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Questions on Reeves Timing Method for '89 Johnson 70

S

sumocomputers

New member
After taking the boat out with my buddy to do the timing at 5000 RPM in the open ocean, I realized it was way too fast & choppy, not to mention all the salt spray with the engine cover off. So I looked up the Joe Reeves Timing Method, and had some questions for my '89 Johnson 70 after doing a full Link and Sync:

1. It says remove all the spark plugs and use a spark plug tester at 7/16" for cylinder 1 (I am assuming also grounded to engine). Any need to do anything with the other two cylinder wires? Is removing the spark plugs and wires enough, or do the wires need to be left attached the coils and grounded to engine? Seems dangerous to potentially have fuel and fumes coming out the spark plug holes/cylinder head with spark nearby.

2. My sticker says 19BTDC +/-1, so I was going to shoot for 18BTDC final (14BTDC when cranking). When cranking with the timing light, does the mark in question light up in line with the TDC pointer, or off to one side? And if one side, which side? Sorry if this obvious, but this is new for me.

3. It says have the throttle at full. I am assuming to just remove the throttle cable and manually advance it to full at the engine, since I don't think it cranks in gear. I have already set the WOT limit as part of Link and Sync.

4. I just don't quite understand this part:
"Set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary)". Wouldn't it already be tight, or is this to keep it from moving while cranking?

Thanks,

Chris
 
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1 - Ground the other plug wires to the powerhead. Yes, fuel/fumes shooting out the plug holes combined with a spark is quite dangerous so DO NOT have that engine backed up against anything flammable!

2 - Your sticker says 19 degrees BTC.... Set the full spark advance at 15 degrees. You want #1 cylinder to fire/light up in line with the 15 degree mark. Think about it..... It needs to fire "Before Top Center", NOT at "Top Center."

3 - With a mechanic's start button, you can connect from the battery cable terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that engages the starter circuit (not the 3/8" nut terminal that leads to ground). That bypasses the safety cutout switch. Just have the key in the ON position so as to engage the ignition.

4 - Bingo! You DO NOT want that timer base shaking while setting the timing. Lock it in place!
 
Hey Joe,

Thanks for the reply. I am about to try it this week, but a couple questions on #3:

I was thinking of just using a spare marine battery switch (the square red jobs) as my mechanics switch. Will this work? And do I need heavy gauge cable like 2 or 4GA?

And sorry if this is obvious, but will the motor start cranking as soon as I energize the circuit between the starter solenoid battery connection and the 3/8" solenoid starter circuit connection?

Chris
 
The jumper wire at the solenoid is just regular small gauge wire.

Yes, as soon as you jump those two terminals, the starter is engaged.
 
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