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Powerpack vs stator

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Doug Price

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" 1978 75hp Johnson- Motor shu

" 1978 75hp Johnson- Motor shut off in use. No spark at plugs. I believe I have narrowed problem down to either stator or powerpack. I disconnected the brown wire and the brown/orange wire from pack. Using voltmeter, I read 150 vac with leads on the two wires while cranking. From either wire to ground I read about 50vac. Question is, am I checking the stator the correct way? And if so, is the stator suppose to put out 300vac instead of 150vac? Or is the problem the powerpack? "
 
"Doug..... First, remove the s

"Doug..... First, remove the spark plugs and rig up a spark tester so that you can set a 7/16" gap. Disconnect the RED main electrical connector at the engine. Crank the engine over via a small jumper wire from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the 3/8" terminal on that solenoid which will energize the solenoid and starter..... not the 3/8" ground terminal nut.

If you now have spark, in all probability the ignition switch has shorted out and in which case will require replacing.

If still no spark, I would assume that the powerpack has failed which would kill the engine just as if you turned the key off.

The stator could of course have failed, but that item usually gives you fair warning in the way of providing a strong ignition system (spark) when cold but as the engine warms up, the ignition would be erratic and weak.... once the engine cools off, the faulty stator would come back to life and that cycle would repeat itself for quite some time before it failed completely.

Let us know what you find.

Joe
"
 
" Thanks for the quick reply.

" Thanks for the quick reply.
Joe, I had the RED connector disconnected and plugs removed while testing by jumping the soleniod. Question is, while checking with the meter, should I have more than 150vac on the brown and brown/orange wires while cranking, with the wires disconnected from the pack? And I didn't even get that reading if the wires were still connected to the pack.

Doug "
 
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