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Pulling the 199 4.3

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walldiver7

New member
Ok, time to pull this 4.3 and replace it (because of a cracked block).

Can anyone give me the details of pulling the engine.

1999 Bayliner
4.3L Vortec LX (Throttle body injected, not port injected)

I am assuming that I need to pull the drive first, then start pulling the accessories (power steering pump, alternator, etc).

Exhaust manifolds next?

Then disconnect the wiring harness plug.

And ...... then???

And of course, who would you deal with to buy a new engine? I have verified that the exhaust manifolds are not cracked.. I don't know about the intake manifold yet. Water pump is good. Fly wheel and starter are good.
Thanks for the help.
 
Re: Pulling the 4.3

I am assuming that I need to pull the drive first, then start pulling the accessories (power steering pump, alternator, etc).

Some boats, if you have the room you can remove engine without pulling the drive. but usually put the shifter in forward (full throttle not needed) then remove the 6 bolts and pull.


Exhaust manifolds next? Only need to remove/loosen the clamps, and work a screwdriver or other non-cutting utensil around the exhaust boot, to free it up.. if you dont have vertical room then may as well remove the manifolds.. have to come off sooner or later.

Then disconnect the wiring harness plug. yup, and starter wires, trim limit/sender ( 2 pair of black wires ), remove the grounds from the back of the engine, remove/discon the battery ( before doing anything really )

And ...... then??? discon the water hose from the thermostat housing, remove the 2 pins from the back of the engine 3/4" short socket, maybe a breaker bar. or nice long 1/2" drive rachet, unbolt the engine mounts from the boat side (usually easier than the engine side) remove the PS Pump and lines ( watch out it will leak ), disconnect fuel line from fuel pump..


And of course, who would you deal with to buy a new engine? There are a few good deals out there, from Short block to long block, to complete drop in depends on how much $$$ you want to spend and how much you want to paint.. .. dont forget 6 cans of Mercruiser Black..

I have verified that the exhaust manifolds are not cracked.. Just cause they aren't leaking doesn't mean there not cracked. Visual(for rust trails) and HOT Pressure testing is best.. can be an internal crack you wont see till they get HOT and the metal separates and you start injesting water while @ 4000 rpms.. get a miss here and there.. next thing you know your bending connecting rods or worse.

I don't know about the intake manifold yet. Water pump is good. Fly wheel and starter are good.
Thanks for the help.

When you get the manifolds off, have a good look at the bottom area on the block side.

Intake doesn't usually crack, block & heads (sometimes) depends on how much water was in it.


Good Luck. In Mass.. I like Atlantic Engine Builders in Lynn MA. they wholesale & Retail engines from many manufacturers.

But you may find better deals.
 
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