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Power trim override issue?

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George.campbell

New member
I got towed in the other night because the engine wouldn’t start. I had to use the manual override screw on the trim to trailer the boat (same problem knocked out the trim power). I’ve since solved the power issue but the trim won’t drive up or down. The piston sounds like it’s driving both directions, it’s just not moving either way. I’m open to suggestions?!? You’re not going to hurt my feelings.
 
The screw is tight. I haven’t checked the level since I used the override. I’ll have to override it again to get the motor up to check the fluid. Isn’t the fluid system still sealed even when you override it?
 
George.campbell said:
The screw is tight. I haven’t checked the level since I used the override. I’ll have to override it again to get the motor up to check the fluid. Isn’t the fluid system still sealed even when you override it?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it could (and usually does if a seal fails) be leaking while the rig is underway... with the clue being washed away by waters force.
 
The fluid is full. The trim motor will drive the trim rods out full length, but the engine doesn’t move. I’m able to push the trim rods back with my hand, with the override screw all the way in.

A friend told me that you’re not supposed to run the override screw out very far or it will cause damage. Is this true? I know I ran the screw out to it’s stops.

Any thoughts? I’m a hydraulic idiot, apparently.
 
There is a circlip in there as a stop.----Remove that clip.------Remove the screw.----Inspect seals / O-rings.----Repair as needed.----Install and test.
 
George.campbell said:
The fluid is full. The trim motor will drive the trim rods out full length, but the engine doesn’t move. I’m able to push the trim rods back with my hand, with the override screw all the way in.

A friend told me that you’re not supposed to run the override screw out very far or it will cause damage. Is this true? I know I ran the screw out to it’s stops.
Click to expand...

Two turns out of the manual release valve is plenty. Running it all the way out is unnecessary and may run the valve's "O" Ring into a retaining Snap Ring which may cut the "O" Ring with a resulting leakage point.

Being able to push those trim rams in would normally be impossible unless the unit had a lot of air in it.
 
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