1 week with penetrating oil & turning flywheel 180 degrees, than 360, that the front of the lower unit was still firmly attached to the upper portion.
I've decided to take it into a local boat repair & shop see if they can get the two parts apart!
I'll keep you posted!

Dave"
 
"The unit finally broke loose

"The unit finally broke loose after using a torch for 1/2 hour (per repair shop) & the impeller was the original factory part... (part # on impeller was Mercury).
This tells me two things: that the owner of the boat I just purchased, lied to me about having the impeller replaced recently & that the boat & motor have very low hours.
The impeller was still in excellent shape (as is the boat & trailer).
What surprises me though is why would a company like Bayliner not install hour meters on all their boats..?
It seems like such a simple item to install & so very important when maintenance issues come to mind!
Anyway, I want to thank everyone for their comments & suggestions & I will check in frequently to see what's happening!

Dave"
 
"Well, it would seem that I mu

"Well, it would seem that I must eat my words. And to Bob Caskey I apologize. Bob you were right.
happy.gif
"
 
"Why no hour meter? - they cos

"Why no hour meter? - they cost about 50 bucks and Bayliner builds "thousands" of boats - do the math


Bayliner is like Chevy - inexpensive enough that anyone can afford one - but it's definately not a Cadillac..."
 
"I would respectfully ask that

"I would respectfully ask that YOU do "the math" when you try & compare a Chevy to this Bayliner...

If you divide 1,000's of boats produced & sold; hour meter costs probably run about $10.00 (back than).
It seems very silly not to install one relative to warranty questions...Oh that's right, warranty is based on months (or years) not hours which makes more sense for "Joe Consumer"...? (NOT)

I'm sure the lawyers went through this with a fine tooth comb & came up with a reason not to install one rather than cost...

If you check back through the notes, you'll see I've spent the better part of my life managing fleet departments so I feel I have a "voice" in my making this statement.

It seems like just another item that is very important to the over-all "health" of the boat; yet it ends up being ignored because some lawyer said it gives "me" the consumer more leverage over the manufactor... (interesting...leve} rage!)

Just my opinion...& we all know about opinions!

LOL... take care all!

Dave"
 
"The fact of the matter is Bay

"The fact of the matter is Bayliner is a budget brand and does not contain all the "toys" or in this case gauges that you find on "similar" models from other builders that tend to cost double.

Bayliner is a kind of "buffet" type builder. Yes, you can get the add-on's if you open your wallet.

Obviously, whoever originally bought this boat opted to spend the extra money to upgrade the motor from the Force that it would have come packaged with to the significantly more expensive Merc option. So if you must blame anyone for the lack of the hour meter it was the original buyer who didn't want to spend the extra 50 or 100 bucks to monitor that upgraded engine.

On earlier Bayliner models even the Tach was an "option" - they came with a speedometer and gas gauge.

And yes, it was all about money. You can't sell at half the price of the competition without cutting corners somewhere...."
 
Back
Top