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problem with my AQ250 going into reverse

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pjt340

New member
This is a continuation of a problem I had last year and I previously posted. This boat had sat for 30 yrs before I purchased it. last year it would not go into forward or reverse without difficulty. I since discovered that the oil I was using in the outdrive was semi-synthetic(Volvo shop manual says to use same as engine oil). Last week, I flushed the drive with tranny fluid and refilled with 30 wt oil. It now will go into forward easy enough but not reverse. Could this be a adjustment problem? If so where might that be? Any and all help is much appreciated.
 
See post #9 in your other thread.

If you can't create friction between the sliding sleeve and reverse gear cup, you'll need to do what's mentioned in that post.

FYI: people ship these drives to me for this type of repair. Even with shipping, it can be cost effective.


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Rick, sorry did not clarify. It will go into reverse it just takes a moment . Sort of like forward was when I had semi-synthetic oil in it. Is there any adjustment that it may be? thx
 
pjt340 said:
Rick, sorry did not clarify. It will go into reverse it just takes a moment . Sort of like forward was when I had semi-synthetic oil in it. Is there any adjustment that it may be? thx
Click to expand...
I agree with Gary.
Short of the cable not fully traveling far enough, there is no adjustment.

Make sure that any "over-travel" with the cable/linkage/etc, is divided equally.
IOW, generally the travel is greater than what's needed for the shift shoe, so just make sure that the over-travel is the same in each direction.

Since you mention that is does engage, but slowly, I too agree with lappping the cups and sleeve.

In order to do this, the main drive gear and bearing box need to be removed. The tricky part is removing the four clamping collar bolts.
On the 250 transmission, these are wet area bolt threads, and may be corroded.

Use heat on the main gear case at the thread inserts, or you'll risk rounding out the hex sockets.
If the hex sockets strip out, you'll be taking this to a machinist for a milling machine process.


I've never put together a video for this, but here's a DIY'r that does fairly well at it.
I must admit, it's pretty well done for a "First Timer".

FYI:
At 9:58 into the video is the most critical part.... I.E., removing the four clamping collar bolts and using heat.
Heat is your friend here! Do not even attempt this without heating the main gear case!
If we strip out the hex sockets on any of these four cap screws, the next step is a machinist's
milling machine.

At 13:36, he discovers the bearing box collar shims..... which are also very critical that they go back as they were.

At 15:44 is another critical step. This gets us into the seal surface washer, of which has shims just inside of it.
These control the bearing box rolling torque value.

At around 18 minutes in, this is when we should press the main drive gear out, and take a look at the Bearing Box bearings.


With exception to a seal surface washer change out, no shim value change is necessary if we keep track of all shims during disassembly and re-assembly.

BTW, the 250 main drive gear seal is unique to the 200 and 250.
All else regarding O-rings and top cover gasket are the same.

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................................

Here's what you're after.
This is an image of the two driven gears, vertical shaft and brass sliding sleeve. (not a 250, but similar)
These will be removed from the gear case seperately.







When you get into this deep, you'll see the gear cups.


Here's a driven gear cup.
These two cups mirror the conical surfaces of the brass sliding sleeve.

As you can see, this one is glazed.




Here's a brass sliding sleeve.
Red arrow points to the steep spiral cut splines. These steep cut splines are what causes the sleeve to lock-up into the cup with friction.
We want and need this friction in order to cause the steep cut spiral splines to further pull the non-rotating sleeve into the selected rotating gear cup.
Once we obtain what I'll call "lock-up", the sleeve and cup will rotate 1:1 with each other, and we have full gear engagement.

Green arrow points to the split ring keeper.... that should be replaced by now.




BTW, all it takes is a small amount of metallic debris (in the oiling grooves) to cause the sleeve to NOT lock up with the cup.
This debris can glaze the cups.
So make sure that all of the oiling grooves are clean also.


BTW #2 ..... no where in the OEM service manual will it suggest or show details on this lapping procedure.
I can tell you first hand that it does work with the brass sliding sleeves and shiny steel gear cups.

(does not work with the later model steel sleeves and coated gear cups)




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Can't stress enough about stripping those four allen headed bolts holding the clamp ring. Your life will be miserable if they strip. Heat is REALLY your freind and I found many years ago the salt builds in the clamp ring area also. The bolts go thru the aluminum clamp ring quite a ways and the salt gets between them and the aluminum. This makes for a very tight bolt so use heat on the clamp ring also. Be careful with the heat but it MUST be used.
 
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