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Prop replacement

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nakita

New member
"good morning, late 80s Model

"good morning, late 80s Model 1150 im putting a new prop on on it, it looks pretty strait forward anything i should be aware of?"
 
"Hi there,

Make sure you ha

"Hi there,

Make sure you have the correct prop to start off with...

Lube the shaft before installing. There should be a lock washer to prevent nut spinning off.

Some props needs a spacer or washer.

Not much from here...


Regards!

Benjamin."
 
"prop issues lower the pitch n

"prop issues lower the pitch number better the holeshot is that right, and higher the rpms"
 
"if there is any chance the pr

"if there is any chance the prop will hit something go with aluminum. Stainless holds its pitch better at high rpm, with a thinner blade profile. Less flexing, less forgiving on lower units"
 
"Stainless steel propellers pr

"Stainless steel propellers provide better mileage than aluminum propellers, possibly more than a composite, depending on blade foil design


The stainless steel propeller provides more speed, but in your horsepower/size/RPM range, only 2 - 3 MPH more


Stainless is tougher, no doubt about it."
 
"All that info was excellent,

"All that info was excellent, i read this forum everyday, you guys really know what you are talking about, needless to say help save us novices a little money in the long run so thank you"
 
I would think that the conside

I would think that the considerably greater weight of a stainless prop would cause alot more wear on the shifting mechanism...does anyone know if this is a significant factor???
 
"No ,as you shift into gear at

"No ,as you shift into gear at a low rpm.Stainless is a better material to repair if you ding it .id go stainless"
 
"Mind if I jump in [img][/img]

"Mind if I jump in


If you are going to run mostly in deeper water and you don't mind spending the bucks, overall it's tough to beat stainless for quality/durability and performance of the prop itself. It will flex less than other prop allowing the motor to "dig in" better.

However, if you do hit bottom you could be in for a double whammy. Because it's less forgiving you can do more severe/more expensive damage to both the prop and your lower unit. If stainless is excessively damaged it's cheaper to replace than repair..

Also, there is rarely 1 prop that will suit all your needs throughout the entire boating season. Once you start getting into the higher horsepowers you should have more than one prop.

If you match the prop to your rig in the spring, then in the middle of the summer when the air is hot an humid, your motor will be losing about 10-15% of it's horsepower through reduced RPM's. If your top end rpms fall out of your WOT range you place the motor in danger of damage due to detonation etc. If you match it the other way around, then in the spring and fall you are in danger of over-revving and damaging the motor.

So realistically you should have 1 prop for spring/fall and one for the summer months - of different "pitches" - usually up to 2-3" less for the summer months.

And that doesn't even factor in multi-use of the boat - 3 blade for tooling around, 4 blade cupped for pulling a tube or cruising restricted speed zones etc.

Personally I would think it would be easier on the pocket book to invest in two "good" aluminums as opposed to 1 stainless, and there are companies out there that produce good aluminum props. But if you have the money, go with stainless for all your needs.

I run 4 different props, depending on the "use of the day/season" and my 4 good quality aluminums from Solas combined cost less than one 1 quality stainless....

My 2 cents..."
 
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