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Question: '81' 60 HP, thermostat change?

W

wshurmatz

New member
Hi All,
First time posting here, I have a 1981 60HP Electric start (J60ELCIA), it has been a great running motor, but seems to have some over heating problems now, I have had the impeller changed, I get a good flow from the telltale and I can see water coming out from below as well (the water coming out of the telltate is hot (130-140 degrees), after running 15 -20 minutes the motor cuts out and the head feels real hot, (too hot to keep your hand on it?) can't restart until it cools down a little, I'm thinking thermostat? maybe not opening all the way, Would I get any flow from the telltale if the thermostat was closed?

Could that be it, or could it be something else (like timing, she runs and idles great until it gets hot)? I'd appreciate any guidence you can provide?

How big of a job is it to change the thermostat?:confused:
 
The thermostat would be the first place to inspect.

However.... if the engine got that hot to shut down, the warning horn should have gone off long before that took place. Have you checked your warning horn to see if it is functional?
 
I did not hear any typeof warning horn? how would I check that?

When I remove the cover to access the thermostat I'll replace the gasket, should this go back on with a sealant or dry?
 
The gasket that goes on the outer plate requires a sealant.

Warning horn test..... Engine NOT running but have the ignition key in the ON/RUN position.

Locate the TAN wire protruding from the cylinder head, slide the insulation back to reveal the metal connection and ground that connection to the powerhead. This completes the electrical circuit which should make the warning horn sound off. If it does not, find out why as that's the only warning you'll receive before the engine overheats to a screeching seizing halt.

If you have a white OMC side mount control box, the horn should be inside of it.

If you have a binnacle mount on a console, the horn should be under the dash area connected to a TAN wire leading from the instrument wiring harness. There should also be a purple wire leading from the horn to the "A" terminal of the ignition switch.
 
joereeves said:
The gasket that goes on the outer plate requires a sealant.

Warning horn test..... Engine NOT running but have the ignition key in the ON/RUN position.

Locate the TAN wire protruding from the cylinder head, slide the insulation back to reveal the metal connection and ground that connection to the powerhead. This completes the electrical circuit which should make the warning horn sound off. If it does not, find out why as that's the only warning you'll receive before the engine overheats to a screeching seizing halt.

If you have a white OMC side mount control box, the horn should be inside of it.

If you have a binnacle mount on a console, the horn should be under the dash area connected to a TAN wire leading from the instrument wiring harness. There should also be a purple wire leading from the horn to the "A" terminal of the ignition switch.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the quick answer on the sealant. I have an aftermarket control box (with no horn inside). I do see a tan lead coming from the harness under the dashboard. It's not connected to anything. I guess I could find an after market horn/buzzer and rig up the alarm. I'll test the circuit as you suggest. I appreciate your help.
 
It's my understanding that Radio Shack has a warning horn for about $10 that will work. The price of the original OMC horn is outrageous. The wiring would be.......

Purple wire from the "A" terminal of the ignition switch to one of the terminals of the horn. The remaining terminal of the horn would attach to that TAN wire leading from the wiring harness.
 
joereeves said:
It's my understanding that Radio Shack has a warning horn for about $10 that will work. The price of the original OMC horn is outrageous. The wiring would be.......

Purple wire from the "A" terminal of the ignition switch to one of the terminals of the horn. The remaining terminal of the horn would attach to that TAN wire leading from the wiring harness.
Click to expand...

That's the route I'll go , assuming the temp sensor tests OK it's $137!!! not sure I'll invest that much? Thanks again for all your help.
 
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