I'm not sure what would be gained by removing the serpentine belt, other than to relax it, of which may not be a bad idea.
Just as with any composite material, if we remove the strain, it will fair better.
I do know that the single point drain systems pose an issue in that the drain ports cannot be probed to clear them of any rust scale. Rust scale may prevent complete draining.
I had a 2003 5.0L V/P here last summer. It had been winterized by an authorized shop who apparently used the single point engine block drain system. Since this system does not lend itself to probing, the rust scale prevented the sea water from draining. The owner was left in possession of a beautifully running 5.0L SBC, but with two large splts on either side of the engine block.
I'd sure use caution if you are relying on any single point drain system.... in fact, I'd get rid of it ASAP.
Just install drain plugs, or petcocks with the fully removeable stops.
Now these can be probed.
I'm also not sure why a Raw Water cooled MPI engine -vs- a carbureted engine would pose a different need for antifreeze any more than one or the other.
Just plain air won't freeze, expand and crack our expensive cast iron components.
The antifreeze simply gives us that "feel good" feeling.
If rust protection is the goal, I'd suggest that more rust occurs during normal season usage than any off-season would result in.
I think this is common misnomer that antifreeze is actually required.
Again, just plain air won't freeze, expand and crack our expensive cast iron components.
If a salft water engine, then yes...... use the Salt-a-Way kit for flushing, and be sure to fully drain again afterwards.
Also..... if they are using antifreeze, just how are they introducing the antifreeze into the engine block?
Are they using the drive and sea water pump with garden hose muff kit?
Perhaps read this review re; the
so called "Winterizing Kits" that some owners and shops will use.
Read what may occur if not used correctly.
I was not watching them do the job, but when they did service or previous boat they did fog up engine .....
Just an FYI here; the MPI engine is NOT fogged in the conventional sense of Engine Fogging.
Instead, an oil enriched fuel mixture is introduced into the fuel system. Commonly the fuel filter cartridge is emptied, and is filled with this mixture. The engine is then operated and will bring this mixture into the system.
The MPI engines are not actually "fogged" as per how we would fog a carbureted engine due to air sensors in the MPI system that cannot be subjected to the fogging oil. So if someone is actually "fogging" an MPI system, you may want to make sure that this does not happen again.
Come spring time, you may running issues if this was done.
If removing you sea water pump impeller is an option for you, I'd certainly recommend doing this, so that it doesn't take a "set" during the lay up period. These impellers undergo more damage in the off season from sitting at rest within the pump body, than what they undergo during normal use.
Remove it, and shelf it if you can.
With the sea water pump impeller removed, we can do a quick 8-10 second "dry start", and carbureted engine cylinder fogging at the same time.
You can easily fog an engine in 8-10 seconds.
This also blows the exhaust system dry.
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