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Questions about E90TLCEM been sitting for 2 years

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Brendan8500

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I just purchase a 1990 Stratos266 FS with a 1989 Evinrude 90hp(E90TLCE). Everything seems to be in abnormally great shape. The boat “motor”is a one owner from Kansas and I live in Albuquerque, NM around 5000’ elevation.

The boat came from low to highelevation and has never been on the water in NM in addition it has been sittingfor almost 2 years. The boat was winterized by a Marina in Kansas and startedfine, runs fine in a tub of water but it will not idle.

Here is what I am going to do priorto launching the boat. Please tell me if there is anything I should add. At theend of my list I also have a couple questions about my altitude.

Compression test, rebuild carbs,replace water pump, replace lower unit oil, lube, all necessary components,

Please let me know if I am missinganything.

My questions about high altitude:The pitch on my prop is currently 19 I was going to change to a Hustleraluminum 15 degree prior to launch. Does this sound about like the correctpitch. I know I may not get it right the first time but most of the propcalculators tell me a 15-17 pitch would be correct for my type of use. Ipurchased a Ken Cook manual still waiting for it to arrive. I am sure themanual will help me get a better grasp on outboard motors but in the interim Ithought I would post some questions.

In my owners manual it “reads” HIGHALTITUDE OPERATION: The fuel must be altered for operation above 3000’ orhigher. SEE your dealer for a High Altitude Performance Kit.

What is this kit? Do I need tochange my main jet? Can I purchase this dealer kit?

Thank you in advance for all yourreplies/help.
 
There are in fact 2 thermostats on that motor.--------Johnson and Evinrude have had thermostats on most of their motors 10HP and above since 1960.Exception being the 28 / 33 / later 40 HP models.-------If this is a new to you machine you need to find out if the VRO unit is in service or if it is bypassed.-------If it is still in service you need to mark the oil tank level.Then mix a 5 gallon tank with 50:1 fuel. Run that tank empty and see how much oil needs to be added to the oil tank to get back to the mark.--------If you are unsure of all this then have a friendly dealer assist you.-----If not you run the risk of ruining a fine machine.
 
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I am glad you both mentioned the thermostat. I was thinking about changing both out but wasn’t sure if I should. Again, I don’t have my manual yet but it doesn’t appear to be a fun job. I am going to do allthe work myself but I am familiar with wrenching on motors “not” outboards so hopefully all will work out well.

I thought there was only a (1) jet being a high speed jet? I will call seaway marine and talk to them about jetting. I would love to get it right the first time and not have to re-jet more than once if possible. I did speak to one local marine shop and they said I didn’t need to re-jet which I thought was weird. I was thinking if the owner’s manual tells me I will need a high altitude kit (jetting) I would assume it should have to be done to run correctly.
I am not worried about losing hp. I have done everything from drag racing to sandrails at this altitude and hp has always been a bummer.

I don’tsee an idol adjustment on these carbs. Does anyone have information about “how to adjust idle?

Thanks again for the help.
 
On a fresh water motor changing / inspecting those thermostats is not hard at all.--Just a 7/16" wrench and some patience.---There is a high speed jet ( orifice ) for each cylinder.
 
Brendan8500 said:
I don’tsee an idol adjustment on these carbs. Does anyone have information about “how to adjust idle?
Click to expand...

Pertaining to the air/fuel mixture, there is a "Idle Air Bleed" jet just inside each top forward portion of the carburetor throats. Since this jet meters "air" and NOT "fuel", installing a larger jet leans out the mixture and installing a smaller jet richens the mixture.

Pertaining to the mechanical linkage idle, back off the idle set screw that you see on the vertical throttle arm (arm which runs from the throttle cable to the timer base under the flywheel), then loosen the throttle cable clamp at the engine so that you can adjust the threaded trunion on the cable as needed.
 
I lovethe help this forum provides “thank you”. The Idle air bleed makes sense as does the mechanical linkage. Should I mess around with the linkage while on muffs or wait until am on the water? I read that on muffs it should idle around 1100rpm and this should result in a 750rpm while in the water with a load. Does that sound right?
I have replaced a thermostat on a car but not an outboard. What would I inspect on the thermostat? If in doubt should I just order new and replace them while I am tearing into everything else?

Thanksracerone and joereeves
 
Look at the thermostat and put it in boiling water it should open up and then close again in cold water.-----If you have a thermometer and want to get technical it should be fully open at about 160 F.-----------I usually dip them in boiling water twice.-------If bad they usually fail in the open position anyways.
 
Brendan8500 said:
Should I mess around with the linkage while on muffs or wait until am on the water? I read that on muffs it should idle around 1100rpm and this should result in a 750rpm while in the water with a load. Does that sound right?
Click to expand...

If you have a 20" transom, on a flushette, set the idle to 1000 rpm.

If a 25" transom, set it to 1200 rpm.

In the water, the idle will drop to normal.
 
Just wantedto say thanks for the help! I got everything complete on the list. I did notpull the thermostat but ran the motor for 25 mins and I could feel the watertemp from the pisser change temp. Everything seems good and will take out this weekend.
Notthat most people will read this far into the post but to all of those who havenever rebuilt a carb in this type of motor shouldn’t be afraid of this task. Itwas an extremely easy process as was the water pump change, etc...
 
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