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Raw Water Strainer for AQ130C

S

stig57

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"I recently acquired a 17 ft 1

"I recently acquired a 17 ft 1974 Saf-T-Mate ( now Four Winns ) with a AQ130C engine. The cooling system does not include a raw water strainer. Does anyone know if that's typical ?

I'd like to add one, anyone know where I can obtain one ? Or perhaps suggestions for constructing one ?"
 
"I have a used one if you are

"I have a used one if you are interested,but you must have the appropriate heat exchanger because it fit onto it."
 
"Do you think the raw water st

"Do you think the raw water strainer was removed, or is it not unusual to not have one installed ? Seems like that's asking for trouble."
 
"Hi Jeff, I have one that I to

"Hi Jeff, I have one that I took off of my AQ130 engine. I replace it with a see through water filter that a friend of mine gave me. It comes with the mounts too. I'll sell it to you for $20, and whatever the shipping cost is."
 
"My circa 1972 AQ130C did not

"My circa 1972 AQ130C did not come with a water strainer and not having one has never been an issue, but that's not to say it might not be a bad idea to have one."
 
"Raw water strainer....it depe

"Raw water strainer....it depends onwhere youdo your boating. Where I am its a necessity as there is a fair amount of "eel grass" that get adrift and gets sucked up into your engine. Where you are.. Whow knows? If you install one they are benificial, HOWEVER, they are an added maintenance issue as in... 1)must be checked on a regular basis and,2) improper replacement of the access port cover/cap and/or damage to the seal under the cover/cap will allow air to get sucked into the engine and cause overheating."
 
"I'm in the Holland, MI ar

"I'm in the Holland, MI area. I've had the boat out twice in Saugatuck bay ( Lake Kalamazoo ). It's so shallow in spots I was regularly churning up muck. By the second trip the oil cooler plugged up solid and the engine overheated. Had to disassemble it to clear it out. I'm going to have to come up with some sort of prefilter/strainer if I continue to boat around here."
 
"A solution to that problem mi

"A solution to that problem might be to install a through-hull water intake. The AQ130 pump is not strong enough to pull water up through the drive, then through a filter,oil-cooler and to the pump. Having a through-hull reduces the risk of sucking in mud etc if Your drive hits the bottom!"
 
So what would I use for a pump

So what would I use for a pump ? Are through-hull systems available as complete sytems or is that something I would have to piece together ?
 
"Through hulls are used on eve

"Through hulls are used on every inboard installation and You may get them all over the place in different sizes. Was even used on the AQ 100 drives combined with exhaust outlet (Through transom).
All You need is the through hull, drill a hole at the bottom, replace the hose from transom to oil cooler to the through hull, block the transom (and remove the hose from drive to transom).Use a type with 'scoop' and grills, and remember the scoop has to point forward.
Have alook here:
http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=530"
 
"I've used thru hulls on a

"I've used thru hulls on all my boats. It is unlikely that you will find a raw water filter that will filter out mud. Even if it did, it would plug up just about as fast as your oil cooler did. The big benefit of the thru hull is that it is (or should) be mounted well forward of the transom. On my boats over the years(one 18 ft Deep V and two 23 ft Deep V) I mounted the thru hull intakes in line or very slightly ahead of the front of the engine off to one side (typically to port, but thats just how clearances worked out). At this location, even if your prop stirs up muck, you have a fighting chance of not getting it in your engine intake in the first place. One caveat... if your hull is a deep V or even a moderate V and capable of 25+ mph speeds, the proper orientation of the thru hull scoop is NOT straight forward, but rather "toed in" at bit. Water flow when the boat is on a plane in the area of your new inlet is not straight fore/aft but rather flows in an angle from the keel outward and back. Recommend that you use all bronze fittings and that the shutoff valve be a 1/4 turn ball valve, NEVER as gate valve. Also... be sure to have a backing plate (Star-board material or epoxy saturated exterior plywood works well for this) inside the hull. Be sure to use bedding compound between the plate and hull. This is strongly recommended if you elect to use the screw holes on the "scoop". You want the screws to reach into the backing plate. DO NOT SCREW into the hull from the outside and only bite into fiberglass. I've also noted that some scoops "new from the factory" have rather sloppy "grills" from not having the casting flashing trimmed off. Some time with a small file or Dremel tool to make the inlet grills smooth for improved water flow while possible not strictly necessary has always left me feeling better. IF Zebra mussels are a problem in your area, make sure that the inlet that you buy has an access port so you can "roto-rooter" the inlet pipe...not all raw water inlets have this feature. If you do your own winterizing, install a "T" fitting and another valve (hose bib) just after the thru hull shutoff. This will allow you to just hook up a hose to the valve, and stick it in a bucket of antifeeze. ( Shut off thru hull, open flush valve)"
 
"Thanks Robert. Does this sys

"Thanks Robert. Does this system use an auxiliary pump, or the engine raw water pump ? Where's a good source for the hardware for such a system ?"
 
"Jeff,

Both Morton and I ar

"Jeff,

Both Morton and I are suggesting that you use the existing engine mounted raw water pump. BTW, sucking up mud or sand can often "eat" the impeller on your pump. Keep a spare on board plus the tools to replace it."
 
"Thanks Robert. So basically

"Thanks Robert. So basically you are both suggesting I just re-route the inlet away from the stern drive directly to the hull ?

Yes, I had to replace the impeller too."
 
"Yes,

And to answer your ot

"Yes,

And to answer your other question, no, there aren't any made up kits.

What you need:
" High speed raw water pickup" with cleanout port if you are in Zebra mussel country.
backing plate
tube of marine sealant "Boat Life" or equal
1/4 turn ball valve (bronze w/stainless ball)
Hose barb

If you want a "flush capability"
Bronze "T" fitting
Reducer
Hose Bib
nipple

Let me know if you want to see a picture."
 
"As a 'add on', no par

"As a 'add on', no part of the intake, nipples, valves should have less inner diameter than the intake of oil-cooler/pump. Better to go 'one up' in the water intake, and get the final nipple on the shut-off valve in correct dia.
As for where to install.
Check the bottom with a leveler/straight piece of alu/wood (+4 feet long) that there is no 'hook' at the bottom. (Daylight between leveler and bottom). If You put Your intake in a 'hook' -no water!"
 
"I like my see thru water filt

"I like my see thru water filter. It happen twice I was loading my boat into the water and the engine started heating up. Shut off the engine, check out my filter, and it was cover with mud and silt. Unscrew the cap, clean it out and I was off and running. I check it all the time, and clean it out from weeds and crap. If my engine hits 200 degree I know where to look."
 
"Tom,
My previous boats all h

"Tom,
My previous boats all had "see thru" raw water filters installed and checking them as part of my "pre-flite" became a way of life, especially after the first time the filter filled up with eel grass. The only problems arose were when I did not properly reinstall the cap or the gasket failed. My present setup, per my mechanic's recommendation, was for a raw water inlet with a built in filter screen. The filter screen is a sheet of stainless steel with a large number of smallish holes. This forms a leading edge of the wedge shaped inlet. I haven't recommended this to anyone as to date, I still consider the inlet setup as "in evaluation"... To date no overheats (25 hrs of operation). While the idea of a theoretically "no maintenance" raw water inlet filter system is attractive, "out of sight" is not "out of mind" for me. Sorry, I'm a retired design engineer of the "belt and braces (plus double stick tape) school". My favorite of the several filters I've had was a bronze and glass one with a threaded screw on top. While I've had more seal failures with that filter, I've had fewer air leaks due to improper tightening than I've had on others. As I recall, a mason jar seal was the perfect size replacement seal (when the tab was trimmed off) for the screw-on one that I had. Then again that was a few years ago.."
 
"Here is my setup <[img]"http:

"Here is my setup
218640.jpg
Filter setup"">
I alter the filter by drilling a bunch of tiny holes. It's hand tight and it fits perfect. You can still get this filter online Part Number PPSF1.0-X50 Only $40 and parts from home depot. It saves me a lot of time and headaches."
 
"If those hose fittings on the

"If those hose fittings on the filter are plastic, I'd keep an eye on them for cracks."
 
"Will do, so far, so good. It&

"Will do, so far, so good. It's been working like this for the past 10 years. The lake I live on is overgrown with millfoil weeds, so it does get a lot of use."
 
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