Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Remote cables on 9.8 four stroke

B

bax

Member
I don't have my remote cables yet. I have limited space in front of the motor. How far away from the front of the outboard can the cables start to bend? Is it right from the point they exit, or is there a stiff section before they can bend?

Thanks,
bax
 
Bax,

All morse-type control cables have a minimum bend radius, and need a fairly large one to work well. I would suggest that if you need a small radius (how many inches?), you will want a decent-quality cable, such as hi-lex brand, which is sold by Tohatsu/Nissan dealers. I believe that Hi-Lex cables have a minimum recommended bend radius of 165 mm. The bend can start immediately after the crimped end on the outer jacket. Typically an OB is rigged with a loop of control cable at the motor, to allow for steering.
 
Also, in case you were not aware of it, there is now a steering lock kit for the 9.8 remote motors. It replaces the co-pilot steering friction mechanism with a solid stainless plate and bolts. It fits the motors that were sold as remote models, not the motors that were sold as tiller-type.
 
Last edited:
Paul,

Thanks for your replies. I definitely plan to use the TFXtreme (4" ned radius)or the Hi-Lex you spoke of. I think I didn't explain my question well enough. So when the cables are installed, how far away from the front of the motor is the crimped end on the outer jacket? Can you give me a reference point so That I can take a measurement, say the front of the handle just above the clamps for the transom, or the front of the motor cover, or something like that?

I definitely want to order the steering lock kit too, that's just what I need!
Thanks,
bax
 
Measure from the front of the control box, along the path that the cables will run to the front of the engine. Then add three feet and that will give you the correct length of the cables with the correct bend rate. The cables run out from the side of the boat and run through the space between the first motor clamp and the transom. Then they come up in a bow and run into the engine.
 
The stainless sleeve and crimp length of the cable may vary somewhat from brand to brand. If you are converting the F type motor (tiller) to P type (remote), using the SRC kit, you will be adding the "cable clip" that has the gate that holds the cables in proper index at the front starboard area of the motor. That establishes the indexing for the cable, and is outside the motor cowl. The crimp area of the cable will be somewhat ahead of that.

Also... if you are converting an F type motor to remote (P type), you will not have the "co-pilot" steering friction mechanism (you will have a bolt-type steering friction adjustment in the side of the exhaust housing leg)... so you won't have the style of swivel casting that accepts the steering lock. If you start out with a real P type, you will be fine to use the steering lock kit.
 
Paul, I have a new Tohatsu 9.8 Outboard MFS 6A3z 8A3 9.8A3 to be installed on my 23 ODAY which has a Johnson shift and throttle controller and existing cables available for use that were used on an old Johnson 9.8 OB now removed. can I use the controller and cable on my new Tohatsu? And if so how can I modify the existing setup to work with the Tohasu?
 
No. Your new motor should have come with an RC box (and maybe control cables, if they sere specified) if you bought it as a Remote model. The OEM controls for OMC do not use the same harness, and have proprietary control cables so they don't interchange with standard Morse-type cables.

BTW, this was an OLD post... it would be better to start anew one...
 
Back
Top