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Power loss

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"Hello i have a Sea Ray with t

"Hello i have a Sea Ray with twin 350 mercruisers late 80's both have been great all serviced, risers,manifolds,shift cables everything as we have gone. Now i have power loss on 1 motor it started at 1800 RPM and would go no further so called mechanics and they removed carbi and said yep dirty and all that so they put a new kit through it and cleaned it all.They put it back and off we went strait to 3100 RPM and same problem shuts down unless you back off then its fine.I called them and they removed it and did more then tried again. No good then again then again,800 dolla later no different! What do i do now? If you pump throttle 5 or so times at 3100RPM fast then flatten it she will go to full throttle and stay there just fine.All ignition fine no back fire comp all test fine,Done filters they have done this and that to carbie,Not sure where to turn from here.I guess they just have no idea!!What can i try and check myself,i feel im getting no where and im very frustrated. H E L P Please!!!!!!!!!!!!"
 
"Welcome John:

"If you


"Welcome John:

"If you pump throttle 5 or so times at 3100 RPM fast then flatten it she will go to full throttle and stay there just fine"

I am thinking that your carb still has some issue. I would check your service tickets to see if they replaced the accellerator pump and float as part of the carb work. Assuming that they did those items, your choke plate and/or linkages may be binding. Is the choke opening all the way? If the flame arrestor was over tightened at some time, it may have distorted the top of the carb causing the choke to bind.

Examine the movement of the carb choke plate and throttle plate. When they o'rhauled the carb, they should have applied a few drops of light oil to the choke and throttle plates bushings and the linkages. If the accel. pump rod is adjustable; 3 holes to set it in the pump lever. Change the rod to the hole with the longest pump pull."
 
"Guy is on track but try the e

"Guy is on track but try the easiest thing first..
Look down throat of carb and observe how much fuel the accelerator pumps thru the venturi. Disconnect the throttle cable and operate throttle by hand. You should see fuel squirt thru the full stroke of the throttle. You should see two jets of fuel, one on each primary bore.
For $800, the pump should have been replaced and installe correctly. If pump quits squirting part way thru throttle stroke, tell them about it and ask for either pump rod adjustment or pump replacement, should be no charge, their error?"
 
"Thank you both very much im g

"Thank you both very much im going to go to the boat first thing in the morning and check.I have checked for water in filters and i also put a nut on the flame arrestor thread first,screwed all the way down so as to make sure that the top didn't or wasn't bent and interfering with the butterfly's.I think at one stage they talked about primary and secondary settings but not to sure!.I sent the mechanics an email yesterday about it but have heard nothing {surprise surprise}.I am also pulling the boat out in the morning because one motor wont go into reverse.I have put all the new cables,switches,damper arm and cables to legs.I think its either the gear box its self or something else in the leg.Im having a bad run!!The other motor and gear-shift is fine and this one was fantastic as well,I tried all the settings to make sure shut down switch was working but i have run out of adjusting thread on cable,so i guess i need to start the other end.Any tips on that??? As i said thanx heaps for responding and your help its great. Down here were we are i didn't have many options left to me beside hollowing for help, Thanx heaps. {Fingers crossed we can sort it out} Cheers."
 
Hello i have checked the carbi

Hello i have checked the carbie and some of the things you said.When i removed the flame arrestor i noted that the second set of butterfly's in the bigger bore area were locked open.It was catching on the leaver that operates it and i would say that connects to a vaccume type set up?? would that be right? Would that cause the problem that i have??? I have fixed it but not tried it on the water.The boat is out of the water so as i can try and work out what is wrong with reverse.I think the boat new it was going to be hauled out because when i was sitting in the water waiting for the lift machine the gears were working perfectly.Then it would just play up again and not slide into reverse.Any ideas??? I hope the carbie is what i found what are my chances of it being that simple. Cheers.
 
"Apparently you found the prob

"Apparently you found the problem with the vacuum operated secondary. If it still doesn't run right, the vacuum plunger may have a hole in its diaphragm.

When shifting, always use a QUICK shift and not a SLIDE shift. Lower cable may be worn out."
 
Hello Guy.So you believe that

Hello Guy.So you believe that my power loss and fault would be due to the bigger barrels staying open?. The shift cables are all brand new from levers to motors and from motors to legs.I have also had the new damper slides put on both motor shift mounts.The gears were perfect but all of a sudden wont go into reverse just gives the clicking sound of the gears not engaging. I tried all the adjustments on the cables to no avail.I sat out side the haul out facility and it was going in and out of gear perfectly for about 10 times then played up again.What do i do with that??? Thanks for your help.
 
Boys...feel free to jump in on

Boys...feel free to jump in on this one. Shift cable is not my thing. The only thing I can say is to follow the manual adjustment procedures. Check the OD oil level.

The secondaries should only open when your throttle is calling for more power and wide open.
 
"About the shifting issue. You

"About the shifting issue. You say there are new cables..
Take a look at the underside of your shift lever at the helm. There may be something loose there. Mine has a tab that the cable is fastened to and that tab is held tight by a small screw that likes to get loose which lets that tab move while trying to move the shift cable and cause shift problem.
Also the difference between shifting from Neutral to Forward and Reverse smoothly can be as slight as a half turn of the cable adjustment at the engine and added to that, too high of idle could be part of the issue. Make sure all the pivot points on the shift assy on the engine are lubed and moving freely.
So.. If you can shift in one gear and not the either, determine what direction the cable has to move to get into gear and give it ONE turn in that directon and give it a try with SLOW shifts."
 
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