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Problem with 6.0L

Tomnrenee

New member
Ok

I left for duty overseas and left my boat behind winterized. 3years later im back and i find out tanks never got pumped. Started my crusader 2006 6.0L with water in gas. After complete pumping of both fuel tanks and new filters engine wont get much above idle. It sounds like its not running on all cylinders. On the hose it sounds much better.

1. Should the injectors and fuel rail be pulled rebuit/replaced?

2. Could i have blown the rings?

3. Does anyone know a good mechanic in south florida?

Pisser is the engine only has 136 hrs.

Any advice is appreciated.

Tom
 
I'm not familiar with a Crusader 6.0L. Is this a typo by chance?

How was the engine winterized?
Had the fuel been stabilized, and had the engine been run to bring in an oil enriched fuel mixture just prior to shut down?

If properly winterized, the water will have just now been introduced into the fuel system............ in which case you may need to purge it only.


.
 
I'm not familiar with a Crusader 6.0L. Is this a typo by chance?

How was the engine winterized?
Had the fuel been stabilized, and had the engine been run to bring in an oil enriched fuel mixture just prior to shut down?

If properly winterized, the water will have just now been introduced into the fuel system............ in which case you may need to purge it only.


.

I wasnt present when the marina winterized the motor. They were suppose to pump the fuel out of the tanks they missed one tank.

It is a 6.0L engine.

Tom
 
Tom, whether the fuel tanks were drained or not, the FI system should have been stabilized since we don't "Fog" an FI engine in the same way that a carbureted engine would be fogged.
Instead, an oil enriched fuel mixture is brought into the FI system just prior to shut down.
The cylinders do not actually become "fogged", IMO.

In theory, what occured in the fuel tanks afterwards should have no bearing on the actual FI system, until it is operated again.
IOW, if any water has been introduced into the FI system, it would have been very recent..... correct????
I'm guessing that the system now must be purged of any water contaminated fuel.


Do you have the work scope receipt for the winterizing work?
If you specifically ask that the fuel tanks be drained, and if the work scope reflects this, then hold their feet to the fire and have them correct the problem!


BTW, 6 liter converts to 366.142 cu in.
I should know this, but which 2006 Crusader engine is 366 cu in?????


.
 
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I'm not familiar with a Crusader 6.0L. Is this a typo by chance?

How was the engine winterized?
Had the fuel been stabilized, and had the engine been run to bring in an oil enriched fuel mixture just prior to shut down?

If properly winterized, the water will have just now been introduced into the fuel system............ in which case you may need to purge it only.


.
I went back to them and they refunded me that portion of bill. I started it and ran it before i knew the old fuel was still in there. It sat for three years with the fuel. Im military and was transfered to south florida. So i am guessing i introduced the bad fuel into the injectors. I put it in the water and it wont rev much past idle and it sounds ruff. I had the tanks drained and added new fuel. I havent pulled the injectors but read if water enters system you need to remove injectors and have them rebuilt/cleaned.
 
Check out crusader website they have 6.0L. I saw it while in Iraq and decided to have it installed when i returned. Had no problems until now but its not good to sit an engine for long periods. I figured winterizing it i might have been ok.
 
Check out crusader website they have 6.0L. I saw it while in Iraq and decided to have it installed when i returned. Had no problems until now but its not good to sit an engine for long periods. I figured winterizing it i might have been ok.
And it should have been OK, had it been done correctly.

An engine that has been properly put into a "storing" condition, should be good for several years.
There are chemicals that are added to the fuel for this purpose.
Typically the fuel filter cartridge is drained, and then re-filled with a correct mixture.
The engine is then operated bringing this enriched mixture into the FI system, and is then shut down.

Does your invoice reflect this work scope?

I guess what I'm saying is........ when this shop winterizes an engine, is it good for only one winter, or would it be good for several winters?



Apparently the 6.0L is the next generation small block GM engine.
Very nice!


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The whole fuel system should be purged...if the bad fuel was in the rail for 3 years or so, it could have damaged the injectors as well as the fuel pump components.

I'd say you want to run a compression test (at a minimum) or, preferably, a leak down test to verify the engine is in decent shape before going any further...if the internals are ok, I'd then move onto the fuel system.

Since you have fresh fuel in the tanks, I'd pull the injectors and have them tested as a shop ... once they are known to be good, you'll want to verify the fuel pressure is adequate.
 
Thank you for your service, and I'm really sorry you're having so many problems. It's a shame you fired the motors up on that old fuel, but too late now. What's happened to the fuel in the tanks is that the ethanol has formed a third liquid (see photo) that will not burn (and no known additive will fix it. Note that this 'white gook' is heavier than the gas, so it settles in the absolute bottom of the tank and is hard to get ALL of it out.) So, the entire fuel system will need to be thoroughly cleaned out.

Good luck!

Jeff
 

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I left for duty overseas and left my boat behind winterized. 3years later im back

The whole fuel system should be purged... if the bad fuel was in the rail for 3 years or so, it could have damaged the injectors as well as the fuel pump components.
Mark, if I read Tom correctly, the engine was professionally winterized.
In true terms, this would mean that stabilized fuel would have been introduced into the FI system.
If the engine had not been fired up for three years, his pump and rail system would have only recently seen this bad fuel.
IOW, the bad fuel in the fuel tank would have just been there.... not yet in his FI system until he tried to fire it up.

Tom, this is why you need to get a full understanding of just what this shop did to "winterize" your engine.
Look at your work scope. If you no longer have it, ask the shop for of a copy of it.
We've been in the computer age for what..... at least four years now? :rolleyes:
If they don't have a copy, shame on them!

If no records, perhaps have an unrelated party call them and ask them what their protocal for winterizing this particular engine would be.

If what you asked to be done, was NOT done, then there may be culpability on the shop's behalf, in which case they need to make this right with you, and on THEIR Dime.... not on YOUR Dime.
IMO that is!


.
 
My view is based on what was posted...if they agreed to drain the fuel tanks (modern OEM recommendation) and they missed one, I'll let the readers determine if "professional" applies to the job that was done.

Based on the time frame given, I'd expect any warranty period on the work done has expired. The shop may be willing to rectify the situation or they may not.

I'd still suggest checking the engine's condition and, if ok, moving on to the fuel system...the scenario Jeff alluded to is very likely.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I broke out the book and pulled the injectors. Visually three of them looked clogged. Had a shop clean and test. Shop said two of the injectors were completely clogged. Put them in the boat, fired it up and it ran well. Sounded and ran well but it wouldn't tach out past 4000 RPM. It should tach to 5000-5200. I will check the tach with my computer and see if its off. I did check compression before I went pulled the injectors and it checked out fine, what a relief.
 
Tom, I understand the time frame and warrantee thing. However, this engine was put away and was not operated since this work had been done.
Was this a 1 winter protection service......, or was this winterizing intended to protect the engine for longer than 1 winter?

This is why I suggested looking carefully at the work scope definition. See what was included, see what was "excluded" (if anything) and move forward from there.
You paid for some form of protection, so let's define that "protection" and take it from there.
(see my previous post again)

Otherwise, you may as well plan to spend your own money correcting the issue now.



Let's put it another way, hypothetically!
Let's say that you returned to your boat only to find a cracked blocked due to the block NOT being properly drained of all sea water.
Sure, the work was done 3 years ago, but the boat had not been used since.
I'd think that the non-use should certainly carry some weight here!
What would your take now be? Would you hold their feet to the fire? Or would you just roll over?


Tom, I have no dog in any fight here.... I'm just being the Devil's Advocate!
I'm in your corner. :D


I have a request of you.
Would you post the work scope for us so that we can read what all was included and/or excluded?


*************************************

Edit:
Now.... if this is NOT about responsibility, and if you are planning to pay for this work regardless, then my post becomes entirely moot.




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Danger! Danger! My weak engine was caused by partially clogged injectors. This caused a lean burn, caused overheat on an exhaust valve, caused a burned valve and then the engine really got weaker! Completely clogged = lack of power, but no permanent damage. Partially clogged = some power loss but high temp burn = do it too long and you have a burnt valve = no compression = pull the head. If you have had fuel problems (you have) and if you still have power reduction (you do) you should be very careful about sustained operation until you are really sure what is going on. Whatever clogged them the first time may have done it again.
CaboJohn
 
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