Logo

Really Overheating!!!

dwleo

New member
This is on my Volo-Penta AQ170C/280 in a 22 ft Fibreform

OK, here is the problem as it has progressed. Originally I had a overheating problem when using the muffs on land. Through this forum, I ended up drilling some holes in the thermostat and the overheating went away. I even ran it for over 10 mins at fast idle. It was good. Then I had recurring problems with sealing rings leaking - and through the forum again, got them solved. Then I had on major water leak where the exhaust attaches to the boot prior to exiting the transom. Got that solved by resetting the bandclamp properly. Great!
Finally got it into the water on Sunday and decided to stick near shore for the first while to ensure everything was OK. After watching the water temp climb to normal and stay there as I tootled around and no leaks around the sealing rings. So I opened it up and right away I smelled rubber overheating. Put the engine in neutral and checked things. The rubber exhaust boot had some water coming out of it but not enough to cause a concern (I thought). Then I noticed that the water outlet through the transom wasn't really putting out that much water. And the rubber smell was getting worse and we were about 1/4 to 1/2 mile offshore. Turned to head back to the marina and smoke was now emminating from the boot along with an acrid smell of burning rubber. Glanced at the water temp gauge and it was pegged in the 'hot' range. I put it in neutral and the revs went crazy so I put it in gear again only slow. Not getting any oomph from the engine due to overheating. I gave it one last full throttle (for what it was worth) then shut it down and coasted towards the dock with the aid of oars. Current started taking me to the rocks but the engine would not restart. I was able to push off with the oar and another boat (Thank you!) towed us over. I was soooo pissed off at the boat. By the time I got it out of the water the engine had cooled considerably but would not restart to flush the system. I went back to the boat today and pulled the exhaust manifold off and the boot. Man, the boot seemed like it was mostly liquid rubber. I turned off the through-the-hull water pick-up and hooked a hose to the system and all ports seem to flow well. And there was no water in the oil so I assume the head gasket was OK although I didn't take a compression check of it. My impeller was replaced before I bought the boat in April and I did recheck it and greased it slightly a month ago. Anyway I took the manifold home to clean it up and check the water passages. All seems to be OK. Now I know the manifold is old and it looks it but a new one is really expensive.
So, my question to you is this:
Can a leak in the exhaust boot cause this problem? I can't see how it could. I am wondering if the head gasket or the manifold failed (manifold gasket looked good) only to allow water to flow into the exhaust therefore sending bitching hot steam into the exhaust boot and causing it to fail. Water diverted like this would also cause major overheating, I would think. How could this be tested while off the boat?
Man, this boat is starting bother me alot!​
 
What is clear to me is that at some point there was not enough water circulation. That the impeller was replaced recently does not mean it could have not failed, so that is the first thing I would check. That is, open the raw water pump and check the impeller. Then I would make sure that there is no air ingress between the suction side of the pump and the water intake (be it through-hull or through the outdrive grids). You will have to put the boat on a trailer, then seal the through-hull pick-up or the outdrive grids with duct tape, then put water in the suction line by the raw water pump with a garden hose. If there is a leak you will see it in no time. If no leaks, you may want to remove the duct tape and backflush the suction line. If the boat has been int he water, the grids could be plugged-up or barnacles may be growing in the suction line or inside the grids. If all OK, then it is time to put water on the raw water pump's discharge hose and prove that entgine block and exhaust manifold are clear.

If that doesn't work, we will have to come up with something else.
 
When I go to the boat next (tomorrow or Saturday) I intend to check the flow from the raw water pickup to the pump. Hopefully it is in there.
 
I went to the boat and checked as best I could. Didn't do a compression test as I forgot to bring a tester.
Raw water impeller works as I took off the cover plate and cranked the engine and watched it turn.No blockages found between the raw pickup (thru hull) and the impeller.Impeller to the oil cooler was clean and not obstructed at all.
All piping that runs from exhaust manifold to where ever (oil cooler, thermostat, etc.) all free running.
 
At the AFT end of your exhaust manifold will be an elbow, and at the FWD end will be a sea water supply fitting.
Where these join each other, there will be sea water transfer ports.
These can become closed up with rust scale.
You may want to look at these, and open them up if need be.

Your sea water suction and pump system can be near perfect, but if the sea water cannot enter, nor the "spent" sea water exit the manifold......, you'll have problems.

Tip: crack these bolt loose while the manifold is hot/warm. You can finish the job after things cool back down.
 
Are you saying I should take off the elbow (in pic)?

elbow.jpg
 
It's your call!
If it was mine, Yes.... I certainly would.


Here's an example of a few different style transfer ports that have become restricted with rust scale.
You can safely assume that cooling has been compromised by this condition.

images


images


Sea-archives-Riser.jpg
 
CRAP!!!! :mad:
During this whole process while flushing water everywhichway in the manifold, I noticed some water in exhaust port 5. I thought (hoped!) it was my sloppiness. After pulling the elbow off I had a clear view down the exhaust channel. So I applied water to one of the water ports and witnessed a leak that allowed water to travel from the water jacket to the exhaust manifold.
CRAP!!! :mad:
The leak is 7" from where the elbow joins the manifold just past the rectangular end plate (whose bolts WILL NOT come off).
CRAP!!! :mad:
If there is one hole, there might be more or the possibility of more once pressure builds.
CRAP!!! :mad:
Anyone know of a cheap (Hah!) manifold?
CRAP!!! :mad:
 
Looking at manifold prices, and I am appalled.
So, what I would like to do is replace the engine with something newer.

What would be a good match-up for a 280 drive?
Why can't one use a automotive closed cooling system on a boat motor?
Thanks. You guys have been very helpful.

- Daryl
 
This question comes up every year a few times. You can search the forum, but here is one thread where it was recently discussed. As you see, your case is far from unique. :)

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...051-blown-VP-170-time-to-swap&highlight=aq200

Many engines have a marine (not automotive) closed cooling system. A closed cooling system definitely enhaces the longevity of the blocks, heads and (depending on the system) even of the exhaust manifolds. There are a number of closed cooling kits available (do a search in Google), depending on the application; and you can even make your custom one.
 
Re: Really Overheating!!! and New Question

Thanks for that.
Since this boat was to be a '2 year work boat' transporting materials to a cabin site on an island for two years. We were going to get rid of it after that and get a half-decent boat to enjoy.
The cost of conversion is, in this case, prohibitive.
So new question:confused::

Is it feasible to add on to the transom and mount an outboard on it? (Removing the leg, etc.)
Being a Fibreform I don't know how beefed they made their transoms but it is even thickness overall not just at the leg. It would be powered with probably a 75 hp to 110 hp engine so the stresses would be less than the existing straight 6, I would think.
And I ain't got a bucket of money to throw at it.
 
Last edited:
Re: Really Overheating!!! and New Question

After going through the hoops on this forum and others, I have decided, with the help of people on this forum and others, to rid myslf of this boat and get another, better one. Advance by learning and learn when to quit.
But the whole issue has made me uncomfortable with I/O and will probably look at outboards.
Thanks to all who put up with me on this project.
 
Not a bad decision, especially when it comes to fuel economy if you are thinking in a modern 4-stroke or in an Optimax. But remember, in boating it's pay me now or may me later. The moment you buy it, BOAT stands for Bring Out Another Thousand ... a universal law you cannot avoid. :)
 
Back
Top