remote oil pump issue?

[jmonty]

i have been dealing with this problem for some time. I am of little experience with fixing my boat so please bear with me. i have read so much on the forum and still cannot figure it out. I have a 2005 yamaha 2stroke 200hp. In a nutshell, the oil alarm works, the override switch does not make the remote oil pump (number 9) work. i can attach my cordless drill battery to the two wires on the remote oil pump (number 9) and make it run and fill the engine mounted oil tank (number 23) and ultimately make the alarm go off. Would this situation mean that my inline filter (number 6)and remote pump (number 9) works fine since oil gets to the engine mounted tank? or does it mean that my remote pump (number 9) is bad because it is not receiving the signal from the motor (even though my cordless battery can get it to run)? or does it mean there is something wrong with whatever part that should send the signal from the motor to the remote pump (number 9) in the first place. sorry for the long and drawn out explanation, but this has been driving me bonkers for some time. Any help would be appreciated

 

[DeepThought]

Hi,

I see where your logic is going and sounds like a wiring fault - my next step would be to check if there is power going to the pump (from what you say I suspect not) - either a voltmeter or a bulb in place of the pump and hit yer switch. Work back along the loom and eventually you'll find a connector try the bulb there etc. or equally start at the override switch and follow the wires through checking all the connectors.


One of the common killer electrical problems is loose ground wires - if the bulb lights but is dim it is probably grounding through another load rather than direct to the battery.

A little 10buck multimeter will pay for itself very quickly on these sort of jobs - but you often need a second person too, to operate your switch and work on one side of the circuit at a time the +ve or the -ve (ground) checking all the connections along a single wire. (often helps to have a long wire direct to the battery).

In a marine environment wires and connectors go bad quite quickly but you've established the hardware works so the wiring is the culprit.

 

[jmonty]

I think you're completely right. Looks like I know where I'm going to spend a few hours this weekend. I really appreciate your time and your opinion. I will post what I figure out to hopefully help out the next person

 

[aliboy]

Just posted the below on the thread 2 under yours about an earlier model with the same issue. Might be relevant for you. If your engine is an SWS2 model there is a small separate loom that has connectors just before the area where main loom goes out the front of the engine. I think the wires might be purple, yellow, and brown, but can't remember exactly. Anyway, if you put your meter on here you can detect the voltage being fed to the pump. Then read my bit below about one problem like yours that I diagnosed. Was hidden inside corrugated cable ducting so hard to find.

"Not sure if your engine has one, but the slightly later (SWS) models have a switch in the 'corner' of the black plastic electrical cover on the rear of the block. If it is there, this is the 'manual' transfer switch and you can try this (ignition on) to see if the pump will work. You will hear it going if you put your ear close enough. Again if it is like the SWS models there is a 4 (3?) wire loom that goes to the pump from the engine. I have seen these cut and joined to shorten them during installation, leading to a corroded connection in a place where you wouldn't expect there to be a connector. As Chris said above however, a blocked filter etc is a likely cause."