Re-wiring my AQ 260

[Windy Bay]

I have a 1981 Skipjack boat with what I think is an AQ260 with a 280 outdrive. If it is an AQ260 alot of the resemblance is now gone, but I use that to find parts, and it has worked, So that is what I am calling it. It has been retrofited with a single wire Alternator and Mallory ignition. It is a pretty basic GM 350 (5.7L) and appears to be a crate engine, with brass expansion plugs. Sorry for the description, but maybe it will help. I did not install any of the parts, It was done by previous owners. One of the items I am having trouble with is the ignition circuit. I think the circuit should be one with a ballast resistor and a coil that uses an external ballast resistor. The instructions that go with the Mallory Distributor says it needs to be used with a ballast resistor- so that is my plan. With all that wiring missing I have drawn up a diagram of what I think it should be and attached it. the yellow that I used on the drawing isn't showing up very well. It goes from the ignition switch start position to the start position on the starter, and in reality it is a yellow with a red stripe wire. the rest of the wire colors on the diagram is what they will be when I am done wiring. Thanks for any input

 

[RicardoMarine]

....................

I have a 1981 Skipjack boat with what I think is an AQ260 with a 280 outdrive. If it is an AQ260 alot of the resemblance is now gone, but I use that to find parts, and it has worked, So that is what I am calling it.
If you truly have the 280 stern drive behind a GM 5.7L V-8, you will find quite a bit of interchangeability between the different models.
If your exhaust manifolds are 1 pc, and if you have the B/W flywheel cover w/ the B/W - V/P PDS adapter housing, this would have originally been an AQ200B or an AQ225B.

It has been retrofited with a single wire Alternator and Mallory ignition.
The Delco 10si is good.
Which Mallory ignition system?
You show only one wire to the ignition distributor of which may be an older Kettering system (contact points style------ YL-624)

If it has 3 wires (red, green and brown), it may be a YLM-624 AV or a YLU-624 AV.
The YLM is VR (variable reluctor)....... the YLU is photo-eye.
Either of these will be equipped with 3 wires.


This schematic is for the YLU. The wiring for the YLM is the same.
http://www.v8wizard.com/uploaded_files/Mallory-Unalite.pdf\

Note where:
..... the module (or triggering unit) receives non-resisted power.
..... the ignition coil receives resisted power.
..... the brown is used for a Negative connection.

It is a pretty basic GM 350 (5.7L) and appears to be a crate engine, with brass expansion plugs. Sorry for the description, but maybe it will help. I did not install any of the parts, It was done by previous owners. One of the items I am having trouble with is the ignition circuit. I think the circuit should be one with a ballast resistor and a coil that uses an external ballast resistor. The instructions that go with the Mallory Distributor says it needs to be used with a ballast resistor- so that is my plan.
See above.

With all that wiring missing I have drawn up a diagram of what I think it should be and attached it. the yellow that I used on the drawing isn't showing up very well. It goes from the ignition switch start position to the start position on the starter, and in reality it is a yellow with a red stripe wire.
Yes.... yellow w/ red stripe is very typical for the Marine starter motor S terminal.
If your throttle/shift unit incorporates a "neutral safety switch", this circuit will be interrupted by this switch.

the rest of the wire colors on the diagram is what they will be when I am done wiring.
I would stay with the Volvo Penta OEM color codes.
Pre-modern day codes:
Black = Negative
Red = Positive
Purple = ignition
Yellow/red stripe = starter motor solenoid
blue = oil pressure sender
brown = temp sender

While you do not show this, you will need to incorporate an MBSS (main battery selector switch.... also known as OFF/Batt1/All-Both/Batt2) so that you will end up with two separate battery banks to call upon.
The power to the helm will be fused via the common "red button" Cole Hersee 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker.

.

 

[Windy Bay]

If you truly have the 280 stern drive behind a GM 5.7L V-8, you will find quite a bit of interchangeability between the different models.
If your exhaust manifolds are 1 pc, and if you have the B/W flywheel cover w/ the B/W - V/P PDS adapter housing, this would have originally been an AQ200B or an AQ225B.

I'm pretty sure it is not currently a AQ200B or the AQ225B. The exhust manifolds are not the same as what is shown in marine parts europe. I am attaching a PDF with pictures.

If it has 3 wires (red, green and brown), it may be a YLM-624 AV or a YLU-624 AV.
The YLM is VR (variable reluctor)....... the YLU is photo-eye.
Either of these will be equipped with 3 wires.

I think it is the YLM, and I did find the wiring diagram for it on the Mallory Marine page. this is a link to the instructions.
http://documents.msdperformance.com/frm34418_mallory_unilitedist_installinstructions_revb.pdf

I do have a mbss. I am using a standard marine color coding,

I will post pic of distributor and engine in a few minuites

 

[Windy Bay]

this is pictures of the engine and distributor

 

[RicardoMarine]

That is for certain the YLM 624 AV, using my preferred and tried and proven VR technology.
The 8 pointed center unit is a "reluctor". It is magnetically charged. As each point passes the sensor, the system causes the ignition coil's field to collapse creating one spark event.
By the way...... DO NOT bridge the gap between the sensor and the reluctor points with anything conductive.

As for the wiring color codes, that diagram is showing today's color codes, of which is great if you are changing/re-wiring everything (i.e., hull harness and engine harness).

If you are trying to match the OEM color codes, light brown (in lieu of tan) is typically used for your year temp sender circuit.
Your year will also use light gray for your tachometer circuit, brown for your bilge pump circuit, and green or yellow for your bilge blower motor circuit.

As long as it all makes sense to you, you can do what you want to.
For me..... I'd match the OEM for the year model.


Good luck and keep us updated with your progress.



Edit:
I noticed that your 95mm rubber exhaust couplers are too short. These are the two 95mm hoses that connect the exhaust elbows to the Y-pipe inlets.

Your elbows (at the outlet areas) have a section with heavy scallops that allow the spent seawater to enter and mix with the exhaust gas flow.
When these hoses are too short, they become inadvertently clamped over the scalloped areas. (USCG regs call for double banc clamps at each end)
As the rubber becomes depressed into the scallops, it begins the restrict seawater flow.
If left as is, I can almost assure you that you will eventually develop over-heating issues.

The fix is to purchase two new sections of 95mm wet exhaust hose about 2" longer than the OEM.

Just a heads up on that!

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