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Proper pitch prop

Jim Allain

New member
I have a 90hp efi 4 stroke on an 18 1/2 foot bass tracker aluminum boat. I'm running a 13.25 by 19 pitch 3 blade standard prop and I am having a tough time getting up on plane, the bow stays up for some distance. I have 3 batteries in the back and the gas tank so there is sometimes quite a bit of weight back there. When I do get going I top out at about 42 mph at about 5100 rpm when I can get on proper plane. Would a 17p help me out here or what would you suggest?
 
A lower pitched propeller may very well help you to get on plane much quicker and it should help the life of the motor.

Question now is, will dropping 2 inches of pitch be enough. Mercury says to prop the motor so that the motor will run in the upper half of the RPM range (above 5500 RPM) with the boat loaded. In the conditions in which you are most likely to be using the motor. Think summer time. Hot and humid. Motor trimmed up only to the point where the steering effort left and right is the same.

Unfortunately it takes trial and error when choosing a propeller. Can get expensive.

Another point. The rule of thumb when it comes to the affect of pitch changes on WOT RPM, is that it is based on using the same type and brand of propeller. Only the pitch being changed. If you go to a different propeller type (say aluminium to stainless) all bets are off and to what the results may be.
 
If you are running the OEM prop, you have your work cut out for you. You have a load in the stern and the only way to get that up (besides engine trim positions) is to get some thrust out of the prop. What you are describing is that the prop has too much pitch for a properly executed "hole shot". You seem to be fine on the top end with your 19P. Basically you need 2 props in one.....one with less pitch so the engine RPMs can get up faster, shortening the hole shot time, and the one you have for top end performance.

Enter the "ported" prop....holes in the barrel, usually 3, one for each blade. The ports let exhaust gasses flow across the blades reducing the density of the medium in which the prop is trying to turn. By introducing air (engine exhaust) across the blades you decrease the density of that medium and the RPMs can get up faster and with the prop turning faster, you will come out of the hole faster....once you fine tune your trim for the best hole shot....trial and error on trim position. Once up to speed....20 MPH for a number, the new water, water pressure entering the blades, seals off the ports and they no longer function as you don't want to use them at speed.

Only aluminum prop of which I am aware is the Turning Point (Brand) "Hustler". It's an aluminum prop with special aluminum and processing to reduce the tendency for the blades to deform under high thrust loads. Blades can't be as thin as with SS (helps top end speed) but they due process their aluminum to resist any deflecting. All of mine (currently have 4) are ported and have blade tip "Cupping" for better grip in high trim angles and in turns, and have a high "Rake" factor....the blades don't come straight out from the root at the barrel, they lay back providing better grip on top end and in certain water conditions.

The good news is that being aluminum, they are priced where experimenting won't cost you an arm and a leg. Easily obtained...just plug the name into a www search engine.

The cupping is said to act like 1" of increased pitch so that "may" drop your RPMs below the half way point on recommended RPM range at top end.....may not. The Rake will improve grip on top end in addition to providing improved bow lift at speed, so that too may, probably will impact top end RPMs too. With any prop on any boat with any engine, the only REAL answer is to run it!
Note: The Rake improving bow lift isn't to be compared to the hole shot. Rake is for the high speed end of the boat's performance.....hull drag caused by it touching the water is the main thing that slows you down at speed. Rake helps to raise the bow just a few degrees but that can make several MPHs improvement in top end....may offset the effect of cupping loading your engine, slightly reducing top end RPMs......giving them back to you if you decide to go with the TP 19P.

Tossing my hat into the ring, which I have done many times over my 50+ years of boating, for around a hundred bucks (may be...probably... higher since I last bought one but a lot cheaper than SS....for a little less performance) I would go ahead and start with the 17P in the 13" diameter range of props that fit that lower unit. No doubt once you tweak your trim for optimum, you will experience an eye awakening with your new hole shot! With the other improvements in the Hustler, the 17P will surely put your RPMs where you want them on the top end....with a little luck, you won't loose any top end speed.....with the correct trim....once you figure that out.

Good Luck and happy boating!
 
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Thank you Funny you should mention the hole in the prop trick as I was working on my engine in the driveway and a snowbird outboard repair shop owner from Canada happened to walk by and he mentioned the same thing but he said to just drill a small hole in my current prop and told me where to put it. I'm not going to do that though I'm just going to try a 17p first.
 
How can he be fine at WOT if the propeller is not allowing the motor to reach the objective RPM?

Assuming the motor makes its rated HP at or about 5500 RPM then there is the likelihood that he will have a higher WOT speed with a lower pitched propeller. Motor will be providing more power to the propeller. More HP translates to more thrust. As well as better hole shot.
 
How can he be fine at WOT if the propeller is not allowing the motor to reach the objective RPM?

Assuming the motor makes its rated HP at or about 5500 RPM then there is the likelihood that he will have a higher WOT speed with a lower pitched propeller. Motor will be providing more power to the propeller. More HP translates to more thrust. As well as better hole shot.
A 19" prop with zero slip turning 5100 RPM moves forward 96,900 inches per minute. (5100x19)
A 17" prop with zero slip turning 5500 RPM moves forward 93,500 inches per minute. (5500x17)
As long as the engine RPM is in the upper half of the recommended RPM max range, he should be good to go.
The 19" ported prop will tend to act like the 17" in the hole shot but get the top end of the 19....considering identical props from the same mfgr. with nothing changed but the pitch and the operator performing the same trimming routine.
 
Propellers do not screw their way forward in water. Propellers convert horse power into thrust. Thrust goes aft. Boat goes forward.
 
Thank you for all of the info. I'm going to start out just trying a straight old 17p prop and go from there after trying it. If I get a better hole shot and up to plane faster then problem solved.
 
Propellers do not screw their way forward in water. Propellers convert horse power into thrust. Thrust goes aft. Boat goes forward.
What's your point? HP is what turns the prop shaft. The prop shaft turns the prop. In a solid medium theoretically, the turning prop would move forward the amount of the prop pitch regardless of the "work" that's performed. In water there is a "slip" number to be addressed as the water is a liquid. My simple arithmetic included the comment "excluding slip".
On your comment about props don't screw their way forward in water.....what do they do, screw it backwards??????? Well as we all (except you)...I think the rest of us know, in Reverse gear it does just that.
 
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A screw in a bolt or a threaded component will move forward or backwards by X" for every turn of the screw. A propeller in a solid medium is not going to be moving anywhere.

In reverse a propeller does not screw its way backwards. The propeller creates thrust by moving water forward which tends to move the boat, the motor and the propeller backwards.

Newton's third law of motion.

Think of a rocket motor. No propeller. Thrust in one direction. Movement of the rocket in the opposite direction.
 
"https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=newton's+third+law+of+motion&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8"

Now that we have that out of the way....."A propeller in a solid medium is not going to be moving anywhere." Obviously, but the theory is that if it were possible, as a screw in wood, it would move a certain distance per revolution based upon its pitch. But propellers in water are affected by the water not being a solid so there is a "loss factor" that detracts from that theoretical distance referred to as "slip". Performance charts include a column for adding certain amounts of "slip" to the theoretical calculations and the outcome of varying amounts of it. Heavy boats with non "performance" props have a lot of it. Bass Boats with "performance" props have little of it, both results obviously have to include the "drag" caused by the shape of the hull and amount of hull touching the water's surface.

With that out of the way, we could talk about "thrust". But we aren't talking about thrust here!
 
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